- assorted pullers (LSD), tie rod separators, axle nut (32mm 6 sided socket - Impact!), female torx bits and assorted socket sets, spanners, geared spanners, hammers, crow bar, breaker bar, rattle gun, security bit set and torque wrench, clutch alignment tool
- 2 jacks (one jack to move gearbox and one to move engine) and 4 stands (I found its way easier getting the gearbox back in when car is level, hence the four stands)
Pictures: /lsd-install-z27ag-part-1-getting-box.html
Basic Video: /2012/04/z27ag-ralliart-colt-clutch-install.html
Inside the gearbox Part I: /disassemble-fitment-of-z27ag-gearbox.html
Inside the gearbox Part II: /disassemble-z27ag-gearbox-4g15-getrag.html
Inside the gearbox Part III: /gearbox-parts-lists-rebuilding-my.html
James Clutch Pics I: /z27ag-clutch-and-rear-main-pi.html
James Clutch Pics II/z27ag-clutch-and-rear-main-pii.html
More Information on clutches:
- /lsd-install-z27ag-part-1-getting-box.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-1-intake-removal.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-2-tools.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-3-demolished-brakes.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-4-axles.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-5-clutch-out.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-6-clutch-fork-install.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-7-broken-gear-linkage.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-8-morning-shopping.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-9-in-you-go.html
- /clutch-bed-in-procedure.html
Various torque setting
- Top engine mount bolt and nuts = 43+/-4Nm
- Starter motor = 24+/-3Nm
- Bottom engine mount three bolts = 58+/-6Nm
- bell housing bolts = 48+/-6Nm
- bell housing bottom cover (bolt that go into the gearbox) = 23+/-4Nm
- bell housing bottom cover (bolt that go into the engine block) = 48+/-6Nm
- LSD ring gear bolts = 85+/-5Nm
- 18 gearbox torx bolts = 27+/-1Nm
- clutch fork torx bolt = 10 +/-1Nm
- Clutch cover to flywheel bolts = 18+/-1Nm
- Flywheel bolts = 132 ± 5
- Rear oil seal case = 11 ± 1
- Strut Assembly (top hat bolts x 3) = 44 ± 5Nm
- Strut/Knucle connection = 88 ± 10Nm
- Bolt (Lower arm and cross member connection) = 123 ± 12Nm
- Nut (Lower arm and crossmember connection) = 123 ± 12Nm
- Lower arm assembly ball joint = 60 ± 6Nm
- Swaybar linkage = 30 ± 5Nm
- Swaybar stabilizer bracket to cross member = 50 ± 10Nm
- Tie rod to knucle connection = 25 ± 5Nm
- Axle nut = 245 ± 29Nm
- driver side axle cover (holds axle to engine block) = 23 ± 3Nm
Description Snippit (LSD + Gearbox)
I used a 32mm socket on top of a 34-36mm washer (i think) to tap on the bearings.
Use a bigger socket it you have one 32mm was my biggest ;)
NOTE: bearing and outer race are matched! do not mix them up and mark them.
2) Need to remove the axles from the gearbox. To do so you need to remove your rims, drop the gearbox oil, remove the axle nut (32mm) remove the tie rod from the hub and brakes.
You will also need to remove your brakes and rotors. Hang the caliper from the springs so no weight is on the brake lines.To remove the tie rod a handy tool is a tie rod separator see right.
There are multiple types this is one of them.
To remove the gearbox filler/drain plugs you need a hex bit 5/16 i believe was the size.
It is worth while buying a M18x1.5mm brass fitting for the filler hole with a right angle bit so you can fill it up from the top of the engine bay anytime (I have completed this side project).
Then you remove your suspension to hub bolts (2 of them)...I marked all bolts, well tried to.
Once the hub is hanging freely you might have to smash the axle end to release it from the hub bearing.
Once it is released you can remove your hub assy or just leave it hanging.
Dont do what i need and get impatient and use a tierod splitter bar, you just break shit (fail @_@ )
If you want to remove the hub assy spray the lower ball joint with CRC then use the ball joint/tie rod separator.
I removed the stock sway bar bolt also.
3) Driver side axle should come out easily there is no circlip holding it in apart from a 2 bolt bracket.
I have a after market front pipe that was able to stay on the hole time. The stock one might get in the way and may need to be removed. The passenger side axle might be a bitch because it has an internal snapring/circlip...so you need to wedge something between the gearbox and the cv joint/bearing thing.
Try not to damage the inner axle oil seal when removing the axle...Do this by pulling it straight out slowly without hitting the sides. Otherwise you have to replace it like I did. Which is fairly easy.
4) Other things you need to remove are battery, airbox, clutch master cylinder and starter motor. Various bolts on all of them, nothing to special. Also need to remove the clutch cover (that's what i call it, no idea the real name)
Those 4 red bolts and 2 others hold on the clutch cover thing (right).
Remove the black thing is the clutch master and the other black thing is the starter (above right).
5) Remove all the stuff in the way of the gearbox top side. I removed the battery tray and some of the intake pipes. There are 3 engine mount bolts you need to take off. Also another 5 bolts holding the gearbox to the engine.
If it breaks -
/semi-solid-shifter-linkage-from-minkara.html
/gearbox-drop-part-7-broken-gear-linkage.html
/solid-shifter-linkage-and-custom.html
Try not to damage them.
best to remove the 5 gearbox screws before the engine mount bolts.
My mounts stripped and had to recoil them @_@ /recoil-engine-brace-mount-z27ag.html this has happened to my mate. So it can happen to you. The ally binds and rips the threads with the bolt
Don't worry it wont drop, it is sitting on the crankshaft spline. Now the gearbox should come free with some movement. Try to break the seal on the bell housing.
From now on things get tricky. Dropping the gearbox off the spline @_@We used two jacks to wiggle the engine up and down to get it to fall out. Do get an extra set of hands!!!
So by lifting the engine up (use a piece of wood between the oil sump and jack for protection) and down you need to be able to clear the gearbox off the side intrusion bar/car frame?
Clutch cover and front pipe (right)
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