Cross fingers we don't have too many teething issues.
Have noticed the manifold nuts are coming loose, might have to get some cone lock nuts on it.
The small vibrations are shaking them off, or some nice spring washers.
Looks like we have some oil leaking, I have yet to investigate.
New clutch seems to drive fine.
Brakes might be due for a bleed after sitting so long.
No obvious loud suspension noises or bad bearings for sitting too long.
The oracle / wizard / genius is priming the fuel pump and setting base fuel pressure
I dont know what i would do without him
Base fuel pressure of 3km/cm2 ~ 42psi
I am using some stocking to filter out any contaminants still in the water jacket.
I used a denier 7 - Denier may refer to: Denier (unit), a unit of linear mass density of fibers
You can actually buy radiator filters, but i love the touch of ghetto. This will be used for 20mins of engine break-in.
Removing any air in the system.
Bye bye fuel evap cannister crap.
Add we had to tow it home :)
We got very lucky while at the servo checking fluids:
/hks-oil-cap-almost-destroys-forged-build.html
Our break-in procedure:
- idle between 2000rpm and 2500 until warm - vary throttle - lean out the tune
- small squirts up to 3000/4000 after warm
- do this for 20mins
- drop oil, remove radiator filter (more here), change oil filter and new oil (we use OEM filter)
- hit the road - max boost 7psi max rpm 4000
- keep this setup till 1500km - will probably change oil @ 500km
- some say max throttle 1/4, but i think as long as you are varying and running through the gears
- use engine braking as much as possible to create a vacuum and pull the rings into the bores
- check for leaks, fluid loss, radiator water contamination etc
After complete break-in then it will hit the dyno & will try air bleed the lifters (see here)
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