Friday, July 20, 2012

Barbagallo Raceway Short Track - 19/07/2012 - 59.51seconds


I finally cracked the sub 1min and ran a 59.51 
(15 laps, fastest was the 12th. I beat my 2nd lap by .2seconds)
October 2011 (no changes besides a undertray and harness and confidence) where i ran a 1:01.3 (25 laps on the short track and 6 laps on the long)
September 2011 (New carbotech XP8 & clutch) - 1:03.79 (9 laps, fastest was the 1st lap)
May 2011 (using A1RM) - 1:03.42 (29 laps, fastest was 29th)
April 2011 (A1RM + new street series federals 0kms & waxy) - 1:07.16 (18 laps, fastest was 13th lap)

I wasn't to sure how i would go. Lots of changes to the car. Tires, suspension, camber, rear sway and the new TD04 (running about 160fwkw ~guestimation). Torque band seemed really well suited on the TD04, keeping revs above 3.5k. My brakes completely gave out and i wasn't able to improve my times. Only getting slower. So after three round i left him. I am now aiming for 57z. I wasn't maxing the car.

Brakes
I'm tempted to try some Project Mu F533 I believe is the model for the Evo twin pots. http://www.project-mu.co.jp/matching/pad/illust/mitsubishi/F533.pdf I like the sound of the RC09 http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/pad_rc09.php
The F533 Information:
Wide: 149.8mm 
E33/38/39A, E54/74/84A, EC3A/5A (GALANT) 
CD9A, CE9A, CN9A, CP/CT9A<RS> (LANCER Evo)


At the moment I am using CarboTech CT530-XP8. I guess it will all come down to price and availability as there is only one dealer in Australia for the CarboTech I could find.


New spark plugs for the race. 1 step colder (evo spark plugs IKH22)












Some tire wear. Must fix the guards before i hit the track next time.






Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Wheel Alignment - Camber & Toe Check - RColt - WA Suspension

Previous alignment when i was using Tein Coilovers without camber tops and without the rear camber shim
http://ayu452.blogspot.com.au/2011/10/alignment-by-wade-bridgestone.html

Fitting the Camber Shim to the rear
http://ayu452.blogspot.com.au/2012/07/fitting-camber-shim.html

Front
Actual Camber:
So...Using camber bolts on the old coilovers i managed a -1.21degrees at the front.
The new coilovers with camber tops and elongated bolt holes is -3.9degrees
Actual Toe: I have neutral toe settings.
Actual  Caster: 2.9degrees on the left and 3.1degree on the right.
Factory Spec Camber: -1.0 to 0.0degrees
Factory Spec Caster: 2.1 to 3.1 degrees
Factory Spec Toe: -1.3mm to 1.3mm

Rear
Actual Camber:
Previous rear camber is unknown, if you see the sheet provided by bridgestone. I can't make sense of it.
At the moment the rear camber ended up at -3.1degrees left and -2.9degrees right.
Actual Toe: Rear toe on the left is 0.6mm and rear right was 4.5mm.
Factory Spec CamberApparently factory camber spec can be from -1.8 to -0.3degrees
Factory Spec Toe-1.3mm to 5.1mm

I am still reading how to correct my rear toe @_@ what a headache
Came across some interesting sites e.g. http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Geo_Setups
Which talks about -

Converting toe from mm to degrees:
Measure the rim diameter in mm as the size e.g. 17" is not the actual diameter your measurements are based on.
Multiply the result by PI to get the circumference.
Divide the result by 360 to get mm per degree.
Divide the toe mm by the mm/degree result to get toe in decimal degrees

Or Excel =DEGREES( ASIN( TOE_IN_MM / ( RIM_DIA_INCHES * 25.4 )))

Or use the calculator on this page, hypotenuse is the rim diameter the toe per wheel (total toe divided by 2) in mm is width (or toe in degrees is angle A).  http://joyfulcoder.net/sohcahtoa/

What to do if you don't know your torque values?
http://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorqueNm.aspx

















Tuesday, July 17, 2012

Dodgy Fitment - Version 1 for the Track

 After some camber and smashed guard and a minor lift. Managed to squeeze em in.
No idea how she will drive @_@

Rear Left



Rear Camber


Where it all started









Rear Right














Driver Front























Passenger Front

























Sunday, July 15, 2012

Fitting Torsion Bar Camber Shim to RColt

trying to find spherical washer/self-aligning to reduce stress on the bolt.
at the moment i have the highest tensile bolt i could get. greater than 10.4 i believe it was.
had to get a internal hex screw head apparently the other they didn't have in such a high tensile.
M10x30mm, i went slightly longer by 5mm (stock from memory is M10x1.5mm 25mm long)
Shim was made to 1.5degrees. By rough guesses it created a camber of approx 8-10mm
http://www.smallparts.com.au/store/partslist/washersselfaligning/washers/wide/1/
I have added alot of front camber. Maybe 4 degree. Similar to http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/323248/car/220836/706405/note.aspx

I made the shim like so for the stress dispersion of the anchoring to the hub. Hence the full face shim design rather than some tapered washers.

rough estimate with camber

without camber









Camber - /alignment.html

Checking camber is a heck of a lot easier than toe. The main tool I use is a slightly modified level. I cut a piece of aluminum square bar stock to match the height of the rim. This is not the listed wheel diameter (which is the diameter that the tire is mounted on), but the wheel diameter plus the size of the mounting rim that you will measure against. In my case, a 17" wheel is really 18" (457.2mm) from top to bottom.
I just taped the bar stock with electrical tape, so that it could slide a bit on the level. This is good because I want the end of the bar to sit on the lower part of the wheel, not the tire. So I slide the bar so the level can sit on the ground while the bar sits nicely on the lower rim.
With the level against the wheel, place the digital caliper between the rim and the level (as shown). I really pull the level out about 1.5" or so to start with, and then slowly push it in (which compresses the caliper too) as I watch the bubble in the level. When the bubble is perfectly centered, get the reading from the caliper (0.863in = 21.92mm in the pic).
The camber angle is easily calculated with the formula:

inverse tan( __mm measured / _mm bar length ) = __ deg camber

Example:
inverse tan( 21.92mm / 457.2mm ) = 2.7 deg camber
Or, if you like using inches (I use inches when measuring camber):

inverse tan( 0.863in / 18in ) = 2.7 deg camber

Friday, July 13, 2012

Okuyama - Carbing Frame Brace Install - 694 327 0 - Z27AG


Product Specs from http://www.rhdjapan.com/okuyama-carbing-center-frame-brace-colt-ralliart-version-r-56848
Brand: OKUYAMA
Product: Carbing Frame Brace - Center Colt Ralliart Ver.R Z27AG
Part Num: 694 327 0

FEATURES:
- Whats is Frame Brace?
Frame brace increases rigidity of the vehicle body by adding bracing points to the original vehicle core position. Front, center, and rear braces are available for various vehicles. Steel (STKM13A) construction. Brackets and the shaft are welded together to make single piece construction for lighter weight and higher rigidity.

1. Front type
Frame Brace connects front suspension member and first front vehicle frame.
Its add rigidity of front overhang for better steering response and stability during cornering.

2. Center type
Frame Brace connects front suspension member and first front vehicle frame.
Its add rigidity of front overhang for better steering response and stability during cornering.

3. Rear type
Weak point of the hatch-back type vehicle aft body has strengthened by installing this Rear Frame Brace.
Waddling sensation of bad trail lane changes and larger wheel (inch up) vehicle improves for a smoother ride.
Carbing Rear Frame Brace is installed above the spare tire space. This makes no interference in trunk space.
This device is strongly recommended for the vehicles with big opening in the rear part of the body such as Rear hatch back type vehicles and Mini vans.

SPECIFICATIONS:
Position: Center
Material: Steel (STKM13A)


I had some UR Bracing on the rear which i have now removed. The Carbing brace was a little tricky to install. Lucky with my air ratchet it was made much easier. As the front bolts just hang in the hole.
I think it really needs some glue as you try to put the nut on it, it pushed the bolt inside the recess/hole.



Very tricky to install these. I used a screw driver to hold the thread, so that the air ratchet could catch the threads when putting the nut on



Old UR Racing vs the Carbing design.

UR Rear sway bar as well as rear ARB.
Have now been replaced by some decent JDM spec bracing.


Angle grinder to cut it off.


Rear Stabilizer Bar Mitsubishi Colt Z21A Z27AG - 525 311 B14 - Installation

I finally got around to installing my rear cusco swaybar http://ayu452.blogspot.com.au/2012/01/cusco-525-311-a28-525-311-b14-525-561.html
Product: Rear Stabilizer Bar Mitsubishi Colt Z21A Z27AG Z27WG
Part Num: 525 311 B14








Friday, July 6, 2012

Nakai-san @ RWB


Sweet new video by Luke Huxham at maiham-media.com for eGarage.com
Nakai-san has some really good quotes!

Egarage article http://www.egarage.com/videos/rwb-rauh-welt-begriff/
Vimeo Video http://vimeo.com/36334449
and Autoblog link http://www.autoblog.com/2012/02/21/egarage-interviews-akira-nakai-of-rwb-in-latest-video/

"Whether people's opinions are good or bad, i welcome both, feedback is a good thing.
Even if people say they don't like my work it still makes me very happy.
The fact that my work caught their attention makes me happy."
 - this applies a lot to me when racing a hatch back haha
and

"There is no such things as "ugly" cars. It's a hobby, we all like different things."

Rear Shim Rcolt Draft Design

I previously found some info on the Minkara website as seen here http://ayu452.blogspot.com.au/2012/07/rear-camber-draft-camber-shim-for-colt.html
At the moment i have started measuring and drafting possible camber spacers. At the stage where i need to get a bunch made up with varying angles to see what works and to double check the template.



Blog Entry
Youtube Video Of Brake Removal