Thursday, August 23, 2012

Z27AG Rear Suspension Bush - Ralliart Replacement

Made a new batch of bushes. These are a replacement for:

RALLIART Bushing - Rear Shock Upper (A)
RALLIART Bushing - Rear Shock Upper (B)


Same durometer as before 83A
http://ayu452.blogspot.com.au/2012/02/rear-replacement-bushes-for-z27ag-rcolt.html

Some pictures of the stock Ralliart Items - http://www.rcolt.com/showthread.php?4942-Ralliart-suspension-parts/page2

Other Ralliart Bracing solutions - Ralliart Braces and the Japanese site Version R

Front Floor Brace RA522745K1 24,675yen(23,500yen) 6-points holding , Steel
Strut Tower Bar(Front) RAZ23406R2 18,900yen(18,000yen) 2-pionts holing Aluminum
Fender Inner Brace RA522425R1 19,950yen(19,000yen) Right/Left set, Aluminum





Also decided to modify the stock engine pitch limiter.
I went with a 73 or 75A from memory. Can't remember now @_@
Looks the goods. If it is to harsh i will drill some holes in it. I plan to do a similar thing to the other engine mounts.


Monday, August 20, 2012

New Camber Shims

Fitting the Shims
Wheel Alignment

Got a new design made up in the hopes of cancelling out the toe.
I have made rough calculations and believe for every 1mm in toe i require a degree change of .15038degrees.
hence the 4.5mm toe i have currently is approx .73689degrees.
Based on my 15" rim.

toe in degrees = arcsin[ (toe in mm of each wheel) / (wheel diam in mm) ]
if arcsin return radians therefore
 - radians to degrees = rad x 180/pi

Excel =DEGREES( ASIN( TOE_IN_MM / ( RIM_DIA_INCHES * 25.4 )))

I think my maths is right :)

Basically one design is slotted to allow rotation.
The other design had a bunch of wholes to allow for a 45degree rotation and a 90 degree rotation of the face which tapers at 1.5degrees.
I will pull out the micrometer and measure. See how all the measurements work (should be fun).

The shims were made by Kim owner of Tin Shed Machining. He does lathe and milling work for custom motorcycles and other small hobby jobs. If anyone needs his contact let me know. Great guy, easy to through ideas at. Next lil project once i have got rid of the rear toe will be some dog bones for bigger calipers.
Want to experiment with the evo brakes.



Sunday, August 19, 2012

Fuel Pump EG Civic '92 - How to with Photos

WALBRO GENUINE IN-TANK ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP 255LPH HONDA CIVIC EG EK 92-99 GSS342
http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/95576-diy-92-95-civic-fuel-pump-instal.html


Found out my fuel pump died. Car wouldn't start. First thing i decided to try was pull off the fuel line and try start the car. Nothing!
If there was fuel the next thing i would move onto is spark.

Looks like the stock locking clip wasn't compatible so off it went.



















Remove stock wiring. Undo the 17mm fuel line and return line.
Then undo your bolts holding the fuel lid on


Slightly different size. But zip ties will fix that!


















Use a small socket to push the locking ring on








Apparently zip ties are safe due to them be petroleum?
Worst case scenario is i change to stainless zip ties ;)










17mm and fuel return. Easy enough.
Some people open the fuel tank cap to relief pressure. Or disconnect the wiring and start the car etc.
When taking off the return line you will drop some petrol.







Shortshifters Z27AG - RPW vs Stock vs Beatrush

I am yet to compare my RPW shortshifter to this one. But it looks like the swing bracket for left and right has been bent n cut up. I am not to sure on the physics of it all though. Fulcum and pivot points etc.
The one on the yellow square is RPW bracket the other is OEM

RPW shortshifter

Beatrush shortshifter

Stock

The one on the yellow square is RPW bracket the other is OEM

The plastic thingy on the left is the stock clip. Its super delicate. We used a straw to push the clips back.
The circlips and broken bits are form the RPW short shifter. A bit dodgy. It should use a rubber gromet and circlips etc

The quick shifter screw size is M10x1.25 - gear knob thread for the RColt
which is a standard mitsubishi fitting
nissan and mazda also use the same
good chance any of those will fit

Bubble tea straw style


Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Project Mu or CarboTech? 276mm or 294mm Rotors hmmm....

Rotors - Project Mu for My Car?
                                            Pure Plus6,             SCR,            SCR-PRO
CD9A, CE9A   Evo1 - 3 F
276×24 114.3×4 -               SPPM103-S6              SCRM041

CN/CP/CT9A(RS) Evo4 - 9 F
276×24 114.3×5 -               SPPM104-S6              SCRM042 -

CN9A (GSR)   Evo4 F
294x24 114.3×5 -               SPPM105-S6              SCRM044         GPRM044

The EVO4 larger 294mm rotors require 16" rims. The 276mm can run on a 15" rim.
Will need to convert the 5 stud to a 4 stud, easy enough.

Previously had DBA 4000 on the Colt

---Rotors - EVO I, II, III - DBA 4402---
Type - 4000 Series Standard
Vent - Vented
Diameter - 276
Height - 45
Thickness - 24
Min Thickness - 22.4
Centre Hole Dia - 69
Bolt Holes - 4
---DBA 4402---
DBA 4402S - 4000 Series T3 Slot
DBA 4402SL - 4000 Series Slotted Left
DBA 4402SR - 4000 Series Slotted Right

---Rotors - EVO 4 - DBA 417---
Vent - Vented
Diameter - 294
Height - 46
Thickness - 24
Min Thickness - 22.4
Centre Hole Dia - 69
Bolt Holes - 5
DBA 4402XS - 4000 Series Crossdrilled Slotted

Vehicle fitment:

Lancer Evo 4 CN9A 09/96-02/98 Non brembo
Legnum VR-4 EC4W T/Turbo 08/96-on
Diamante/ Magna TJ, TL AWD V6 2003-on

http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com -
1996 - 1999 Mitsubishi Lancer / Evolution EVO IV - GSR, w/ 16" wh. - Front

DBA 4417SLR - 4000 Slotted Rotors - Pair   
List Price: $450.88
Our Price: $354.26
You Save $96.62 Qty Add
 
DBA 4417XSLR - 4000 Drilled/Slotted Rotors - Pair   
List Price: $498.51
Our Price: $391.68
You Save $106.83 Qty Add
 
DBA 5417.1SLR - 5000 Slotted Replacement Disc Only - Pair  
List Price: $627.20
Our Price: $492.80
You Save $134.40 Qty Add
 
DBA 5417.1XSLR - 5000 Drilled/Slotted Replacement Disc Only - Pair  
List Price: $669.20
Our Price: $525.80
You Save $143.40 Qty Add
 
DBA 5417BLKSLR - 5000 Slotted Rotors - Pair
List Price: $907.20
Our Price: $712.80
You Save $194.40 Qty Add
 
DBA 5417GLDXSLR - 5000 Drilled/Slotted Rotors - Pair
List Price: $1,008.00
Our Price: $792.00
You Save $216.00 Qty Add



Been doing some reading and it looks like I need an outlander 05/06 or a Lancer Ralliart 2011 MR307282 bracket to be able to run larger diameter rotors? More info down below.

---Pads - CarboTech--- CT530 XP8 over the AX6 due to track work
http://www.ctbrakes.com/brake-compounds.asp
A high torque brake compound with a wide operating temperature range of 200°F-1350°F+ (93°C to 732°C+). Carbotech™ XP8™ is the first of our racing compounds. Good initial bite at race temperatures, high coefficient of friction, excellent modulation and release characteristics. Extremely high fade resistance and very rotor friendly. Excellent as a front brake pad for lighter applications weighing around 2,400lbs or less. Perfect for track day use with any tire and can still be driven safely to and from the track. Carbotech™ does NOT recommended XP8™ as a daily driven street pad due to elevated levels of dust and noise. Carbotech™ XP8™ is a great compound on the front & rear of most open wheel and sports racers.

---Pads - Project Mu--- F533 RC09 - Pad Width is 149.8mm
Evo -
CD9A, CE9A, CN9A, CP/CT9A<RS> (LANCER Evo)
E33/38/39A, E54/74/84A, EC3A/5A (GALANT)

Lancer -
94.1 - 96.7 CE9A-EVOI/II/III  2pot/1pot
96.8 - 97.12 CN9A-EVOIV  2pot/1 pot
98.1 - 99.12 CP9A-EV0 V/ VI RS  2pot/1pot

Magna -
04.96-8.00 TH,TF,TE Sumitomo Caliper F533
04.96-8.00 TH.TF,TE Akebono Caliper F533
also fits the Lancer Ralliart

Cross reference information from >>>

Compound Hyper Carbon RC
Rotor Temp 300~800℃
Friction 0.42~0.55μ

RC09 Club Racer is the new pad from Project-Mu for club racing and rally enthusiasts with seriously fast cars. It is a brake pad that offers the very best in performance, feel and release, whilst staying below the $400 mark! This pad really punches above it's weight and will push aside many other over-priced race pads in many race and rally applications.

RC09 It is based on the DNA of Project-Mu's ultra successful H16-03 motorsport pad which is one of the world's best race pads today. Club Racer is the pad to use of your car spends a majority of it's time on the track or in a rally at anything up to full professional motorsport.

Available in all shapes and thickness, for Japanese, European, Australian road calipers right through to GT3's and Gallardo's! A full range of motorsport shapes are also available for AP, Alcon, Brembo, Wilwood etc

H16-03 seems to be a jump up. Racing level.

As seen below the pad shape is a F533 which corresponds to:
- Ferodo FCP765
- Hawk HB214.618
- Pagid 1591
- Performance Friction Brakes 0530
- Carbone Lorraine 4072


---Pads - Carbone Lorraine--- 4072
The Carbone Lorraine RC6 Brake pad compound is designed for all race car applications. The RC6 Brake pad compound has an average friction coefficient of μ=0.5 and are very effective from cold, giving excellent initial bite yet will still not deteriorate in braking over 1000 °C.

The Carbone Lorraine RC6 Endurance is a new high performance brake pad that offers similar grip to the RC6 brake pad (friction coefficient of μ=0.46). The RC6 Endurance brake pads offer an unmatched low wear rate which can offer a large advantage in 6 - 24hr endurance racing.

---Pads - PFC Performance Friction Brakes--- 0530
http://www.performancefrictionbrakes.com.au/pad_details.php?id=0530

---Info - Titanium Shims---
The only off the shelf ones i can find is for the GTO 4 pots (1992-1999 3000GT VR4). These also suit the R32 GTR Sumitomo brakes. From hardbrakes.com
The dimensions are 119mmx62x.5 (LxHxD)
Evo X also has some from Girodisc

Some feedback I got from my brake importer regarding titanium shims
Titanium shims is a topic that a lot of people have opinions on. I personally enquired about them many years ago and the guys from Carbotech explained to me why not to use which made sense and as a result I haven’t used them. Basically they stop heat transfer from pad to caliper yes, but this only results in the pad being cooked between rotor and caliper and as a result reduced braking performance. So my recommendation would be to stay away from them and put you money into better pads or fluid.

---Strange Fact Finding Mission---
Our brakes on a Volvo?
Before i begin a crazy fact is that the Volvo S40 / V40 '96-'04 shares the same hub mount. Hence they also use the same Evo III brake upgrade. See here >>>
For those wanting to try upgraded pads on the stock RColt then lookout for the Volvo S40 00 - 04.

Front: CT837
Rear: CT838
PM me if you want the contact within Australia for Carbotech.
I am going to get some XP8 for the rears and XP10 for the Evo twin pots.  XP10s are not recommended on the road. They need the heat. I wanna go all out this time on the track.



Bigger discs thanks to an Outlander 05/06?
Mitsubishi Evo 4-8 283mm Rear Vented Brake Disc suitable for 15" wheels and over
part number MR128661 along with this dog bone MR307282 to adapt the twin pots to the bigger rotor? Seems to be a part of a 2005/06 Outlander.
I need dimensions of this rotor. It could be usable as my front disc ;) After searching its the wrong dimensions, see below...

If you had the money you could simply go Wilwood brakes from Freaky Parts

On the DSM forums I found this >>>
Are more concise tutorial can be seen here

"A few years ago I came across a post on the early evo forums about a factory rotor upgrade for the evo 1-3. Early evos use same brakes as 2g AWD. 276mm (10.9") rotor and 2-piston calipers. The RVR which is the evo 3 drivetrain factory installed in EXPO body. The vehicle uses a 294mm (11.6") rotor and the same 2 piston calipers. All you need for upgrade is the larger rotors and caliper brackets. After about ten hours of research I found the details needed to get these parts here in the states.
The bracket part number is MR307282.
The rotors come from 2005-2006 Outlander. They are identical dimensions to 276mm rotor except for 294mm diameter.
1G guys could just buy rotors and calipers from salvage outlander from your local junk yards. 2G guys just need the rotors and brackets."
Fitment Results /z27ag-rcolt-mr307282-with-294mm-discs.html

DSM? Mitsubishi Eclipse
Dual-piston calipers that come stock on 2g AWD is a  common upgrade for 2g FWD. 1g DSMers can use the 2g twin pots even though the attacment point of the brake line is different.
1G was 1990 to 1994
2G was 1994 to 1999
3G was 2000 to 2005
But there are many models withing each series.

See here on Minkara and Here

Crazy duct system - Based on the fact that some rotor suck from the inside and some suck from the outside

People seem to be doing some convserion on the Outlander with the following parts as seen here hence why i started thinking of the change in the floating caliper bracket and rotor.
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX Dual piston calipers
2005 Mitsubishi Outlander brake caliper brackets MR307282
2005 Mitsubishi Outlander Slotted rotors (11.6" rotor vs GSX 10.9")

I have confirmed these brake caliper brackets do fit the Colt with the Evo III twin pots.

Further my research -
EBC UPR Premium OEM Replacement Rotors UPR7336 05-06 Mitsubishi Outlander Front - 11.6"
Which i later discovered seems to match the Evo IV rotor i mentioned about.
DBA 417 DBA - 294mm
Diameter 294
Height 46
Thickness 24
Min Thickness 22.4
Centre Hole Dia 69
Bolt Holes 5

OEM Rotor for the Outlander:
DBA 2201
Diameter 276
Height 45.5
Thickness 26
Min Thickness 24.4
Centre Hole Dia 69
Bolt Holes 5

EBC Brake DP6954 Front Premium Organic Pads - For the Outlander
150mmx59mmx16mm (WxHxD)

MITSUBISHI EVO 1,2,3 - 1992 - 1996
EBC Green Brake Pads Front - DP2954

Found specs on the Evo III pads:
150mmx59mmx16mm (WxHxD)

Hence both Outlander 05/06 and Evo III use the same sized pads.


---Twin Pot Service Parts---
Info gathered from http://www.camskill.co.uk/

1) MB618215 - Upper bolt gromit/bush. Fits to end of bolt MB618228
    Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 2 & 3 CE9A
2) MB151403 MS450993 - Front Brake caliper mounting bracket Bolt & spring washer - Bolts carrier/mounting bracket to hub
    ONE Bolt & ONE Washer
    Mitsubishi Lancer EVO 2 3 CE9A
3) MR389651 - Front brake pads - Shim Kit
    ONE Kit of 2 Shims
    Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 1 2 3 CD9A CE9A
4) MB618228 - Upper caliper slide bolt - This does NOT include the gromit/bush this cam be purchased separately
    ONE Bolt - Upper Bolt on the Caliper Guide - Rubber Grommet on the end of it
    Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 2 & 3 CE9A
5) MB618227 - Lower caliper slide bolt
    ONE Bolt
6) MR389599 - Front Pad retaining clips - Holds pads in the floating caliper
    ONE Set of 4 Clips (therefore included Left and Right side clips)
    Also suits twin pots on Evo IV CN9A
7) MB857840 - Caliper service kit for all front 2 pot caliper EVO's. Includes all seals for ONE front caliper
    ONE KIT - 2 Pot Caliper Models - Includes grease and rubbet boots for slide bolts
    Also suits twin pots on Evo IV CN9A
    Minkara - Removing the Pistons from Caliper Part 1
    Minkara - Changing the Seals Part 2
8) MB618218 - Front Brake caliper mounting bracket- http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/193453/car/82402/981309/note.aspx
    ONE Bracket to do ONE Caliper
    Mitsubishi Lancer EVO 2 3 CE9A
    No difference between left and right in my findings
9) LH (MB699450) and RH (MB699451) - I believe are the caliper numbers
    Confirmed for the Galant-E39A via Minkara

Extra Items
i)  MR249963 - Mounting bracket. for cars with 294mm discs
     Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 4 CN9A with 294mm discs
     Some places say 296mm discs and the mount hole spacing is 130mm
        or
     the evo IV mounting is 160mm and evo III is 130mm @_@
     There are two different saddle bridges. Thefore 130mm to 296mm rotor and the 130mm to 276mm rotor
     These do requrie 16" rims
     I am pretty sure teh 160mm bridge is for the Evo IV hub as they can use the Brembos
     Different mounting brackets are mention here http://www.dsm-club.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14122
     where they talk about the 130mm and the 160mm relative to the 1G and 2G etc
ii) MR249656 and MR249657 - Rear Brake Caliper
     Mitsubishi Lancer EVO 4 CN9A

---Caliper Mounting Brackets Explained---
MR307282 = 130mm Mount to 296mm Disc (Over Size Disc)
  Outlander 05/06 requires 16" rim for the enlarged discs
  Therefore you can adapt the dual piston caliper
MB618218 = 130mm Mount to 276mm Disc (Standard Size Disc)
  Mitsubishi Lancer EVO 1 CD9A
MR249963 = 160mm to 296mm (Standard Size Disc for Evo 4+)
  Therefore 160mm is for the Galant EA0 (EA0) Evo4-9 identical left & right


Sunday, August 12, 2012

Z27AG Clutch and Rear Main PII


start at ~10am and finish 8pm working on a stock engine bay. Remove all component - drop gb fluid, remove axles and tie rods (this time i did not remove brakes), engine dampener, battery, airbox, 5 bell housing bolts, gear linkage cables, engine mount.
Then clutch, flywheel and rear main housing. New rear main seal, new gasket goop.
Note that the thread from the oil-pan bolts are really shallow when going in to the rear main seal housing. Almost had one pull through. When removing it i believe it stripped some threads. worst case scenario will be a future recoil kit :( or new rear main housing cover.
You can use some emery paper or steel wool to clean the crank, however i didn't do this as the scoring on the crank wasn't so bad, plus i didn't want to contaminate the oil. We weren't doing an oil change. But in future probably an oil change and a little emery paper would be perfect.

Late lunch :)

Seal part numbers MD372250 and 2960A032
Drive side axle seal is easy! the passenger side is a little hard. my 32mm socket rested nicely on the inside hard lip. Otherwise i believe a socket greater than that 36mm? that can rest on the outside edge.


Love a fresh fly wheel. Installed with 5 new bolts and red loctite. tighten diagonally. I use a rattle gun with kincrome flex bits. It suppose to reduce the torque.
Torque extension bar set 10 piece 1/2" square drive

• Manufactured from high quality Chrome Molybdenum Steel (Cr-Mo). 
• For use with 1/2 Sq. Drive Air & Power Impact Wrenches on domestic and commercial cars and light trucks to tighten wheel nuts to manufacturers specifications. 
• Fits normal and thin wall specifications 
• Helps to eliminate overtorqued lug nuts and/or broken studs. 
• Prevents distortion, misalignment and damage to rotors, drums and wheels. 
• Highly recommended for use on all ABS vehicles. 
• Shaft flexes with each blow of the impact wrench when specified torque is reached. 
• Please refer to the Car Users Manual fir individual wheel torque settings. 
• Available individually. 

10 Torque Extension Bars: 
1/2" x 200L x 55lb (75Nm) 
1/2" x 200L x 65lb (90Nm) 
1/2" x 200L x 80lb (110Nm) 
1/2" x 200L x 90lb (120Nm) 
1/2" x 200L x 100lb (135Nm) 
1/2" x 200L x 110lb (150Nm) 
1/2" x 200L x 120lb (160Nm) 
1/2" x 200L x 140lb (190Nm) 
1/2" x 200L x 150lb (205Nm) 
1/2" x 200L x 175lb (240Nm)



Strange heat spots. Looks like the same pressure plate is used on the stock clutch and Exedy. could be using a different offset and spring to increase clamp load? Not to sure


You are paying for the pink!



Always a fight trying to get the engine and gearbox to line up :( if only the engine bay was an inch wider it would be perfect!


Z27AG Clutch and Rear Main PI

Worn out diaphragm spring, looks like uneven wear caused by the throwout bearing.
Or the diaphragm fingers collapsed for some strange reason
More on clutch workings >>>
Exedy says:  Clutch diaphragm fingers or levers are uneven.
CAUSE
The pressure plate cover assembly was torqued down incorrectly i.e. not diagonally.
The pressure plate cover assembly was torqued down with an air wrench.
SOLUTION
Refer to EXEDY packaging for correct saquence to tighten bolts.
Never use air tools to torque down a clutch.

OR
Excessive wear on diaphragm tips and a highly glazed pressure plate casting.
CAUSE
Lack of free travel/bearing riding on diaphragm.
Driver resting foot on clutch pedal.
Quill shaft worn/bearing stuck on a worn spot and not returning to original position.
Clutch slave cylinder corroded or worn and piston not returning to allow free travel.
Stretched or sticky cable.
SOLUTION
Adjust free play in clutch to specification.
Driver education.
Replace quill shaft (gear box main drive nose cone).
Replace clutch slave cylinder and check pressure build up in clutch master cylinder.
Replace cable. (Do not re-oil old cable).








Rear main seal -- heated up the rear main seal casing with a hot air gun because it wouldn't go in @_@ even with a bunch of lube around it.
I have read that it is a good idea to use some good grease around the crank seal to help the run in. I however used motor oil.

The Mitsubishi manual uses a MD998011 to press fit the oil seal. I managed to find something of a similar diameter to press fit it in. But the housing did require heat.
Unfortunately i had to remove the housing off the block :( i couldn't get the seal out with it all fitted :(
 To make sure if was flush with the housing i used some wood and a rubber hammer to tap it flush.
Bolts are rated at 11NM. 
Tighten in a criss cross pattern and repeat


I always put extra 


I didn't take the oil pan off so i layered in on. Hope she well seal nicely. It looks messy because i didn't have the needle feeder thingy