- http://www.speedprint.com/
Further Details
- /rcolt-rebuild-pick-list-part-numbers.html
- /teaching-myself-engines-fact-finding.html
- /generic-servicing-tools.html
Tools:
- Engine stand & crane- torque wrench - flex beam
- hammer with plastic or wood handle
- spanners and sockets
- assembly lube
- oil - mineral oils / run in oil
- gasket sealer - oil pan and head
- engine paint
- freeze plug installer
- thread sealer
Hardcore Tools:
- snap/telescopic gauge - measure IDs
- dial bore gauge
- valve spring compressor
- stretch gauge
- ring compressor
- ring expander pliers
- dial indicator (measure crank end play)
Precise Measurements:
- piston to wall clearance therefore: measurements of cylinder bores and piston heads
- measure the crank main bores - snap gauge or dial bore gauge
- crank main journals + main bearings
- crank cradle bolted down with plasti gauge - compare results to crank main journal measurements (measured with snap gauge etc)
- rod caps on and torquing to spec, measure the bore diameter
- rod to crank clearances: Rod race diameter minus bearing thickness X 2 + rod journal diameter
- plasti gauged the rod bearings. Install the clean bearings in the rod and rod cap. Bolt them to the crank with a piece of plasti gauge and torque to spec
- ring gap
Build:
Cleanliness cannot be over stressed!
Pre-Assembly:
* clean the threads of any bolts to be re-used.
* Check all gasket and seal mating surfaces for warpage and bent or damaged areas which could result in sealing failures. Clean all gasket surfaces of oil, paint, etc.
* Prime the oil pump with engine oil or assembly lube before installing it on the new engine
* clean the oil pickup tube and screen
* Only use gasket adhesives/sealers where required by the gasket manufacturer
Assembly:
* Use a thread sealer where bolts enter any fluid areas, (coolant or oil) to prevent leakage around threads
* Install a new water pump
* Install new belt drives
* Install new timing belts and any idler/tensioner pulleys that the timing belt contacts
* Inspect motor and transmission mounts
* Inspect the clutch, flywheel, flex plate
* Fill the new oil filter with motor oil before installing.
* Fill the engine with break-in oil
* Prime oil system, i remove the fuel pump and ignition and use the starter to spin the crank and in turn spin the oil pump.
* Install new spark plugs
* Install new air filter, fuel filter, crankcase filter and PCV valve
* Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of new antifreeze/coolant and distilled water.
If the recommended parts above (hoses, belts, water and fuel pumps, spark plugs, etc.) are fairly new and still in “like new” condition, then it will probably be OK to re-use them.
Engine Clean:
- Re-move galley plugs & brush out all oil galleys.
- Use soap and water to wash out cylinders then completely dry with air & linen (no lint), and use light oil in lifter bores, main bore, cylinder walls, etc., after washing.
Crankshaft Installation Guide:
* before dissassembly all parts should be labels and orders kept. E.g. connecting rods, main caps, rod caps etc
* Check connecting rod housing bores for roundness and size using bore gauges or inside micrometers
* Check main bearing bores for alignment and size. This should be done by a shop, they can realign the bores.
* Clean oil passage in crankshafts
* Clean oil passages in engine
* Clean main bearings bores (clean and dry)
* Check oil hole alignment. Bearing locating tangs lines up to feed the oil holes
* You can do a dry fit and use Plastigauge, check tolerances.
* Lube bearing surfaces (use assembly lube)
* Gently and squarely place the crankshaft onto the main bearings. Care should be taken to prevent damage to the bearing flange thrust surfaces. Main caps and bearings must then be installed in proper positions.
* All bolt threads must be cleaned and lightly lubricated to obtain correct torque readings. Final tightening of all bolts must be in accordance with engine manufacturer's specifications. Crankshaft should rotate freely after tightening procedure
* Before installing piston and rod assemblies, rod bolt threads must be covered to prevent damage to crankshaft journals. It is common to use some rubber hose, try and guide the piston down the main bores.
* Ring gaps need to be set, measure rings and file down if needed. Rings can be measured by placing them inside the bore and using the piston to square them up and a feeler gauge to measure.
* Install rings to pistons, lube bores and wrist pins. Assembly lube can be used for the wrist pin where the bores can use engine oil.
* Match rod caps in accordance with cylinder numbers on connecting rods. Torque rod bolts or nuts to manufacturer's specifications.
* By using a feeler gauge, check for proper end clearance between crankshaft thrust and bearing flange to manufacturer's recommendations.
Break in:
After rebuilding your engine, the first few minutes of engine operation are the most critical. Be sure that you do not allow your engine to run under 1500 RPM’s for the first five minutes to one hour! Research tests have shown that if there is no metal pickup (or spalling) during this period, your camshaft will wear as long or longer than the engine’s other components.
Inital Startup Checklist:
* Monitor oil pressure gauge/light
* Visually check for fluid leaks.
* Listen for any unusual noises, (knocking, tapping, scraping, etc.
* Monitor the engine temperature gauge as the engine warms up
*
Breakin Checklist:
* NOTES: Alot of people use mineral oils as breakin if not using breakin oils. You should wait a few 1000km before switching to synthetic oils.
* Detergent keeps the impurities in suspension, so when the oil is drained, the crap comes out.
* Oil FAQ http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/lubricants/company.asp?wp=90
* Constantly monitor gauges/warning lights
* Check the fluid levels daily, correct as needed
* Check for fluid leaks daily
* Change the oil and filter at 200 miles, 1000miles, 2000 miles and every 3000 miles or three months thereafter
* 100miles = 160km
******The first 200 miles of the engines life should be ran at mostly highway and varying speeds.
No comments:
Post a Comment