Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Links I Like


///My Links in addition to http://ayu452.blogspot.com/2011/06/jdm-garages-for-z27ag.html

///Car photographer blogs:
good rig shots: http://orlandoech.com/blog/

///Car Blogs
http://www.canibeat.com/
http://speedhunters.com/
http://www.jdmstyletuning.com/
http://clubitr.com.au/
http://zengarage.com.au
http://ameblo.jp/bfmfullblast-blog/
http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/692351/profile/
http://maiham-media.com/

///Photography
http://jonaspeterson.com/
http://yowayowacamera.com/
http://hisajihara.com/
http://mem-inc.jp/topics/exhibitions_e/
http://miyukiohashi.net/
http://kozi-etoh.com/
http://www.lukehuxhamfilms.com/

///Travel
http://www.japanbiking.com
http://www.travellerspoint.com
http://www.jimmychin.com/
http://www.lonelyplanet.com
http://www.passplanet.com

///Shopping
http://www.tinydeal.com

///Others
http://vimeo.com/yunazarai


///Minkara
over view: http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/18146/blog/
Rcolt Member: http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/389636/car/316136/parts.aspx
              http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/661123/car/585393/parts.aspx
              http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/338076/car/487456/profile.aspx
ColtSpeed: http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/309947/profile/

Saturday, August 27, 2011

Solid Engine Mount & Tein Coil Overs

Currently i am using Tein Super Compact with spring rate F3kg/mm, R3kg/mm
Can't remember i alway thought the rears were 2.7kg/mm. So long ago now. Non adjustable camber tops.
Only the mono flex super expensive series does this.
Found some more info on JDM coils on the forums:
1) Tein MonoFlex with spring rate F:5,R:4
2) HKS coilover S.Compact with spring rate F5, R3.5
3) Cusco Compact S with spring rate F6, R3.3







































Can find the cheaper
BC Racing Coilovers comming with F5:R4 or any other spring you want.

You can find KW and KSport as well.
A also added a solild engine brace mount much like the colt speed on that has two different bushes. This unit uses nolathane bushes and centre crush tubes.
Bit More Info on the Coilovers:

RS*R
i–SHOCK WAGON
Part No. IWB720S
JPY 127,050
Suitable Models:Z27A
Z23A (G78K)
Z27AG (Unknown)
Front:Height Adjustment (mm): –15 to –55
Upper Mount: Nil
Spring Rate (kgf/mm): 4.0
Rear:Height Adjustment (mm): –10 to –55
Upper Mount: Nil
Spring Rate (kgf/mm): 3.2
Remark: Rear height adjustment by spacer system.

TEIN
Basic Compact
Part No. GSR82-H1AS2
JPY 99,750
Suitable Models:Z27A
Z23A (Unknown)
Z27AG (vern)
Front:Height Adjustment (mm): –35 to –65
Upper Mount: Nil
Spring Rate (kgf/mm): 3.0
Rear:Height Adjustment (mm): –15 to –45
Upper Mount: Nil
Spring Rate (kgf/mm): 2.7

YR-Advance - Diff Back Exhaust Tip

YR Advance hot cat back exhaust! Top quality. Pity now it all dirty and I have to clean it real good. Plus RPW hacked it up to mate it with the rest of the exhaust rather than putting a flange on it @_@
Think it cost me about 700AUD over 2 years ago.











Lucky number 70 :)

I also have the YR Advance airbox and I did use the YR advance boost solenoid (+.2bar). All great products. Pity yen is so expensive






I love the welds so hot!
Couldn't afford the titanium tip at the time.

UR Racing Bars

Couple years ago i bought the UR bars for the normal Colt to stick on my colt. The quality is pretty average but 1/3 of the price of Japanese made ARB. I added a rear strut (which is now sold because i thought it was to stiff, Centre ARB and rear sway bar).
Rear sway bar, pretty crap mounts. Looking at replacing it with a Cusco unit over the whiteline
Centre rear ARB.

Friday, August 26, 2011

Clutch Bed In Procedure


Found some killer info on http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17649 by Al & Claire [see below]
Bit more of a technical version http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/clutch/
And while I am at it engine break in http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
----------------------------------
Paddle/Puck or Button
These clutches are sometimes quite unusually shaped and have relatively small areas of friction lining on each paddle. This serves to reducing the overall contact area acting upon the flywheel when compared to a full-face clutch. With no other accompanying changes, fitting one of these will give a higher maximum clamping pressure (pressure = force / area) and will therefore deliver more resistance to slip.

Isaac there are, however, some problems with simply installing a paddle clutch with no other changes. Because the total contact area of the clutch is reduced, the rate of lining wear is increased, clutch engagement is more sudden and shudder can also be encountered on take-off.

Full-Face Type

The vast majority of factory cars come equipped with a full-face clutch plate. These have a friction lining that extends around the entire periphery of the clutch plate with no large gaps. Full-face clutches offer smooth engagement and a long service life but, depending on the chosen friction material, require a highly rated pressure plate in a performance application, or they wont last very long.

Hybrid type

There are combination full-face/paddle clutches now appearing in the form of full (or near full) circle clutch plates, which are fitted with small areas of friction material. These come with a varying amount of lining area and are a great compromise for someone after some of the advantages of both full-face and paddle clutches.

The appropriate pressure plate rating and engagement smoothness depends on the area of the lining material of the individual clutch plate. The clutch plate itself is often more substantial in construction when compared to the more sculpted paddle types - the trade-off being increased mass.

Multi-Plate type

Multi-Plate clutches are becoming increasingly popular in the aftermarket, especially amongst high-performance Japanese vehicles like ours. But theoretically, they should only be used where there isn't enough room for a larger diameter clutch. In the case of a multi-plate design, the total friction area is greatly increased, as there are multiple clutch plates. The advantages include an ability to get away with low rated pressure plate, which gives lighter pedal weight. The trade-offs are the possibility of shudder and noise during operation. Only the more expensive high-performance factory vehicles, such as the twin-turbo V8 Lotus Esprit, run a twin-plate clutch as standard, i havent heard of any other vehicle requiring it, unless someone else knows different.

Inners................................ 

Clutch Centres and Cushioning
Most factory cars come fitted with a sprung centre to aid engagement smoothness. These units have a series of small springs located radially around the hub that allow the clutch assembly to rotate slightly upon engagement to the flywheel. This helps to smooth out any torsional fluctuations and vibration that would otherwise be passed on through the driveline and cabin. Damping the movement of these springs are small friction washers fitted between the hub, retainer and adapter plate.

Not surprisingly, a solid centre clutch plate doesn't have any springs fitted as the cushioning media. And because there is no "give" upon engagement, its operation is much more ragged - making it less suitable for road use. The primary goal of a solid centre is to achieve the highest possible strength and durability under extreme conditions, ie performance cars.

However, solid centres can sometimes be used conjunction with a "marcel backing" around the outer edge of full-face clutches. The marcel is a wavy material-lined backing on the clutch plate, which gets progressively compressed and released against the flywheel and pressure plate in relation to pedal movement. This design is sometimes used when some form of softening is required on the take-up of the pedal, and when space limitations within the hub prevent bigger hub springs from being fitted. The bigger hub springs are used when backing a high-torque engine.

I previously mentioned the Lotus Esprit uses this design to soften the operation of its factory multi-plate clutch arrangement. For a road car, this has a positive effect on clutch pedal feel between the engaged and disengaged positions.

Clutch Linings

There are three main types of clutch lining material available, with combinations of any two able to be bonded and/or riveted on either side of the clutch plate. Note that for each type of lining, alumimium or steel backings can be specified. This reduces the likelihood of high rpm clutch explosions, while the aluminium type backings have the advantage of reduced mass when compared to steel. The thickness of the clutch lining is also important. Thick linings offer longer service life and smoother operation, but aren't as suitable for race or competition applications. This is because their thickness doesn't offer quite as fast engagement, which equates to slower gear-change capabilities, its not always just down to the gearbox or your syncros !

Material

Organic

Organic linings are most frequently used on factory bog-stock cars as they are durable, smooth, easy on mating surfaces and cheap to manufacture. In a performance application though, they frequently show their intolerance to heat build up and clutch slip inevitably occurs.

Kevlar

Kevlar, like organic linings, needs a fairly high clamping pressure to maintain grip. This is because Kevlar's co-efficient of friction is similar, at around 0.30 and 0.35. Its biggest advantage over organics is its ability to withstand large amounts of heat. As a guide, up to 40-50% more can be endured, so long as it is being used in conjunction with a highly rated pressure plate. It also places virtually no wear on its mating surfaces and it quite a has smooth operation so I have heard.

Ceramic

Of all types of linings, ceramics offer the highest co-efficient of friction at around 0.48-0.55. This means they can be used with a lower clamping force pressure plate as the lining provides the grip. But because of this attribute, they cause a lot of wear on mating surfaces and shudder can be commonly encountered. Ceramics can take more heat than an organic material, but deliberately slipping the clutch tends to burn up the flywheel and pressure plate more than the lining. Made up from sintered bronze with ceramic material mixed in, there are a few different brands available that vary in their carbon content, but they are all mainly suitable for competition use and very expensive should you even want to find one for your Skyline.

Pressure Plates/Clutch Covers

Pressure plates squeeze the clutch plate against the flywheel, so they're obviously largely responsible for the total amount of holding force generated. Car manufacturers usually aim to achieve a light clutch pedal weight to make driving easier, and they do this by using a fairly marginal pressure plate load rating. The good news is the clamping force of an OE pressure plate can usually be increased by 50-100% by altering the fulcrum point and swapping or re-shaping the diaphragm. However, this amount depends on the location of the factory fulcrum point and the quality of the OE part can also be a concern. Some cars, such as Toyota GT-4 turbos, only have scope for another 10% pressure in which case an aftermarket pressure plate is usually required.

The maximum tolerable pedal weight is merely an individual opinion, but note that clutch cables (where fitted) can be stretched or overloaded if you go too far. On the other hand, cars fitted with hydraulic clutch actuation can be fitted with a pressure plate of substantially more load rating without excessive pedal pressure. Note that with a too highly rated pressure plate, it can also be possible to bend or break clutch forks and strain engine crankshaft bearings.

----------------------------------
In summary i believe i run a paddle/puck design Kevlar clutch disc. This allows for a much higher clamping force even though the surface/contact area is reduced. It also helps reduce heat.

CHARACTERISTICS
A high-durability material more resistant to hard use. Engagement is similar to organic, but may glaze slightly in stop-and-go traffic, resulting in slippage until worn clean when used hard again. Higher temp range in general, but can be ruined from overheating - will not return to original characteristics if "cooked". Has a break-in period of 500-1000 miles during which slippage may occur. Care must be taken during this period not to overheat from excessive slipping. Material is uniform yellow/green and may look slightly fuzzy when new.
500 miles = 800km
USE
Used in street-driven track cars up to 500hp, auto-x and heavy track use. Will take hard use, intolerant of abuse (will overheat and not recover completely). Due to the unforgiving nature of Kevlar, it is not recommended for street cars, especially those that see frequent stop-and-go traffic which will cause surface glazing of the clutch.

Cool little image about what clutch will suit which application:

Thursday, August 25, 2011

Recoil Engine Brace Mount Z27AG

Engine brace mount bolt pulled out the threads M12x1.5mm 20mm.
Had to recreate a thread using a recoil or helicoil kit. Over size the hole to 31/64, tap it out with the provided tap and insert the coil. I used engine oil as lube.
More info here http://ayu452.blogspot.com/2011/08/thread-repair-maybe-heli-coil_24.html
I drilled the hole to about 23mm the depth i measured at 26mm. Gave myself 3mm buffer.













































Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Thread Repair, Maybe a Heli Coil @_@ - M12x1.5x20mm

Heli Coil repair specs - http://www.helicoil.in/
Buying heli coils in perth http://www.searlefasteners.com.au/, http://www.coventryfasteners.com.au, https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/, http://www.afsrecoil.net/en/Products/Tooling.html
Another tool - thread rebuilder - http://www.timesert.com/
Also Keenserts http://alcoafastener.thomasnet.com/ and Recoil
----------
Some info from http://factoidz.com/

A bolt hole or nut’s internal threads strip when the bolt or nut is over tightened. Soft aluminum parts are notorious for stripped bolt holes

Still have a question?
Bolt threads are available in both metric and standard, sometimes called SAE or USS, threads. SAE threads are sometimes called fine threads and USS are sometimes called coarse threads. It is important to determine which thread type, thread pitch and the diameter of the bolt hole before trying to repair the stripped threads. Metric and standard look similar but are not interchangeable. An example would be a standard thread 1/4 - 13 X 2 bolt’s diameter is 1/4 inch and has 13 threads per inch and is 2 inches long. A similar looking bolt, but not interchangeable, is the metric thread M6 - 1.75 X 50 bolt. It has a 6-mm diameter with a thread pitch, the distance between threads, of 1.75 mm and is 50 mm long. Before repairing threads always match a bolt to the hole then repair the hole using that bolt as a guide.

Most stripped threads are only partially stripped. These can be repaired with a tap and die set. A tap cuts female threads in a hole and a die creates male threads on a post. To repair a partially stripped bolt hole; clean the hole with a light oil then dip a tap into a heavy oil. Place the tap into the hole and start screwing the tap into the hole with fingers. Use care to avoid cross-threading the tap with the stripped threads. Once the tap has finger tightened place the tap’s handle or a wrench on the tap’s end and turn two full turns, then remove the tap. Clean the tap in oil and repeat the process until the hole has solid threads.

If a hole’s threads are badly damaged, then the hole needs an overhaul. There are two easy solutions. The first solution require drilling the hole to the next largest size. Then create new threads with the next sized tap. Always keep the tap well oiled and clean. This process takes patience but the finished product is as strong as a factory created thread.

The second solution involves using an after market thread repair kit. An example would be a Heli-Coil kit. These kits include a tap, a threaded insert and a setting tool. Using these kits still involves drilling the hole with a larger sized drill bit, the kit will specify the correct sized bit. Run the included tap into the hole. Place an insert onto the setting tool and screw the insert into the hole. when complete the hole will accept the same sized bolt as the original.
----------

Found a person that can come onsite...Not sure if he is still in the business: Peter Whiteford Thread Repairs 0438068166 in Joondalup

Install of the Swaybar linkage - Custom OEM 4056A054



















http://ayu452.blogspot.com/2011/08/shift-linkage-bushes.html
http://ayu452.blogspot.com/2011/06/sway-barstabilizer-link-rnd-z27ag.html


Mitsubishi sells each pair - P# 4056A054


http://minkara.carview.co.jp/

http://ayu452.blogspot.com/2011/08/gearbox-drop-part-7-broken-gear-linkage.html



http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Custom-Bushes/A_112233/article.html










For the OEM bush -
~15.5mm height
~28mm OD
~8mm ID

Solid Shifter Linkage and Custom Swaybar Linkages

Got a fabricator to custom make me a solid shifter bush and trim some sway bar linkage rubbers and insert a crush tube.
Bought some universal sway bar linkage rubbers. Trimmed 3mm off the thicker end and got a crush tube 8mm ID and 10mm OD to get pressed into them. I noticed the stock ones were tearing. Hence the crush tube.







How to get at and install them:
http://ayu452.blogspot.com/2011/06/sway-barstabilizer-link-rnd-z27ag.html
The original rubbers i bought:
http://ayu452.blogspot.com/2011/08/gearbox-drop-part-8-morning-shopping.html







Trimmed away 3mm because the stock swaybar linkage rubber uses a flared edge/recess where the washer goes into.

12mm camber bolts in the background









The original pressed in rubber grommet shell. The original grommet isn't solid and uses an air pocket to cushion the shifting.
Apparently was a bitch! to get out.
And cut the ball stud caps out of the older rubber to put it in the new one

Monday, August 22, 2011

Z27AG Evo Twin Pot Pads n Rotors P2

17mm bolt holding the caliper on. I put new slide pin grease only a couple months ago. Dam expensive grease. But I did check it, still golden. 3 track days later.
The DBA 4000 series rotor uses a painted centre, hopefully it does rust out...unlike the RDA cheaper ones.







Looks like i did the brake pads last year July http://ayu452.blogspot.com/2010/07/z27ag-brake-service.html

These pads are in much better condition than the EBC ones.







Run-in instructions for the pads












DBA install tips and instructions


DBA 4402SL according to the box.
used on a 6/92-1/93 Mitsubishi Galant AWD - Turbo - Front (so i found)
bought through Todd/runuts. top bloke. provides more info than u can digest and happy to help. as ebay says 5 stars :)
From DBA:
MITSUBISHI > LANCER EVO > I
MITSUBISHI > LANCER EVO > II
MITSUBISHI > LANCER EVO > III
MITSUBISHI > GALANT > HH5 VR4 Turbo
MITSUBISHI > GALANT > AWD Turbo (USA)

I think in the 5000series they are DBA DBA-402X fits?
1993 Mitsubishi Galant
1992 Mitsubishi Galant
I think it is just a 4000 Series with a gold hat. Not a 2 piece like the 5000 series.
Hence compatible models with the evo calipers on the Z27AG
DBA402X Street Series Gold (cross-drilled & slotted) 276 x 24
DBA402SL Street Series Slotted Left-Hand 276 x 24
DBA402SR Street Series Slotted Right-Hand 276 x 24

According to forum postS:
stock rotors are 25.8mm width and minimum thickness is 24mm - Diameter of stock rotors are 256mm DBA2226
RDA 24mm width discs

Hyundai option, which is spot on in terms of the diameter, and max-min thicknesses













It looks like the Evo III casting is a 4304 and the VR4 is a 2207 & 2311. I use the 2311 casting on my car, as it doesn't use a banjo bolt brake line fitting i believe it is a VR4/Magna etc caliper and not a Evo III.
In theory it will have a smaller piston be 1-2mm, which i have yet to confirm.

Year            Description                       Bracket # Casting # Pad #
GALANT
6/90-1992 VR4 AWD / AWS Turbo 2207 2207 D-530

ECLIPSE
1993-94 AWD Turbo  2-Piston       2207      2207 D-530
1995-1999 AWD Turbo                  2207        4304   D-530

3000GT
1991-99 2WD  2-Piston                      2207 2311 D-530

DIAMANTE
1991-96 2-Piston                              2207 2311 D-530


Z27AG Evo Twin Pot Pads n Rotors P1

So while pulling out the clutch i noticed i had shot through my old RDA rotors. Think it has been just under 2 years ago i added them. approx. 40,000km later, 1 skim and about 4 or 5 track days.
They stood up to a green stuff ebc pad and a A1RM pad.
I have now bought Carbotech XP8 to test out. Have only heard great things. Double the price of the A1RM.
EBC green were demolished. They over heated and cracked up. View my early posts.


http://ayu452.blogspot.com/2010/07/z27ag-brake-service.html
Actually I can't remember if I did two sets of A1RM @_@

Standard clamp to push the piston back. Master cylinder almost made it...but it over flowed @_@.
My car is on really high standard at the front.









The new running gear :) Can't wait for barbs. 60sec run?











Bit of anti squeal. A red sticky glue that goes onto the brake pad/caliper shim.


Saturday, August 20, 2011

Z27AG Paint Job - Experiment

Wanted to paint the interior trims red like the JDM Rcolt. The speedo is red.
Started with a light sanding about about 4 light coats of metallic red. Color was closer then I had imagined.
According to a forum post i read, the interior trims are the same color as the red Z27AG. So, it worked out pretty sweet they matched :)








First coat in the sun light










About 2/3 coats in.











Ran out of paint, but about 3 coats and 1 hour dry time. It might darken more. But pretty happy with it.
Might add a clear coat on top?



Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Shift Linkage Bushes


Gearbox torque specs from a Jap LSD install manual


































Needed to pull it out. One of the bushes are stuffed. Place in Perth should hopefully rebuild it @_@
Checked out flexible drive agencies in welshpool. They make custom cables. No luck
Checked out Polyrubber, nice guys but still no go
Mitsubishi quoted $255 for the cables (set). Better price than i expected
Think i going down the machinist route for about $70. Solid bush or something similar
Another shop i have been recommended is http://www.apt-polyurethane.com.au/

Window Tint 20grade B4 and After

While the car wasn't mobile a friend of a friend came to do some 20 grade tint. I believe the darkest legal tint available. I only got the fronts done and the front A pillar window


A pillar not done, passenger window in progress










A pillar not done, passenger window in progress











Civic 08 before hand









Civic 08 after. Should darken when glue sets









Door skin is held on by 10 or so clips around the outer edge and 2 screws. One in door handle and one in door arm rest.
Once skin is removed window skirt can be pulled out