Tools & Percision Instruments

I finally decided to bite the bullet and buy some precision instruments. These will in turn aid my engine rebuild that i would like to do myself.
I have started of with purchasing some Mitutoyo Micrometers and a vernier http://www.mitutoyo.com.
I will soon add Starrett http://www.starrett.com telescopic gauge set or if i decide to get a cheaper set i will be looking at the Draper set.

Good Read:
/specialty-tools-for-performance-engine-building/
/connecting-rod-bolts-stretch-vs-torque/





More Details On The Build List
Engine Assembly
Pick List
/generic-servicing-tools.html

I have also been keeping an eye on a tap and die set. Hansen, Irwin or Kincrome not idea what to look. I ended up with a KCTools unit. Pretty nice. It has come in handy plenty of times so far :)

Vernier Caliper
Reading: /how_to_read_a_vernier_caliper.html
Video: Reading Metric Vernier


Micrometer
Reading: /reading_a_metric_outside_micrometer.html

Vernier Micrometer
I wish i could afford a vernier micrometer :(
/vernier_micrometer.html

Dial Indicator
Items from Mitutoyo: http://www.mitutoyo.co.jp/
Quick Guide: Quick Guide Dial-Indicators.pdf
Video: How to Use a Dial Indicator
Video: Measuring Runout

Dial Bore Indicator
I just got one of these. I will use snap/telescopic gauges to measure sub 50mm and 50mm-150mm i will use the dial bore gauge.
I have a set of micrometers from 0-100mm (4 micrometers complete this range)

http://www.farnell.com/

Fixed Probe Type:
1. Remove dial indicator from protective shroud.
2. Insert indicator stem into top of bore gauge.
3. Position indicator into bore gauge stem with one revolution of dial gauge hand. Use knurled thumbscrew on split clamp to
clamp indicator.
4. Select probe and shim washer to get nearest to required measurement size.
Example : Measurement size: 2.750 inches
Select probe 2.6 inches shims 0.1 and 0.05 = 2.75 inches
5. Fit shim washers behind datum flange on probe.
6. Remove knurled retaining nut from bore gauge foot and insert probe with shims.
Replace retaining nut and clamp probe positively.
7. At this stage it is necessary to offer the bore gauge to a setting master at the required nominal size.
This can be a ring gauge, caged gauge blocks with protruding end faces or a pre-set micrometer.
8. Insert bore gauge probes into the ring gauge or between the faces of the setting master.
9. Rock bore gauge in ring or between the setting master faces to achieve the reversal point of the indicator hand.
If this does not coincide with the zero on the dial, re-position dial gauge down bore gauge stem to achieve this position.
The final setting of zero can be made by rotating dial gauge bezel so that the zero coincides exactly with the reversal point at the
indicator hand.
Re-check in setting gauge.
Finally replace protective shroud and clamp firmly to top of bore gauge ste


Screwed Probe Type:
1. Remove dial indicator from protective shroud.
2. Insert indicator stem into top of bore gauge.
3. Position indicator into bore gauge stem with one revolution of dial gauge hand. Use thumbscrew on split clamp to clamp indicator.
4. Select a probe with a range which suits the required measurement size.
5. Fit knurled lock nut to probe.
6. Screw probe into bore gauge foot.
7. Select setting master (see previous instructions).
8. Insert bore gauge probes between setting master faces and adjust screwed probe to bring dial gauge hand to zero position.
9. Rock bore gauge probes in ring or between the setting master faces to achieve the reversal point of the dial indicator hand.
10. Fine adjust dial hand to zero by either adjusting screwed probe, moving dial indicator up or down in bore gauge and finally
revolving bezel to obtain final zero.
Taking Measurements:
1. Insert pre-set bore gauge into component hole.
2. Rock bore gauge in hole.
3. Note reversal point of dial guage hand.
4. Add or deduct the variance from zero to the setting master nominal size, to obtain the measured diameter of the component hole



Measurements
 My plan is to measure everything I can, I am planning to start with:
  Cylinder Heads & Valves: 
    - Gasket surface warp
    - Cylinder head overall height
    - Valve length
    - Valve spring free height
    - Valve stem-to-guide clearance
    - Valve guide length
    - Valve guide projection
            - i read that you can install valve guides with ether/alcohol and dry ice, if you don't have liquid nitrogen.
    - Valve projection from valve spring seat

  Pistons & Rings: 
    - Piston wrist pin diam/length
    - Piston wrist pin clearance
    - Wrist pin retainer
    - Piston diam

    - Top ring type / width / end gap
    - 2nd ring type / width / end gap
    - Oil ring type / gap

    - Desk height per piston (the amount the piston is above or below the desk - compression calcs)

  Rods: 
    - length
    - big end with/without bearing
    - small end
    - workout oil clearance
    - thrust clearance

  Crankshaft: 
    - end play
    - oil clearance at crankshaft journals

More Details On The Build List
Engine Assembly
Pick List

Other Handy Tools
Rotabroach
Rotabroach® Annular tools cut clean, burr-free, round holes fast, unlike twist drills that push or hole saws that tear thru materials. Because they're hollow, they cut around the edge of the hole, so less work is required and no deforming of material or jagged edges occur. Multiple cutting teeth are precision ground instead of stamped like hole saws, give long tool life.
/Rotabroach_Cutters/rota_cutters.html

Thread Restorer...............Rethreader............ Thread Chaser
NOTE: Tap and die sets are not the same as threadchasers


A Restorer is a 2 bladed tool that looks a lot like a big tap wrench. It's applied to a good point in the threaded rod, and turned along the bunged up thread pushing the metal back into place. It's useful on soft steels and brass threads, and totally useless on hard materials. In the hands of an amature it's a good way to insure nobody can fix it.

A rethreader is a tool that preforms the same function as a restorer, but does the job a bit differently. The rethreader is similar in appearance to a die, BUT, is ground to push threads back into place, rather than cut threads.

It's possible to make your own thread chaser by taking a bolt with the correct thread and cutting 3 or 4 vertical slots equidistant from each other on the length of the bolt threads. The depth of the cut should be down to just beyond the minor diameter of the thread.

Just to add a to this, make sure to use a grade 8 or better bolt! Also make sure the slots are evenly spaced and the threads are thoroughly de-burred after the slots are cut, use a soft bolt, poorly cut slots or fail to de-burr and it is very easy to get a home made thread chaser cross threaded in the hole.  It is a good idea with these home made chasers to run a proper sized nut onto the modified bolt several times using anti-seize before attempting to repair any damaged threads with it.

To repair spark plug threads just go to almost any auto parts and buy a spark plug chaser, it will be double ended with both common thread sizes. This thing is probably no harder than a grade 8 bolt and will not cut threads but with a little anti-seize applied will easily repair most Aluminum head spark plug threads as well as most cast iron heads.


A chaser is a cutting die that brings a rough cut thread or a plated thread back to dimension by cutting. Chasers are not designed to cut threads from raw stock, they have more teeth than a normal die has, so less clearance for chips to leave the die. Chasers are normally run at higher speeds than dies.