35 Days - Mission Impossible

Approx 4weeks, 35 days between my two races I decided it was time to swap the motor, install a bigger turbo, custom 3" exhaust, breakin and get it tuned.  A proper tune is out the door as the tuner is overseas :(

How does one remove a jammed solenoid, you use a slide hammer. Causing some damage to the soft ally.





When I say 35days, realistically its 4 weekends, minus a few weekend days as I work other jobs + M-F I'm at work.
I'm hoping the exhaust is still an option, the flex pipe is completely gone.  The exhaust guy will try slot me in when it is up and running.







A road tune will have to suffice for the next track day, touch wood we can get all the bugs out.

So many little things to consider when swapping engines, like the clutch.  It didn't look too good.
I can't see it living much longer :(





The mivec solenoid had a lot of issues.  In the process of removing the oil balls the bore of the solenoid got damage. I needed to hone it out.  Something I didn't consider after the head was already on.
I have yet to know if this will cause any issues coming up.

The motor to go in.


Current setup with the old motor. Minus the hood. So it begins!

Slowly getting there.

The old vs. the new. Chibi workshop is looking a bit full.














My modified manifold doesn't have gaskets, so I will reuse my old one.


















My old turbo, 4yrs? TD04 for $150.
It still has a chipped exhaust wheel.









I needed some parts of my running motor to finish the forged motor. E.g. alternator, intake, throttle body, timing covers.









The magical workbench.


























I made a bracket to remove the crank pulley bolt, failed :( So I made a stronger one, not seen here.
It worked :)










 Relocating the oil sandwich plate.











 RRP pulleys I had on the shelf for a couple years.
Why? Because I can. I needed to order something big from RRP, so I added a few other items.








 

Rear main install is last, as it is blocked by the engine stand.











The fly wheel and its hot spots :(
The clutch disc










Ahhhh...Not enough material, I hit each pad with a diamond file to remove the glaze.

Moved the old clutch and fly to the new motor.

WA Sprint Championship - Overall Results - Round 7 - 20 September 2015 - Course: Big River - 4.35km

Okay! Last race before the new engine...I hope.

Having a few issues on the new block, mivec solenoid won't go in :(
And I might paint the block, undecided.

So this was the first time out with the bigger brakes.  I didn't even have a change to bed them in.
They went hard straight out the gate.
Pretty happy with them, so far no issues.  I did notice the pedal got mushy, but it still pulled up.
Maybe being bigger they were cooking the fluid?










I used the 8.5 with 225 up front and the 215 on the rear with a 10mm spacer.
The track was a lot warmer than normal, grip was back to a confident state.

400th Post - Stage 5 - Head Assembly - 6hrs

Head Assemble -
Torque M10 oversized head studs, clean deck, lube bores with ATF.
Clean head, install head gasket, install head studs, install head, lube threads with ARP lube.
Oversized valves +1mm, upgraded springs, titanium retainers.





/z27a-4g15-engine-re-assembly-torque.html


New timing belt, cam seals, stem seals, gaskets, timing gear, water pumps.

/stage-4-big-ends-pistons-and-rods-6hrs.html
/stage-3-measuring-ring-gapping-6hrs.html




/stage-2-block-cleaning-crank-install.html
/stage-1-block-cleaning-4hrs.html

Clean lifters:
/4g15-4g63-mitsubishi-lash-adjuster.html
/diesel-cleaning-bleeding-tappetslash.html










Cam seal installation.












Install valve train.











Install oil pickup and windage tray.
Next time I might look into a mesh based windage screen tray and baffle. The mesh forms a one way flow of oil.


















Ending up installing the head before the sump, not sure why. Stupid me. All together, tempted to pain the block.

Engine Coolant Temp Sensor - Adaptronic Hardware - AC Delco

So I found out that without the sharing board for the old 420 Adaptronic, the 440 seem to not read the temperature correctly.  As if the signal was halved.  OEM Temp gauge read a 1/4 and 440 saw 66deg max.









So I decided to add a separate sensor, but as usual nothing is easy.
28mm radiator pipe meant a required hunt for said adapter.
So then I had the adapter, the sensor didn't fit.  Needed to convert the 1/8NPT to M12.
Then to tear apart my sexy wiring loom and add another wire in.























This is a AC Delco calibration and M12 x 1.5mm thread.
I had to get the ADC values for the Adaptronic ECU.
I will get my data for the conversion.


























I'm still skeptical about the location, what happens if the thermo fails?
I will revisit the location at a later date.

Big Brakes Mean Bigger Wheels - 4pots and 320mm with some 225/45R16 AD08R

What happens when the Rota Grids 15x8+0 can't fit the 320mm discs? You go bigger.
To fit the 4pots I used 20mm spacer on some 16x8+33?  Enkei RS2 2pc.
I restored the wheels the best I could.







What happens when you don't want to trim your wheel studs? You recess holes in the rim.









Before










Before and after









Do I need brake line locks? I will do my best to make some brackets and lock the brake lines.  Annoyingly its a M7x1.00mm thread!
After 3 shops I found my M7 screws.














Why so shiny? I got bored. Decided to polish up the aluminium cast!
Took way too long. /rcolt-4pots-ucf30-rebuild-running-gear.html

















I like the 5mm clearance :) {above}



I wanted to use rolled pins to lock the bracket, but a threaded solution will be stronger.






















































I was surprised it torqued up. But yeh, I am happy with it. Bracket and bolt seem tight. Better than nothing anyways.

WA Sprint Championship - Overall Results - Round 6 - 23 August 2015 - Course: The Sideling - 4.95km

Ran the car without any changes from last time (round 5).  Didn't have time to look at it.

But I did try running the 215/45 up front on the 17x7.5 and the 225 on the 17x8.5 on the rear.

Hoping to increase the grip on the rear over the front to reduce snap oversteer.

I got the logs running so that I can workout an appropriate background knock table.

Still getting a lot of false knock.

My knock vs RPM table.