Monday, March 10, 2014

Progress Yet Again - Forged 4G15 Turbo Makes It Way Home




If you have been following the build, it has almost reached turn the key stage
/adams-forged-ralliart-colt-long-motor.html
And as always, I try to document it all.





All the tools needed to build an engine. This engine is not in my home so every weekend I must visit it.








Scoping out the gearbox mount, I see another project.
We remove mounts as we plan to pull the engine up into them









Last time it should see the crane, we hope.







The gearbox needs to drop below the chassis rail so that the engine can be lowered in.
We do by maximising the install angle, getting the gearbox under the rail, lower it as much as possible then rotate into position then lift it into
the mounts.




























Then we put the alternator on and belt, plenum mount and a few other small things.










Fuel EVAP delete :) So much cleaner. YAY!







Re-used the one way valve that was coming from the throttle body so that the tank doesn't get pressurised when on boost
In theory when the tank pressure builds up, this valve will release the fumes.
I plugged the other end into the OEM EVAP canister exhaust line





And here i mount the EVAP canister bracket for a fuel reg, out of the way and away from heat.















Friday, March 7, 2014

Learning How to CAD - If you want it done right, do it yourself





One thing with cars I have realised is that its hard to find good people. Well, unless you can afford them @_@
So I set off on a journey to learn things myself. And here I am.

As seen here:
/diy-dog-bones-for-my-ucf30-calipers.html








To get a set of brackets from Japan costs $1000AUD, I have no idea how much I need to invest doing it myself, but its the satisfaction.






Monday, March 3, 2014

DiY Dog Bones for My UCF30 Calipers - Ralliart Colt 4pot Conversion






Previous posts on my UCF30 calipers:

/ls400ucf20-or-ls430ucf30-front-brake.html
/calipers-arrived-ucf30ls430-sumitomo.html
/monoblock-rebuild-kit-04479-50130-lexus.html








Next step is to make my mounts in wood so I can get some rough dimensions.
Then to get them done in some billet aluminium.
Then to invest in some bigger rotors, then to restore my pair of 16x8 wheels so that I can clear the brakes :)
Minimum is a 16" wheel to clear the bigger brakes. I will have to use my 20mm spacer as well.








I rarely work with wood, so making the shapes was harder than expected. I used my airsaw, dremel and bits and pieces to craft the shape. Surprisingly the bolts actually threaded into the wood lol.
They are M12x1.25 by 25mm.










Using the dremel to cut out a recess for the offset bit.





















The offset bit wasn't longer enough :( by a whole 10mm FARK!
So I had to extend it, I used another piece of wood and made some dowels.

















Currently it just touches the rim, i know why. It the wood, it needs to be shaved down ~4mm






Thats how the bracket looks, it needs a lot of trimming.





Bolts I use to hold on my Evo 3 calipers.








Adams Forged Ralliart Colt Long Motor Completed - 1000A265 short engine assy ~$3800 NZ


/4g15-mivec-forge-build-nearing.html
/final-stage-of-forged-4g15-mivec-build.html

Finally closed the head, installed the rocker cover. I re-torqued the head studs to 85ftlb, three steps.
I double checked the tension on the timing belt, measured the gap to be around 4.5mm.

/z27ag-4g15-oil-port-modification-head.html





> Thermostat housing went on.
 > timing covers
 > new rear main
 > flywheel & clutch
 > rocker covers
> new clutch fork and bearing
>gearbox to engine shield







Realised a few more parts that I didn't have:
MR985190 GASKET,THROTTLE BODY
MD614813 O-RING,FUEL INJECTOR
MD087060 INSULATOR,FUEL INJECTOR








Being a turbo car, boost leaks in the throttle body, injector insulators, intake gaskets etc can be more serious. Hence I wanted to go and replace the fuel injector grommets/insulators




























Thursday, February 27, 2014

How to install my new rear camber shims v1

IMPORTANT
All wheels & wheel fixings must be installed by a competent individual with the necessary expertise to ensure that a suitable product has been supplied, and that it has been fitted correctly.

I will not be held responsible for wheels coming off, premature hub bearing damage and any other issues that could occur due to increased camber & fitment of this product.




Download Installer Guide Here: Shim Template Guide


1degree vs 1.5 vs 2












The Colt is wearing 2degrees.  The right amount to stop scrub.







The items.






Remove:
1) wheels
2) brakes calipers > rotor > ABS sensor
3) four bolt in the rear of the hub

U need:
 - star bits, allows you to remove the brake caliper
 - Thinks it's a 13mm and 15mm and six point star to remove brakes
 - Wire brush
 - Wd40
 - loctite (blue)
 - socket set
 - open end spanners
 - M10x1.5x30mm, i went slightly longer by 5mm (stock from memory is M10x1.5x25mm )

How to remove brakes (a video!):
/z27agrcolt-new-stud-and-how-to-remove.html

/rear-rotor-upgrade-p1.html
/rear-rotor-upgrade-p2.html

Background Information:
/rear-shim-rcolt-draft-design.html
/sending-shims-to-act-rear-torsion-beam.html
/fitting-camber-shim.html

Summary:
/camber-shim-flash-back-for-torsion-beam.html
Basically from no rear camber (stock is about 1ish) to 3 degrees of camber and 4mm of toe, I then used the shim rotation to almost zero the toe. From 4mm I went to 1mm.

Further Reading:
/wheel-alignment-notes-tbc.html

Start Now!

Using the right tools are important, an open end spanner holds the slide bolt from spinning as you take out with the holding bolt, 13mm.


Make sure handbrake is off, you may have to bash the calliper off the disc with a RUBBER HAMMER.


Then you need to remove with calliper mounting bracket with the torx 6pt stars, then the disc and you are left with this.



This is the rear of the hub, remove the ABS sensor first, the wire. Be delicate with it.
Then remove the four bolts holding the hub on, at this point i would snap off the outer heat-shield. Bend it back and forth like you would do with a coke can tab.


Clean surfaces, all mounting faces. Install shim (you can zero it later was the hub is almost tight, stop it slipping). 



Bolting it all together, some people has a notch in there shim, you can use this to turn it with a flat head screwdriver, making sure its zero or where you want it to me. Half way in the notch should give about 3mm of toe. Max I would imagine give about 5mm.
More photos here: /fitting-camber-shim.html
Torque your bolts as tight as you can go. I would tighten each one up evenly, not just do one to the max then the next. Get them all biting into the hub so you know its sitting flat before you torque them.

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Hub Bearing Replacement - MR594142 / MR594080 / MN102081 / MN102082 - SKF - Front = VKBA6680 - Rear = VKBA3685


/random-rcolt-pics-5-stud-hub-comparison.html

It is a genuine equivalent domestic excellent manufacturers.
It is the product of genuine products number [MR594142] equivalent new goods, one side ( whichever is necessary two left and right Please make a successful bid by two ) price and will be tax. Manufacturers list price ¥ 17430 (tax included)

FRONT bearing number 32329854E SKF BAM-0011 E ITALY A 39 3 2096

*photo from a facebook group

























/z27agrcolt-new-stud-and-how-to-remove.html











Front = VKBA6680 SKF 32329854E - 32329854E SKF BAM-0011 E ITALY A 39 3 2096

32510 MR594080 BEARING,FR WHEEL HUB 2
32596 MR594089 SNAP RING,FR WHEEL HUB 2
32515A MN116155 HUB ASSY,FR WHEEL 2

MN102081 KNUCKLE ASSY,LH
MN102082 KNUCKLE ASSY,RH

Rear = VKBA 3685

- MITSUBISHI : MR594142 - MR594142
- SMART : 454 350 01 35 - 454 350 01 35

Width [mm] 121
Outer Diameter [mm] 67
Outer Diameter [mm] 137
Pitch Circle Ø [mm] 114
Fitting Position Rear axle left and right
Weight [kg] 2,78
Required quantity 2
Engine Code 4g15


-----------------------------------------------

MAPCO - Front = 26550 - Rear = 26932
FAG - Front = 713 6197 70 - Rear = 713 6610 20
SKF - Front = VKBA6680 - Rear = VKBA3685
FEBI BILSTEIN - Front = 32970 Rear = 32580
BTA - Rear = H25044BTA
BLUE PRINT - Front = ADC48252
SWAG - Rear = 80 93 2580
NK - Front = 753017

-----------------------------------------------

REAR:

Factory Number
FAG 713661020 / FAG 713 6610 20 Wheel Bearing Kit
SPIDAN 27543
RUVILLE 8705
SKF VKBA3685
METZGER WM2130
FEBI B... 32580
OPTIMAL 402467
MITSUBISHI MR594142

MITSUBISHICOLT VI (Z_)200406 - /
MITSUBISHICOLT Convertible (RG)200605 - /
SMARTFORFOUR200401 - /

-----------------------------------------------



FRONT:

Rim 4 -Hole
Flange R 137 mm
Outer Diameter 75 mm

Factory Number
FAG 713619770 / FAG 713 6197 70
RUVILLE 8959
SKF VKBA6680
TRISCAN 853042116
OPTIMAL 401167
IPD 301977
AUTEX 802982
MITSUBISHI MN102067 / Indirect Cross Interchange
MITSUBISHI MN102068 / Indirect Cross Interchange