No Limits - 20/09/2012

I haven't made any changes since last time about besides getting my suspension alignment just right and added new brake pads. Need a brake fluid flush ~1lt and re did all the floating caliper slide pins.
I widen the arches as well.
- Over fenders DIY see here
- Brakes - moved to a new pad XP10 at the front and XP8 at the rear see here
              - bleeders to make life easy see here
- Engine pitch limiter (custom) see here
- new shims see here (I have now corrected my alignment. It took three shots @_@ so not cheap!)

Previous wheel alignment stuff see here
And another attempt here

Waiting ^_^

Short Circuit - No improvements in time @_@ - I think i am loosing confidence and driving is all over the place

According to RaceChrono time was 59.72 (previously was a 59.52 see here)

Long Circuit - I was happy for my first attempt in over a year

According to my RaceChrono theoretical best time is 1:10.67 and i ran a 1:11.32

Drive home

Turbos - TD04 vs Stock Turbo vs TD05

Gate and custom manifold TD04

Custom dump and TD04

TD04 and custom steam pipe manifold

Stock unit.

HPC Stock dump n turbo vs TD05 (Evo VIII MR Turbo?)

Rewelded HPC Coated Manifold.

Info from a Sing Friend:

gd to hear from u...all you have described so far are ok but I would advise u to think 2x for the sti injectors...they really could cause erractic idling cos of the size...furthermore tuning is gg to be tricky in order to maximise the output efficiency of the injectors....go for either 380cc (2L wrx) or 440cc(2.5L wrx)...since you are putting on a fuel regulator, they should work fine complementing each other...

To be frank with you, I just crack my 4th piston due to material fatigue during May this year...very sad about it!! Owned the car for 3 years

I was running td04 setup for near 2 years but I guess the pistons cant really take the abuse over a prolonged period...my specs was round about 285 Bhp, close to 390Nm

my advise : stick to around 250 bhp tops...torque over around 360+/-...my current setup running at high boost 1.1bar, 255 bhp, 364Nm... 

GT turbos are excellent for pickup...another option would be VF35 sti turbo! However, not many in Spore are gg for such big turbos anymore simply bcos of the engine limitation! td04 is ok after tuning, the boost comes in round 2500rpms....its fine since ours using manual tranny! Its pointless to go beyond 260 bhp and start to blow engine, so long theres isnt a proper engine upgrade package developed. It am keeping my fingers crossed for RPW's big step forward to go tis direction!!

let me just say TD04 is a great turbo to go with your desires...higher horsepower and phenomenal torque figures!!!

once the engine internals are really stable, ie. with forged packages coming out, TD04 with 1.2b boost can easily get u to 300bhp, 400Nm!!! Im not kidding cos its been proven over here in Singapore...just that not many have done it cos of the weaken engine...Dont waste extra money to get a good turbo...there wont be much lag...as of now I start boosting around 2500rpm...not an issue really since we are on manual trannies!!

-----------------------  Turbo Extracts from Rcolt & Sing Forums ------------------------

This was taken by wolfe. Thanks to him we all now have a guide to look forward to. This lists all the turbos the SG guys have used and have gained these power figures. Note all cars that pulled this turbos and power numbers are running stock internals, stock clutch, stock gearbox but the ones aiming for higher then 220BHP have larger injectors. Possible to make this a sticky Ryan~ Thnx

STOCK TF035

Requirements: Stock Setup

Suitabillity: MT/CVT

Spool Start (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 1600-2200 RPM

Full Spool (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 2800-3200RPM

Out of Steam (According to Feedback): 3800-4000RPM

Max Boost: 1.2 BAR

Max BHP: 240-245

IHI RHF5

Requirements: DKC Turbo Header/Modified Stock Turbo Header + DKC Downpipe/Modified Stock Downpipe

Suitabillity: MT/CVT

Spool Start (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 1800-2600 RPM

Full Spool (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 3200-4200RPM

Out of Steam (According to Feedback): 4800-5000RPM

Max Boost: 1.2 BAR

Max BHP: 230-250

WRX TD04L

Requirements: DKC Turbo Header/Modified Stock Turbo Header + DKC Downpipe/Modified Stock Downpipe

Suitabillity: MT/CVT

Spool Start (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 2000-2800 RPM

Full Spool (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 3400-4400 RPM

Out of Steam (According to Feedback): 5000-5200 RPM

Max Boost: 1.2 BAR

Max BHP: 270-280

IHI VF35

Requirements: DKC Turbo Header/Modified Stock Turbo Header + DKC Downpipe/Modified Stock Downpipe

Suitabillity: MT

Spool Start (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 3200-3500 RPM

Full Spool (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 4400-4700RPM

Out of Steam (According to Feedback): REDLINE

Max Boost: 1.5 BAR

Max BHP: 290-350

IHI VF28

Requirements: DKC Turbo Header/Modified Stock Turbo Header + DKC Downpipe/Modified Stock Downpipe

Suitabillity: MT

Spool Start (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 3500-3800 RPM

Full Spool (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 4800-5000RPM

Out of Steam (According to Feedback): REDLINE

Max Boost: 1.5 BAR

Max BHP: 290-350

GARRETT GT2860RS

Requirements: DKC Turbo Header/HV Turbo Header + DKC Downpipe/HV Downpipe

Suitabillity: MT

Spool Start (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 3000-3400 RPM

Full Spool (Varies According to Transmission, Setup & Tuning): 4300-4700RPM

Out of Steam (According to Feedback): REDLINE

Max Boost: 1.5 BAR

Max BHP: 310-370

tf035-15t, is basically a tf035/td04 hybrid as mentioned above. anyway the td04 isnt laggy. if you compare it to the stock turbo of cos it is as the stock turbo feels like a big cc car as the boost is almost instant. but for the td04, the lag really isnt that bad at all.

Cusco MCS for Z27AG & Fuel Reg Move

After many positive reviews regarding the MCS i bought one 6 months ago.
I have finally fitted it. Cusco Gear
I didn't find the bolts so i used a M6 nylon nut to bolt it in.

I had to remove the fuel reg from the strut pillar. The MCS required that bolt. Hence the dodgy  temp fitment. Plan it stainless lines and Earls fittings.



























I also attached my custom engine pitch limiter.
There are more vibrations in low RPM. But seems good higher in the rev range.
Custom parts see here >>>

CT530 XP10 Carbotech to the Evo III Twin Pots Rcolt

I was previously on the XP8 and decided to amp it up. Wanna do a real hard lap. The XP8 were just under half and completely faded on the track.
Don't know if its due to the lack of meat on the pad or the brake fluid.
Time will tell.

I believe I did 55 laps over three races on the XP8 and about a years worth of driving. I would say approx 10k km.
That is really impressive!
They would still be good for road. I have put them on the side for now.

Previously i did around 49 laps on the A1RM and just as many km.
Info from: barbagallo-raceway-short-track-19072012.html

Brake research: project-mu-or-carbotech-276mm-or-294mm.html


Carbotech bedding in instructions

Red did the slide pin guides

Old pads ->



































Twin pot parts diagram. Note that the upper bolt has a grommet.
I redid these slides with new PBR pin grease. Blew out the old stuff with degreaser and an air compressor.
I am not running backing plates on the pads this time around.
I intend on adding some copper lubricate/grease.
More on brakes see here

Wide Body Fenders - RColt Version I

After major scrub issues, i decided to figure out how to compensate the 0 offset on the fronts.
No chance of guard rolling i reckon. Well you could get a little bit out of it.
I went with hacking, drilling and grinding. I gained approx 15mm
Fender removal - http://ayu452.blogspot.com.au/2012/09/removing-fenders-wide-body-fender.html
Fender RnD - http://ayu452.blogspot.com.au/2012/09/widebody-over-fenders-on-my-z27ag-rcolt.html


You need a 10 and 12mm sockets and spanners.


New bracing to help hold it all together. Top brace holds out the fender slightly. Bottom one hold the bumper on.










Above is my custom little bracket. Gave me maximum change i wanted. Anymore the A pillar window/fender gap will be visible.




















Cut the side skirt with a grinder to complete the look. Crazy!
But I wanted the job done!

Extra requirements:
-> M8x1.25mm various lengths
-> M6x1mm various lengths
-> wing nuts, nylon nuts etc.
-> rubber grommets and some strapping (no idea what its used for)






Pic to the right is the bracket that hold the fender to the underside of the A pillar window. Anymore space there will be a gap.
















In the far back is the top bolt between fender and door hinge. Tough spot, so i left it without a modified bracket.

Have to somehow strap the skirt i cut off to the chassis. It might fly off

Removing Fenders - Wide Body Fender Examples

I thought i add how to remove the fenders.
I went from the underside, hence the removing of the black plastic liner.
I think there are about 4 10mm bolts and a bunch of those push in black plastic clips.
They are hard to get off with all the sand stuck in them.
I rip them off. You can see more here DIY Widebody/OverFenders

Apart from that i get my hand right up into the guard and start removing the bolts.
Pop the bonnet remove the ones around the headlight.

Some pics I found on Minkara ages ago. Sorry for not having the credits.


<- this is between the door gap





 I didn't remove my front bumper. As i am just trying to widen the fender. I will let you know if i end up removing the bumper.












Removal of fender brace. This shot is the backside of the plastic trim between the door and the fender.

I have removed this black plastic trim.








Top bolts near the headlight and under the plastic trim that clips onto the windscreen wiper plastic guard.











I believe these are a few of the bolts on the top side of the fender brace.

Fender bolts are 12mm from memory the rest are 10mm.




I took these off but one snapped :( try WD40 first.
I didn't remove the plastic guard/trim. I just teased it off enough to get some movement in the fender.
There is double sided tape and push in clips.



















Above is a kit that the Evo boys buy. I think its an Evo Dave kit?
This allows them to do three stage fender mods. Each one increasing the gap. The panel doesn't kink as it follows the contour nicely.

Widebody - Over Fenders on my Z27AG RColt

Its gonna be a fiddly job, but doable. Gotta remove guards etc


Inspired by the wide body Evoz. I need to fit my rims! Camber wasn't enough so i have gone with spacing out the fenders and ripping off the inner guards etc.

Aiming for about 20mm at the door side and tapered down to the 10-15mm around the top.
The front is hard due to the bumper clipping onto the fender :( And the bolts hold onto the headlight as well!

If you Google Evo Dave and Fender mods you will know what i mean.
And see here >>>

I have actually spaced the fender brace out to get a rough idea for now. This fender brace can be upgraded by a Ralliart Part -  RA522425R1 as seen on Minkara
Looks like i will cut the bracket connecting the fender to the fender brace.
I will make small brackets with wing nuts? So I can space it out.
Flares from http://www.topstage.com/shopping/
Ralliart Brace is half the weight.










OEM vs Ralliart








Ralliart item. I believe it comes with new screws

Fender Inner Brace RA522425R1 19,950yen(19,000yen) Right/Left set, Aluminum

RColt Rebuild Pick List - Part Numbers for Z27AG Rebuild

NOTE: This pick list is growing as I find and add parts.

------------------------------- Bearings -------------------------------

The ACL Parts are "old" Satria Proton 4G15 Parts
These parts are yet to be proven. But according to a friend these are legit. Eventually I will do measurements.

Main Bearings - 5M1124 (Half Groove) - OE P# MD147999 - AE Clevite MS2075P **
Hyundai G4AJ 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 2v 257
Hyundai G4DJ 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 3v 257
Mitsubishi 4G15 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 3v 381
Mitsubishi 4G17 1343cc Inline4 SOHC 2v 380
Mitsubishi G13B 1298cc Inline4 SOHC 2v 387
Mitsubishi G15B 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 3v 386

Conrod bearings - 4B1130 - OE P# MD143090 - AE Clevite CB1588AL(4)
Mitsubishi 4G15 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 3v 381
Mitsubishi 4G17 1343cc Inline4 SOHC 2v 380
Mitsubishi G13B 1298cc Inline4 SOHC 2v 387
Mitsubishi G15B 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 3v 386

TBD - Thrust Washer Set - 1T8037 - OE P# MD174862
Mitsubishi 4G91 1496cc Inline4 DOHC 2v 388
Mitsubishi 4G92 1596cc Inline4 DOHC 4v 388
Mitsubishi 4G93 1834cc Inline4 DOHC 4v 388
Mitsubishi 4G93 1834cc Inline4 SOHC 4v 388
Mitsubishi 4G93P 1834cc Inline4 SOHC 4v 388
Mitsubishi 4G93T 1834cc Inline4 DOHC 4v Turbo 369
Proton 4G92 1596cc Inline4 SOHC 4v 464

NOTE: Those ending numbers are pages numbers from www.acl.com.au

Cross reference part numbers are from http://www.aclus.com/content/ACL07.pdf
Other brands include: Enginetech/Mahle/Metal Leve, Federal-Mogul, ITM (Repco), King, Clevite

**The main bearing above is a half groove, there is also a full grove option - 5M1737

Most original equipment main bearings use a "half groove" where the upper bearing shell is grooved but the lower shell is not. The half groove offers increased main bearing surface area for higher fatigue resistance. Full groove provides better rod bearing lubrication but compromises bearing load capacity. Either of these designs work well for most applications, providing a good combination of strength and long life. Racing bearings must perform flawlessly under severe stress. For this reason, we pioneered the 3/4 groove design, which maintains the full surface area in the most highly loaded portion of the lower main bearing, while permitting improved oil flow to the rod bearing. This unique design gives the best of both worlds – ultimate high strength with improved rod lubrication. Crankshafts running with 3/4 groove bearings do not need cross drilling – saving you time and expense while improving crankshaft strength. Doesn't answer my question though. Looking for some experience and knowledge here on this one.

------------------------------- Engine Specs - From Workshop Manual -------------------------------

4G15 Turbo Mivec
Total displacement mL 1,468
Bore × Stroke mm 75 × 82.0
Compression ratio 9.0
Compression chamber Pentroof-type
Valve timing Intake opening BTDC 34° − ATDC 6°
Intake closing ABDC 30° − ABDC 70°
Exhaust opening BBDC 50°
Exhaust closing ATDC 10°
Maximum output kW (PS)/rpm 113 (154)/6,000
Maximum torque N⋅m (kg⋅m)/rpm 210 (21.4)/3,500

------------------------------- Gaskets and Seals -------------------------------

A while ago I was sorting out a pick list for the timing belt 100k km service. While sorting out seals I came across the part numbers. See here Time Belt Part Number Info
* Prices are ~ and are in AUD
-> Head gasket - 1005A886 ~ $100
-> Rocker cover gasket - MD377811 ~ $37
-> Rocker cover spark plug seals - 2 of MD377813 & 2 of MR994294 ~ $11ea
-> Camshaft oil seals - 2 of MD372536 ~ $20ea
-> Intake manifold gasket - MN143690 ~ $20
-> Exhaust manifold gasket - MR552763 ~ $50
-> Crankshaft oil seal front (crank pulley) - MD377999 ~ $25
-> Crankshaft oil seal rear (flywheel) - MD372250 [i have fitted this before see here] ~ $50
-> Timing Belt - MN119379 [manufacture period 2006.05.1 - ] ~ $120
                       - MN158706 is apparently a replacement for the above?
                       - Mitsubishi gave me the MN119379 based on my VIN number
-> Auto belt tensioner - MN119819 ~ $210

Other Parts Numbers I have found (source number from www.rcolt.com):

-> Pulley (Timing Belt Idler) - MN119741 ~ $50
-> Pulley (Timing Belt Tensioner) - MR984714 ~ $50
-> Water Pump - MI-MN155686 ~ $125
-> Alternator Belt - MN195737 ~ $80
-> AC - MN137180 ~ $90


Russian Parts Catalogue - See Here - Timing Belt Parts
Mitsubishi EPC Date - Z27AG

------------------------------- Machining -------------------------------

I heard some good stuff about these guys. Wanna drop my head off to them - http://www.headtorque.com

------------------------------- Cross Referencing - TBC - Please Ignore for Now-------------------------------

Possible Head Gasket?
4g15 DOHC Cylinder head Gasket - part no: MD331145
this gasket works for the 4g1E
*4g13EFI
*4g15DOHC/*SOHC EFI
*4g18 SOHC

Cams
4G13 & 4G15
4G91/4G92




My Head Gasket, not sure the orientation:

The second photo below looks like i got the orientation right :)