WA Sprint Championship Round 8 - 25/10/2015 - Oyster Cove - 5.08km

Time to play catchup.

In one month I installed a new motor, custom exhaust, larger turbo and broke it in.  I did this between the two race events.On the morning before the race we decided to do some tuning.  After an hour of tuning something let go, the car still sits but I don't have a good feeling.
Prior to something letting going the VF34 responded really well.  We tried cranking it and it sounded as if it had lost compression.


So we towed the Colt back, hopped into my mates car drove home and took the blue beast out.
I arrived 5mins before my lap was about to start, I was a bit scattered brained.  Can't remember what number I was but I jumped straight on after driving over 100km to get there.

Civic-ku! Besides blowing a 5km smoke screen it ran well.  Brakes were rough, but it was fun.
I added my Colt time from session 1 as a comparison, it still holds well.
/wa-sprint-championship-round-1-832015.html

EC5W Alternator Hunt - MD336781 -> A3TA4791 -> ARJ509 -> JayLec 65-6304

LYGF2 Super VR-4 TYPE-S, S5FA/T complectation
No PNC# OEM part number Required
per car Name Spec Notes Color Manufacture period Condition
1 14200A MD336781 01 ALTERNATOR ASSY 100A 1997.09.1 - 1998.01.3
2 14200A MD340951 01 ALTERNATOR ASSY 120A 1997.09.1 - 1998.01.3






























































Noticed the alternator is slightly larger.
I used a longer alternator bolt to pull the bush in. Uses a large rolled pin?

So after a battle of 14+ hrs the alternator is out.
I decided to take it out from above, little did I know what a pain it was going to be. Started off easy, un-mounting the alternator. Removed the rear timing belt cover Then it still wouldn't come out. Out came the alternator top mount bracket, but to pull that out the intake manifold support needed to come out. Then the exhaust shield was in the way, so it came out. Nope, it still didn't fit. Time to drop the front pipe and remove the rear dump. STILL DIDN'T FIT. Remove the dump pipe stud...5hrs later of welding, bending and stretching it. It came out! I ordered a local FTO alternator, but it came to my door...80amp Back it went to find another FTO re-manufacturer that doesn't a higher amp unit. I hope today or tomorrow my 110A arrives. In hindsight, maybe I should have just used the 80A sucker.

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http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/kounan_bt/40506985.html
Mitsubishi Regnum alternator I (Dynamo) rebuilt was completed.
MD340951 / A3TA5291　120A
Regnum EC5W 6A13
Galant EC5A 6A13
It is for the AT · 4WD · Turbo cold climate

Yubinbango232-0056
Yokohama, Kanagawa Prefecture, Minami-ku, Tori-machi 1-6
Konan battery Chamber of Commerce
TEL / FAX 045-714-4010
mail　kounan_bt@yahoo.co.jp
Yafuroko　http://locoplace.jp/t000226948/

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MITSUBISHI DE3A (FTO 93-96, 2.0LTR) - Maybe Others.
 A3TA1491 = JAS ARJ509 = MITSUBISHI MOTORS MD317515 = 80A
 COOL-DRIVE 65-6304 = JAYLEC 65-6304 = Nationwide Auto Parts ALT00184 = 110A

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14-748 Alternator 12V 120A Suits Mitsubishi Galant
Adjusting Hole Diameter: 9.5mm
Pulley Diameter: 59.0mm
Pullet Groove Number: 4rib

Suits:
Mitsubishi FTO 2.0i 125-132kW (09.1994 - 07.2000) 6A12
Mitsubishi FTO 2.0i 147kW (09.1994 - 07.2000) 6A12
Mitsubishi Galant VI 2.5 V6 24V EA5A 118kW (09.00 - 10.04) 160hp 2498cc 6A13
Mitsubishi Galant VI 2.5 V6 24V EA5A 120kW (09.96 - 09.00) 163hp 2498cc 6A13
Mitsubishi Galant VI Estate 2.5 V6 24V EA5W 118kW (09.00 - 10.03) 160hp 2498cc 6A13
Mitsubishi Galant VI Estate 2.5 V6 24V EA5W 120kW (09.96 - 09.00) 163hp 2498cc 6A13

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Mitsubishi legnum - EC5W 6A13 (Turbo) H8.8 ~ 13,500 yen
Product name
　NGK power cable
Power cable
Part No. 29M

SuperMirror
http://www.ganador.co.jp/i/s_mirror/mitubishi/mitubishi.htm

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Cross Interchange Parts
Factory Number = MD340951
ELSTOCK 28-2875
DRI 226.146.1202
LUCAS ELECTRICAL LRA01663
DA SILVA 030136
DA SILVA A030136
MITSUBISHI A3TA5291
BOSCH 0 986 045 591

Factory Number = md336781
MITSUBISHI A 003 T A4791
ASHUKI 1533-3505
DA SILVA A030136
BOSCH 0 986 JR0 934
ELSTOCK 28-2875
HELLA JA1519IR

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Alternator - http://www.vehiclepartsdatabase.com/:
For 6A13TT:
OEM MD336780 - NPS - M511I98
OEM MD336780 / MD336781 / MD336785 - BLUE PRINT ADC41139 / NIPPARTS 87 11768 01450 6

For: (2.5 V6 24V [ 1996 to 2000, [6A13], NA, 163BHP, FWD ])
OEM MD340951 / A3TA5291 - LUCAS ELECTRICAL 57 08279 06094 1 / LRA1663 (2.5 V6 24V [ 1996 to 2000, [6A13], NA, 163BHP, FWD ])

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Alternator
BOSCH - Ref: 0 986 045 591 (100A) - MITSUBISHI : MD336780 - MD305461 - A3TA1691 - A 3 T A4691 - A 003 T A4791 - A 003 T A4691

BOSCH - Ref: 0 986 JR0 934 - MITSUBISHI FTO Coupe 2.0 (1994 to 2001) from construction year 01/02/1997 to construction year 01/07/2000 Engine Code 6A12 (MIVEC)

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三菱　ＦＴＯ　ミラージュ　ランサー　ギャラン　レグナム　ダイナモ・オルタネーター　リビルト品
三菱品番：ＭＤ３３６７８０　三菱品番：Ａ３ＴＡ４６９１　１２Ｖ　８５Ａ
★☆★上記品番のダイナモが返却出来ない場合は販売出来ません★☆★

■車名／車両型式／エンジン■

ＦＴＯ／ＤＥ３Ａ／６Ａ１２
ミラージュ・ランサー／ＣＫ６Ａ／６Ａ１１　　　
ギャラン（ＶＲ－４）／ＥＣ５Ａ（ＭＴ）／６Ａ１３（ターボ）
レグナム／ＥＡ５Ｗ／６Ａ１３（ＮＡ）　　　
レグナム（ＶＲ－４）／ＥＣ５Ｗ（ＭＴ）／６Ａ１３（ターボ）　　　
レグナム／ＥＡ４Ｗ／６Ａ１２（ＮＡ）　　
レグナム／ＥＣ４Ｗ（４ＷＤ）／６Ａ１２（ＮＡ）　　　
レグナム／ＥＣ５Ｗ（４ＷＤ）／６Ａ１３（ＮＡ）

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ＭＤ３３６７８０ (85Amp, DE3A) Replaced by MD336781 (100Amp, 6A13TT)
You also have the MD340951 (120Amp, 6A13TT)
Both MD336781 & MD340951 get listed on a VR-4.

MITSUBISHI MD336780 = BOSCH 0 986 045 591
MITSUBISHI MD340951
MITSUBISHI MD336781
 - Directr ELSTOCK 282873, LUCAS ELECTRICAL LRA01661,EUROTEC 12060206, DA SILVA A030136
 - Indirect MITSUBISHI A3TA4791, MD336780, A3TA4691, MD336785, A3TA5291, MD340951

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MITSUBISHI MD336781
Voltage [V] 14
Alternator Charge Current [A] 100
Diameter [mm] 121
Position / Degree re 25
Belt Pulley O [mm] 69
Fastening Type Double Pivot Lever

Cross numbers:
MITSUBISHI A003TA4691
MITSUBISHI A003TA4791

MITSUBISHI A3TA1691
MITSUBISHI A3TA4691
MITSUBISHI A3TA4791
MITSUBISHI MD305461
MITSUBISHI MD336780
MITSUBISHI MD336781
BOSCH 0986045591
FARCOM 119941
HELLA 8EL737774001
FRIESEN 9051553
HERTH+BUSS JAKOPARTS J5115053
HELLA JA1519IR

if you don't succeed try try again - garage sale!

OK. So now that I have another car! 3 and counting.
Funds are needed.
Plus I want the Colt screaming again.
So new pistons and more machine work is around the corner.
Plus if you doing it again. Why not do it better!




/jdm-hid-z27ag-conversion.html
/jdm-hid-z27ag-conversion-part-ii.html
/jdm-hid-z27ag-conversion-part-iii.html

Ok ... So I have, UR bars somewhere, Greddy ECU, JDM HID.
Maybe other stuff. Gotta do a clean up.
Oh a carbon fibre bonnet, like the OEM unit.
















I had to convert one set of JDM HID to ADM loom plug.








ADM headlight loom.




















Ok. So I wanted to show the other version of a JDM loom. See the extra 3 wires used for the auto leveling.

To mark the birth of Le Klaw Bleu - Forged Motor -> Demise

Part of the forged build budget was an exhaust.
I had a broken flex pipe for years, and finally had a chance to do something nice for the car.
I went from the dump which was a 2.5" setup into a stepped front pipe 2.5" -> 3".








Straight to the YR advance canon (my first purchase? I think).
I went with mild steel, I'm not fussed.  Its never going to rust (what people claim).
Rather save the money for something else.

The old canon flared to accept the 3"












Pure sex the front pipe.
Those are Murray clamps on the FMIC line.

3" flex.











My old front pipe, its had a hard life.

Andy gave it a quick polish.












Zero clearance issues, spot on work.

Love the tidy welds.

Why demise? Because something has happen to the custom valve train.
I have yet found courage to pull the head off :(

The Break-In - Start Up & 1000Km

I conducted the usual 20mins warm-up/breakin.
Allows me to check for leaks, cooling system is ok, oil pressures are ok etc.
The rpm is continually bounced throughout the 20mins.  Keeping it above 1500rpm.

All new fluids went in.
And I'm trying some of this Evans stuff.
I'm not convinced, but worth a shot.







Basically its an oil, rather than glycol.








I was also recommended Joe Gibbs oils.
They are expensive though :(
Due to the first 20mins being the most critical of the breakin, I used Joe Gibbs.










So it was ready for its first start.
Systems checked.


























Oil cooler disconnected to stop contamination.
Log book kms.

Clean turbo feed filter and radiator filter stocking.
As you may have noticed, I made it to 1000km of breakin :)
Started it at 97454km.  I did the 100km oil change and 500km oil change and 1000km full syn change.







Then all hell broke loose!
Lost compression after 10 x 200km/hr runs of boost tuning.