Over Fill Kit Installation - Gearbox Oil Filler for a Getrag 4G15

INTRO - 

Allows you to fill gearbox without spills and without removing the filler bolt every time.
Also lets you run additional fluid (I run about 2lt, Japanese boys run up to 2.2lt) and no you won't pressize the gearbox as it has a vent on it.
If you are really scared you can put a breather on the end of the hose rather than the blocked hose tail I have provided.
To fill via this device, either use those bottles with the pointed filler/squeezy bottle or a TOM THUMBS pump.
I use Tom's pump because I buy gearbox oil in 5lt cans.
I recommend Neo Racing, Royal Purple and Amsoil.
And no this is not a debate on oils.
Expect at least 3-4 weeks before I close this gb. Bit busy atm.
Gearbox bolts are a M18x1.5
< lubing up the dowty washer



Japanese Description - 
Our product is a part of to put more than a specified amount of a normal mission oil.
Product is a utility model acquired parts.
I can expect the effect a simple installation. You can easily MT oil change.
 Effect in the parts attached
Injection of 1.5 ℓ many oil 1 ℓ ~ than normal oil specified amount of mission, and suppress the oil temperature rise of the mission oil.
Is designed to maintain the weight of stress-load-bearing pole shear stability of the oil itself, reduce the oil temperature rise.
Is effective in protection mission (such as gear synchro) by securing a reliable oil film.
I will contribute improved shift feel, the long life of the transmission oil.

Continued - 
After seeing many people complain about filling their gearbox and not knowing how much fluid to add, spilling fluid, having air pockets blah blah blah

I promoted the idea of my over filler kit I have been using for a couple years now. Inspired by the Japanese one, I decided to piece a kit together.
Not as cheap as one would expect, but I feel after one use it pays itself off.
I have a carbon LSD hence I need to change gearbox fluid.
First developments here: /home-brew-overfill-kit.html
How to change fluid: /how-to-change-your-gearbox-oil-in-rcolt.html



< someone complained the threads aren't long enough, hence i show a comparison

I dont use a washer at all, but i decided to provide a dowty washer which helps seals from leaks and in theory stop noobs over torquing (but i have learnt this is impossible)






OK! PLEASE READ
This is a tapered barb, see how there is 5 barbs. Some gearboxes may not provide clearance to screw it in. You may have to cut off one barb to lower the profile.

I have put it on 3 RColts now without issue.









OK! NEXT PLEASE READ
You install the adapter bung which is a M18x1.5 for the RColt. Install hand tight, and maybe use a spanner or socket to turn it a half turn more. Just so it seats





Then you install the right angle barb, do this hand tight till it stops. You maybe find it points down or to the right etc.
You want it up, so you use a shifting spanner to rotate it. The tapered barb has tapered threads so it will self tighten.
You don't have to hold the bung, it should grab enough to let you turn the tapered barb.
Becareful not to over tighten. ITS LIKE TIGHTENING YOUR HOME TAP TO STOP WATER.Is the best explanation i can think off, a nice tight solid turn till it stop.

<- Install hose clamp







I gave some extra hose, you can cut off un-needed hose. I run it up behind the ABS and over to the ECU out of the way




The dowty, the bung, the right angle tapered barb and the hose clamp

You can add some teflon thread to the right angle barb. Just go around twice, but its not compulsory if your  install it correct




The cap, tapered hose tail, hose clamp.


*I use a Toms Pump to fill up via the hose and run 2lts of fluid

Progress Yet Again - Forged 4G15 Turbo Makes It Way Home

If you have been following the build, it has almost reached turn the key stage
/adams-forged-ralliart-colt-long-motor.html
And as always, I try to document it all.





All the tools needed to build an engine. This engine is not in my home so every weekend I must visit it.








Scoping out the gearbox mount, I see another project.
We remove mounts as we plan to pull the engine up into them









Last time it should see the crane, we hope.







The gearbox needs to drop below the chassis rail so that the engine can be lowered in.
We do by maximising the install angle, getting the gearbox under the rail, lower it as much as possible then rotate into position then lift it into
the mounts.




























Then we put the alternator on and belt, plenum mount and a few other small things.










Fuel EVAP delete :) So much cleaner. YAY!







Re-used the one way valve that was coming from the throttle body so that the tank doesn't get pressurised when on boost
In theory when the tank pressure builds up, this valve will release the fumes.
I plugged the other end into the OEM EVAP canister exhaust line





And here i mount the EVAP canister bracket for a fuel reg, out of the way and away from heat.

Learning How to CAD - If you want it done right, do it yourself

One thing with cars I have realised is that its hard to find good people. Well, unless you can afford them @_@
So I set off on a journey to learn things myself. And here I am.

As seen here:
/diy-dog-bones-for-my-ucf30-calipers.html








To get a set of brackets from Japan costs $1000AUD, I have no idea how much I need to invest doing it myself, but its the satisfaction.

DiY Dog Bones for My UCF30 Calipers - Ralliart Colt 4pot Conversion

Previous posts on my UCF30 calipers:

/ls400ucf20-or-ls430ucf30-front-brake.html
/calipers-arrived-ucf30ls430-sumitomo.html
/monoblock-rebuild-kit-04479-50130-lexus.html








Next step is to make my mounts in wood so I can get some rough dimensions.
Then to get them done in some billet aluminium.
Then to invest in some bigger rotors, then to restore my pair of 16x8 wheels so that I can clear the brakes :)
Minimum is a 16" wheel to clear the bigger brakes. I will have to use my 20mm spacer as well.








I rarely work with wood, so making the shapes was harder than expected. I used my airsaw, dremel and bits and pieces to craft the shape. Surprisingly the bolts actually threaded into the wood lol.
They are M12x1.25 by 25mm.










Using the dremel to cut out a recess for the offset bit.





















The offset bit wasn't longer enough :( by a whole 10mm FARK!
So I had to extend it, I used another piece of wood and made some dowels.

















Currently it just touches the rim, i know why. It the wood, it needs to be shaved down ~4mm






Thats how the bracket looks, it needs a lot of trimming.





Bolts I use to hold on my Evo 3 calipers.

Adams Forged Ralliart Colt Long Motor Completed - 1000A265 short engine assy ~$3800 NZ

/4g15-mivec-forge-build-nearing.html
/final-stage-of-forged-4g15-mivec-build.html

Finally closed the head, installed the rocker cover. I re-torqued the head studs to 85ftlb, three steps.
I double checked the tension on the timing belt, measured the gap to be around 4.5mm.

/z27ag-4g15-oil-port-modification-head.html





> Thermostat housing went on.
 > timing covers
 > new rear main
 > flywheel & clutch
 > rocker covers
> new clutch fork and bearing
>gearbox to engine shield







Realised a few more parts that I didn't have:
MR985190 GASKET,THROTTLE BODY
MD614813 O-RING,FUEL INJECTOR
MD087060 INSULATOR,FUEL INJECTOR








Being a turbo car, boost leaks in the throttle body, injector insulators, intake gaskets etc can be more serious. Hence I wanted to go and replace the fuel injector grommets/insulators

How to install my new rear camber shims v1

IMPORTANT

All wheels & wheel fixings must be installed by a competent individual with the necessary expertise to ensure that a suitable product has been supplied, and that it has been fitted correctly.

I will not be held responsible for wheels coming off, premature hub bearing damage and any other issues that could occur due to increased camber & fitment of this product.

Download Installer Guide Here: Shim Template Guide


1degree vs 1.5 vs 2












The Colt is wearing 2degrees.  The right amount to stop scrub.







The items.






Remove:
1) wheels
2) brakes calipers > rotor > ABS sensor
3) four bolt in the rear of the hub

U need:
 - star bits, allows you to remove the brake caliper
 - Thinks it's a 13mm and 15mm and six point star to remove brakes
 - Wire brush
 - Wd40
 - loctite (blue)
 - socket set
 - open end spanners
 - M10x1.5x30mm, i went slightly longer by 5mm (stock from memory is M10x1.5x25mm )

How to remove brakes (a video!):
/z27agrcolt-new-stud-and-how-to-remove.html

/rear-rotor-upgrade-p1.html
/rear-rotor-upgrade-p2.html

Background Information:
/rear-shim-rcolt-draft-design.html
/sending-shims-to-act-rear-torsion-beam.html
/fitting-camber-shim.html

Summary:
/camber-shim-flash-back-for-torsion-beam.html
Basically from no rear camber (stock is about 1ish) to 3 degrees of camber and 4mm of toe, I then used the shim rotation to almost zero the toe. From 4mm I went to 1mm.

Further Reading:
/wheel-alignment-notes-tbc.html

Start Now!

Using the right tools are important, an open end spanner holds the slide bolt from spinning as you take out with the holding bolt, 13mm.

Make sure handbrake is off, you may have to bash the calliper off the disc with a RUBBER HAMMER.

Then you need to remove with calliper mounting bracket with the torx 6pt stars, then the disc and you are left with this.

This is the rear of the hub, remove the ABS sensor first, the wire. Be delicate with it.

Then remove the four bolts holding the hub on, at this point i would snap off the outer heat-shield. Bend it back and forth like you would do with a coke can tab.

Clean surfaces, all mounting faces. Install shim (you can zero it later was the hub is almost tight, stop it slipping). 

Bolting it all together, some people has a notch in there shim, you can use this to turn it with a flat head screwdriver, making sure its zero or where you want it to me. Half way in the notch should give about 3mm of toe. Max I would imagine give about 5mm.

More photos here: /fitting-camber-shim.html

Torque your bolts as tight as you can go. I would tighten each one up evenly, not just do one to the max then the next. Get them all biting into the hub so you know its sitting flat before you torque them.