Monday, May 30, 2011

Autobahn88 Manifold Cracked

Thought i add info from my cracked mani...
Some of the feedback i got:
shit weld.... No edge prep at all, only one weld bead with minimal penetration....
If you get it welded up yoself ur gunna have to get the turbo mating flange ground to get it flat again. Have you got the stockie lying around?














MAF - PN MR985187

I put some info on the forums a while back.  Thought I consolidate all the info.

killed my MAF...prob to much boost i dunno no...
but going through lots of evo X forums its extremely common to fail...
was wondering if any1 here besides mat has killed there maf...

typical way to no is a crazy idle...low idle on cold startup 1k and high idle when warm 2kish
then if u reboot the car reset maf signal it will drop from the high idle to 1k idle...and run a tad richer
it some kind of safe limp map in stock ecu

below is a list of cars wit our maf...you can get luck and find em on ebay between 100-200ish
u can get rebuilt ones for under 200...or local wreckers for ??
below is 2 lists...one is from a website
* 2006, 2007 and 2008 Mitsubishi Eclipse (2.4L and 3.8L)
* 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008 Mitsubishi Endeavor
* 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009 Mitsubishi Galant
* 2004, 2005 and 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer (excluding Evolution 2.4L)
* 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer
* 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander
Part number is MR985187

from evo X forums
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE GS(2006 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE GT(2006 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE GT-P 2008
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE SE 2008
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE SPYDER GS(2007 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE SPYDER GT(2007 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE SPYDER GT-P 2008
MITSUBISHI ENDEAVOR 2004
MITSUBISHI ENDEAVOR LIMITED(2005 - 2006)
MITSUBISHI ENDEAVOR LS(2005 - 2008)
MITSUBISHI ENDEAVOR SE(2007 - 2008)
MITSUBISHI ENDEAVOR XLS 2005
MITSUBISHI GALANT 2004
MITSUBISHI GALANT DE(2005 - 2008)
MITSUBISHI GALANT ES(2005 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI GALANT GTS(2005 - 2007)
MITSUBISHI GALANT LS(2005 - 2006)
MITSUBISHI GALANT RALLIART(2007 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI GALANT SPORT EDITION 2009
MITSUBISHI GALANT SPORT V6 2009
MITSUBISHI LANCER DE(2008 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI LANCER ES(2008 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION GSR 2008
MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION MR 2008
MITSUBISHI LANCER GTS(2008 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI LANCER RALLIART(2004 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI LANCER SPORTBACK 2004
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER 2004
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER ES(2007 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER LIMITED(2005 - 2006)
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER LS(2005 - 2008)
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER SE(2006 - 2009)
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER XLS(2005 - 2009)

----
got a maf from a triton new model...for $150
had a few thousand km on the clock
looks to be all workin and idlin fine 

Saturday, May 28, 2011

Track Day - No Limits 26th May

Went down to Barbs for the last time before winter hits.
My goal was to hit 1:05 and lower. I knew it was possible.
Last time on the track the new rubber was really waxy.

I got my wish:
me n my Federal 595 street series rubber 1:03.4292
my mate and his stock rubber evo X ran a 1:01.9572


Plan to hit a 1:01 with a new clutch, i have slip in 2nd gear.
Possibly might try a stronger pad. I use a A1RM at the moment.
Might try a Carbotech or something for my Evo III twin pots.
Photos from http://www.kamimages.com.au/




Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Teaching Myself Engines - Fact Finding Mission

Building my own engine.  I am going to attempt to build my own engine.
Going to need to do alot of reading, sourcing parts and gettings more cool tools.

Build Parts I will require:
- new rods and studs
- new pistons + rings
- new larger cams
- valves and springs
- new mains studs + head studs
- timing belt
- water pump
- seal kit - head gasket, main seals
- new bearings (big end, crank saddles)

Will need to consider machine work by Perth companies:
- crank machine and balance
- decking the block to make sure they are perfectly flat
- block hone
- hot tanked?
- piston/bore coatings? http://www.cicceramic.com.au/
- head porting

Tools:
- snap/telescopic gauge - measure IDs
- dial bore gauge
- valve spring compressor
- stretch gauge
- ring compressor
- ring expander pliers
-  dial indicator (measure crank end play)

Precise Measurements:
- piston to wall clearance therefore: measurements of cylinder bores and piston heads
- measure the crank main bores - snap gauge or dial bore gauge
- crank main journals + main bearings
- crank cradle bolted down with plasti gauge - compare results to crank main journal measurements (measured with snap gauge etc)
- rod caps on and torquing to spec, measure the bore diameter
- rod to crank clearances:  Rod race diameter minus bearing thickness X 2 + rod journal diameter
- plasti gauged the rod bearings. Install the clean bearings in the rod and rod cap. Bolt them to the crank with a piece of plasti gauge and torque to spec
- ring gap

Other Details:
- 3 step torquing process following the factory pattern - when doing head bolts/main caps/cam caps/cam covers etc
- cleaned the bearing mating surfaces on the rod and rod cap
- ARP moly lub on the rod bolts
- use motor oil to coat cyclinder bores and the piston
- use some scrap fuel holes to put on the rod bolts to stop them scratching cylinder bores and rod journels
- clean all surfaces throughly where bearing and thrust bearing sit
- when installing any bolts coat them with engine oil, helps them stretch to spec when torquing
- assembly lube on crank jounals and bearing faces.
- install one of the retainer clips in the piston. A little assembly lube on the wrist pins and the rods to allow the pin to slide through the piston and rod easier. After the

wrist pin was in the piston rod combo install the second retainer clip
- full floating wrist pin in the aftermarket rod and piston head VS pressed in wrist pins
- The rod bolts I torque with a stretch gauge
- some info from an engine builder I got:
##make sure its someone that can read Wiseco's instructions, and measure the pistons correctly. It is done wrong more often than not. Also, do not let them go stupid on the piston to bore clearance, most old school V8 engine builders are off with the fairies when it comes to piston to bore clearance. Wiseco recommend 3-3.5 thou which is more than adequate for any 4G15 build 150-600hp.
##Yeah, there's nothing difficult about gapping the rings, its just time consuming.
Ring orientation is specified within the instructions from Wiseco with the ring kits provided.
The only other thing is checking all clearances accurately.
##Depends on the brand of camshaft, but generally, you need to run a new cam in for 15mins or so, at approx 2000rpm.
- when measuring piston head: You want to record the largest OD on the thrust axis, not the pin axis
- To set the ring end gaps you need to square the rings in the bore to ensure that you are measuring the end gaps accurately. In most cases you can use the piston itself and line the deck up with the 3rd ring land to ensure its square in the bore. Then use a feeler gauge to measure end gap.
- fine metal file in a vice will suffice. Make sure movements are pushing the ring towards the file, not pulling away. Once end gap is set remember to use a fine whetstone to deburr the edges of the rings or they WILL damage the bores and ring lands. I also go a little bit further and use an Arkansas stone to polish the ends.
-prime the engine with oil before starting

Links:
- http://www.angel-works.co.uk/articles/f4rbuild.php

Thursday, May 19, 2011

Clutch Options

So these guys DO make a clutch for us http://catalogue.xtremeclutch.com.au/catalogue.htm
Part Number KMI22015DSBHD
K = Kit
MI - Mitsubishi
22 = Outside Diameter code (cm)
015 = Sequence number
DSB = Disk Style
DSB
Dampened Centre, solid coupling riveted to centre, sintered buttons riveted to coupling.
Offers very positive engagement designed for heavy-duty street or off road motor sport use.
HD = Cover Style
Whats it got?
Details : with DSB Disc and Heavy Duty Cover
Specifications : Clamp Load = 700Kg (40% inc.)
DSBHD
HD Pressure plate combined with Sprung Button disc
* Very positive operation
* Designed for mild track use
Xtreme Xtra Heavy Duty Clutch Covers are engineered specifically to perform in Xtreme Street or Sprint conditions. The driveability is decreased due to increased pedal effort and style of clutch discs, however this minor compromise is overweighed by the Xtreme performance of the clutch. These clutches are offered to the higher modified vehicles that require a greater capacity but do not require a multi plate clutch.
Optional Part:
CSC Bearing Assembly Part Number CSCMI003
Details : Combined hydraulic slave cylinder and thrust bearing assembly
 ---------
Some of the prices in found from 2010
More inofrmation gathered from Mitsubishi - now with clutch part numbers:
Friction pl8: 2301A085 (trade $249+gst)
Pressure Pl8: MN196047 (trade $307+gst)
Thrust bearing: 2960A042 (trade $172+gst)

All up: $800.80 incl gst (retail is $920)
Extreme (Adelaide Clutch Services) 6 button sprung ceramic clutch kit
Pressure and Friction pl8 kit: KMI220015DSBHD $504.50 incl gst
Release Module: ATFM103 $282.28 incl gst
This price is direct from Extreme.
---------
Autoclutch is Ossi Park Perth is recommended by alot of people. But I haven't had much luck, they been busy.
Thinking of buying direct from over East.
I believe the Sachs number is 3082 000 590, from a Mitsubishi Smart.
Sachs Standard Replacement Clutch for Mitsubishi Colt CZT, Ralliart and Smart Brabus ForFour. 
http://www.htecelite.com/

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

No Limits April - Results

Both my mate and I are running stock rubber. Mine were brand new.
Think I was on a super lap till the car in front came off :(
Aim for next time is sub 1:04
Car is strong enough, its just the driver.

Posted by Picasa

No Limits April

Couple photos of my mates Evo X on the track...Was our first time...But he owned me...
I blame it on my new tires and running the car at about 80%
Clutch is on the way out @_@

mates brakes glowing hotz




































cold hearted killer!