Sunday, May 12, 2013

How to remove bearings off a differential LSD and RColt Stock Diff Comparison



OK. So i sold my Quaife. I swapped to an ATS LSD? Because i am crazy.
So i had to finally pull apart my smashed gearbox and inspect. Its been sitting for around six months. Everything was sealed and left oiled. So apart it came. Then i decided to test drive my bearing splitters. WOW they worked.
With some retro fitting i was able to remove the bearings.





Looks like the ring gear came in contact with the bearing race. Not to much damage to the ring gear or the output shaft gear.






Sad days, the crack :(































Because the bearing race came loose in the housing it has some wear marks. Nothing major. Bearing were all intact and still spinning

Output shaft close up









Ring gear close up












Extracted












More of the crack











Ring gear removal.









My modified bearing puller. I used a socket to sit directly on the LSD. I then use a nut to free spin between the bearing splitter and the socket.
I lubed it all up due to the tension i knew would be on the parts.






















No need for a butane torch, sweet!











And both successfully removed. I used the rattle gun to slowly drive the bearing splitter tool











Internal photos of the stock differential















Honda P30A Rebuild/Overhaul from a B18C EG Engine Swap




FAKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK
I had a complete blog enter and i accidentally hit reload :( I am sure this version will be very simplified because i am pissed.








Removing the pump 12mm, 14mm and 10mm is all you should need. 19mm for the pulley.
NOTE crack all bolts before removing the pump.
ALSO NOTE THE PULLEY IS REVERSE THREAD.










One of the hydraulic line orings.









The main part of the pump. In here is a magnetic base that hold the floating.... AH
i forgot the name. Anyways becareful pulling it apart, you might lose the fins









oring kit with the power steering shaft seal and bearing.











NOTE POWER STEERING SHAFT PULLEY IS A REVERSE THREAD.










You can see the circlip that needs to be removed prior to punching out the bearing and shaft.











Due to the leaking unit I had to clean the whole thing in kerosene and a toilet brush.










Punch it out via the opposite side. Use a rubber hammer so you done damage the shaft.











All the internals of the pump











The shaft. A real bitch to get out. But keep trying it will come!











 Removing the bearing was another pain in the ass. But doable










 Old vs new












Another close up kit of the package i got for the rebuild.







 Bearing housing

Pressing on the new bearing, the socket is rest on the inner race of the sealed bearing.

























The vanes and the internals of the pump.














 DONT LOSE THESE
















This is a rough breakdown of a pump. I used it as a guide line to know what inside.













































A universal o ring kit i got for backup!
















The belt of the pump

Thursday, May 9, 2013

My Growing Collection Of Forged Builds


Intro
In the next series of posts i hope to touch on some of the beastly builds going around. I gathered some info from the forums as well as Facebook. I hope these builds uncover possible configurations of the Colt. People spent a lot of time and money to make these various configurations work. Researching parts, RnD, fabrication etc.





In summary:
 - Jems build - netting 220kw and pushing for 250-260kw (hub dyno) with a GT2860RS forged bottom end and a complete worked head with stage two cams - TBC (Expired Info)

- Judas build - netting 180kw (roller dyno) and pushing for a clean 200kw with a EFR6258 Build

- Steel - netting 200kw with GTX2860R

- Georg Krüger - Forged internals, headwork (ported) using GT2571


NOTE ON CAMS:
  I am yet to workout the different cams going around but this is some info i got a couple years back when i bought my stage 1 cams and Jem got his stage 2.

This was the only specs I found regarding my possible stage 1 cams.
Stage 1 235/238
Stage 1.5 - 248
Stage 2 - 260
Stage 3 - 272
Stage 4 - 272 (high lift)


Cam Height that i measured:
OEM Specs =
Intake 35.08mm
Exhaust 34.26mm

My Stage 1 Specs =
Intake 35.61mm (0.53+)
Exhaust 35.12mm (.86+)

NOTE ON TURBOS:
* info extracted from Rcolt forums originally donated by Singapore users
STOCK TF035 (My Old Setup - 210hp @ the hubs) Dyno Graph
Requirements: Stock Setup
Suitabillity: MT/CVT
Spool Start (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 1600-2200 RPM
Full Spool (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 2800-3200RPM
Out of Steam (According to Feedback): 3800-4000RPM
Max Boost: 1.2 BAR
Max BHP: 240-245

WRX TD04L (My Setup) Yet to Dyno
Requirements: DKC Turbo Header/Modified Stock Turbo Header + DKC Downpipe/Modified Stock Downpipe
Suitabillity: MT/CVT
Spool Start (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 2000-2800 RPM
Full Spool (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 3400-4400 RPM
Out of Steam (According to Feedback): 5000-5200 RPM**
Max Boost: 1.2 BAR**
Max BHP: 270-280
**Note i run this all the way to redline and boost around 1.4bar on track. We have pulled back some timing to be on the safe side as i run a stock motor

GARRETT GT2860RS (Jems Setup) Small Coverage before the forged build >>>>>
Requirements: DKC Turbo Header/HV Turbo Header + DKC Downpipe/HV Downpipe
Suitabillity: MT
Spool Start (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 3000-3400 RPM
Full Spool (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 4300-4700RPM
Out of Steam (According to Feedback): REDLINE***
Max Boost: 1.5 BAR
Max BHP: 310-370
***Note that Jem is pushing this to around 8k rpm on his built head.

Rcolt Z27AG Forged Build - EFR6258 - Judas Pet Project


Intro
In the next series of posts i hope to touch on some of the beastly builds going around. I gathered some info from the forums as well as Facebook. I hope these builds uncover possible configurations of the Colt. People spent a lot of time and money to make these various configurations work. Researching parts, RnD, fabrication etc.

More background information on build here, work in progress on updates


--------------------------------

Judas
Roller Dyno @ 180fwkw
 - EFR6258 @19psi (plenty more to go)
 - Forged bottom end
 - Jem's fabricator custom manifold to suit
 - stock head and cams

"Basically boost pressure is opposing the valve spring, the valve doesn't close correctly, this results in inconsistent power output, sensitive to tune, and worst of all you don't make the power that it is capable of. thats putting it simply."
















- A fellow Rcolt Modifier "Georg" Pointed out that it could be spark blow out.
"the spark is not strong enough you lost power @ higher rpm´s, the mixture clears the spark"
"have not tried it, but my tuner has noted it that it can be possible by horsepower over 300....the valve springs can make trouble, too @ higher rpm"
If maybe causing the inconsistent power runs




One difference is this manifold has gone for long runners, whereas Jems has gone short runners.

It is a similar design to my manifold custom made by Matt.










Love the lobster claw dump pipe.












HPC coated extractors





















Monday, May 6, 2013

Small Jobs - Civic Overheating Issues & Kia Rio A5D Service

------------------ HONDA ------------------
The Civic 97 was over heating. I checked the car maybe a month and a half before this issue started. It hadn't been serviced in over 1.5yrs.
I did the basic airfilter, oil filter, oil, sparkplugs, checked coolant and cleaned the dizzy.
It didn't look too bad.
After the car had over heated, I couldn't work out if the engine had seized. From what I understood the driver said the car halted. She then let it cooled down and drove home.
In theory if it overheated and lost all the water the engine would have seized and it would have been thrown in the bin.


I did a cooling system pressure test and found a leaky hose. I also replaced the thermostat and the thermostat gasket. The civic uses a rubber gasket. Some cars use paper or liquid gaskets in the thermostat housing.


Gasket P# Dayco DTG35

Tridon replacement thermo

Code: TT328-170
Description:
TRIDON THERMOSTAT 77C - 52MM (DIA), BYPASS

Bypass style thermostat with jiggle pin. Opening Temp: 77c




/techt/thermostat.htm


 - Install thermostat so that the jiggle pin valve is positioned toward the high side of the housing

 - Jiggle valve? this valve prevents air lock from occurring in the cooling system by allowing trapped air to escape while also reducing coolant leakage through the flange

Install notes from http://www.gates.com/

For Offset Thermostats with Jiggle Pin Valves
Caution: Failure to comply with these instructions may result in serious injury.




1. Allow cooling system to cool before servicing.
2. Prevent accidental starting of the engine by removing the ignition key.
3. Drain and flush cooling system.
4. Remove the outlet housing and take out old thermostat and gasket.
5. Clean gasket mounting surfaces.
6. Install thermostat so that the jiggle pin valve is positioned toward the high side of the housing with the copper pellet toward the engine (see installation sketch).
7. Install new gasket or rubber seal.
8. Replace outlet housing. Tighten bolts evenly.
9. Refill cooling system and run engine with radiator cap removed to normal operating temperature while checking for leaks.
10. After engine has reached normal operating temperature, shut off engine and allow engine to cool and recheck coolant level. Add coolant if needed. Test radiator pressure cap and replace if needed. Install radiator pressure cap.

------------------ KIA ------------------


When the Kia was brought to me it had no oil. Well maybe a cup still in it :( It had been burnt and charred. Quickest tell was to look under the oil refill cap and PCV/Bypass lines. As they are clogged and extremely dirty.

Not much can be done but hope for the best. I used an oil additive which flushes the engine. I believe it is pretty much a de-greaser which turns the oil to water.
I haven't done any reading, but just my feeling.
Some people recommend 500ml of diesel into the oil and run for half our. Because of the detergent properties in the diesel. Also kerosene is another example i have come across. I used kerosene to clean the gearbox out.

Some people recommend against these engine flush additives on badly maintained engines. The sludge build up could be preventing leaks e.g. rear main, rocker covers, sump etc.

So many things could be said regarding sludged engines. Could do multiple short term oil changes.
Dont put engine flush in the old oil. Just dump it and put in new oil, run the flush then change to new oil. It all depend on how much you wanna spend and time.

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KC-SxrsgEwo&feature=related