INTRO -
Allows you to fill gearbox without spills and without removing the filler bolt every time.
Also lets you run additional fluid (I run about 2lt, Japanese boys run up to 2.2lt) and no you won't pressize the gearbox as it has a vent on it.
If you are really scared you can put a breather on the end of the hose rather than the blocked hose tail I have provided.
To fill via this device, either use those bottles with the pointed filler/squeezy bottle or a TOM THUMBS pump.
I use Tom's pump because I buy gearbox oil in 5lt cans.
I recommend Neo Racing, Royal Purple and Amsoil.
And no this is not a debate on oils.
Expect at least 3-4 weeks before I close this gb. Bit busy atm.
Gearbox bolts are a M18x1.5
< lubing up the dowty washer
Japanese Description -
Our product is a part of to put more than a specified amount of a normal mission oil.
Product is a utility model acquired parts.
I can expect the effect a simple installation. You can easily MT oil change.
Effect in the parts attached
Injection of 1.5 ℓ many oil 1 ℓ ~ than normal oil specified amount of mission, and suppress the oil temperature rise of the mission oil.
Is designed to maintain the weight of stress-load-bearing pole shear stability of the oil itself, reduce the oil temperature rise.
Is effective in protection mission (such as gear synchro) by securing a reliable oil film.
I will contribute improved shift feel, the long life of the transmission oil.
Continued -
After seeing many people complain about filling their gearbox and not knowing how much fluid to add, spilling fluid, having air pockets blah blah blah
I promoted the idea of my over filler kit I have been using for a couple years now. Inspired by the Japanese one, I decided to piece a kit together.
Not as cheap as one would expect, but I feel after one use it pays itself off.
I have a carbon LSD hence I need to change gearbox fluid.
First developments here: /home-brew-overfill-kit.html
How to change fluid: /how-to-change-your-gearbox-oil-in-rcolt.html
< someone complained the threads aren't long enough, hence i show a comparison
I dont use a washer at all, but i decided to provide a dowty washer which helps seals from leaks and in theory stop noobs over torquing (but i have learnt this is impossible)
OK! PLEASE READ
This is a tapered barb, see how there is 5 barbs. Some gearboxes may not provide clearance to screw it in. You may have to cut off one barb to lower the profile.
I have put it on 3 RColts now without issue.
OK! NEXT PLEASE READ
You install the adapter bung which is a M18x1.5 for the RColt. Install hand tight, and maybe use a spanner or socket to turn it a half turn more. Just so it seats
Then you install the right angle barb, do this hand tight till it stops. You maybe find it points down or to the right etc.
You want it up, so you use a shifting spanner to rotate it. The tapered barb has tapered threads so it will self tighten.
You don't have to hold the bung, it should grab enough to let you turn the tapered barb.
Becareful not to over tighten. ITS LIKE TIGHTENING YOUR HOME TAP TO STOP WATER.Is the best explanation i can think off, a nice tight solid turn till it stop.
<- Install hose clamp
I gave some extra hose, you can cut off un-needed hose. I run it up behind the ABS and over to the ECU out of the way
The dowty, the bung, the right angle tapered barb and the hose clamp
You can add some teflon thread to the right angle barb. Just go around twice, but its not compulsory if your install it correct
The cap, tapered hose tail, hose clamp.
*I use a Toms Pump to fill up via the hose and run 2lts of fluid
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