Spring Cleaning - Ceramic Coated Manifold + New Fittings - 4G15 TD04

Continued on from:
/z27ag-td04-new-lines-ceramic-coating.html

After melting my fan and radiator shroud, I wanted to try something. I decided to try ceramic coatings and at the same time fix up the water lines I never got around to.
Originally retro fitted the Subaru OEM hard lines, which were severely kinked






Just one of a dozen boxes with various bolts.
OEM studs were M8x1.25 & M10x1.25










Another pack of assorted items, various banjo fittings for TD04/05 etc.
M10 / M12 banjos










The old wastegate is going back in








High temp copper gasket goop.










New gaskets, don't forget the copper anti seize on all studs & bolts.











Had to trim the AN10 fittings, clearance was too tight on the oil drain.

Mobile photos while I worked:









AN10 fittings and new gaskets















Chipped exhaust wheel :(








Compressor looks good.












Double ear clamps on lines I don't intend to touch ever.
































Fitted the roll stopper:
/revised-urethane-oem-engine-roll.html


Tools, too much was used for such simple tasks.

Lexus UCF30 Monoblock to Ralliart Colt Dog Bones - 320mm Evo Disc Setup

After much looking for brake options I decided to follow what FullBlast did. It seemed the logical choice :) /ls400ucf20-or-ls430ucf30-front-brake.html
 - lightweight
 - radial mounts
 - low profile (fits 16" wheels)
 - monoblock
 - cheap
 - built originally for a V8 Lexus + similar design is used by TRD (uses same rebuild kit as TRD item /monoblock-rebuild-kit-04479-50130-lexus.html)

Other options were the Nissan R32 GTR setup, non brembo & GTO Mitsubishi 4pots.

Ok then it was onto rotors, originally they were for a ~300mm setup.
The 294mm I am using is hard to come by, plus even harder for a two piece setup.
So then I looked at GTO rotors ~310mm, but they are no longer made.
Hence the typical Evo 320mm will be the only logical option, still used by the Evos today with lots of after market options.
Reason why I was sticking with Mitsubishi rotor setups is because of the hats, hub bore, heights are all the same.  Only difference is PCD, which is an easy change.
Little bit on the rotors:
/calipers-arrived-ucf30ls430-sumitomo.html


So rotors are picked, calipers are picked then the design.
/upgraded-brake-production-resumes-money.html
Started in CAD measuring everything I could. From centre points, offsets, lengths and cutouts.
Then used that template and measurements to make my wood sample.


Then off to my trusted machinist to work his magic. We discussed metal options and decided on aircraft grade 7075.  Its twice the cost of a 6061, but twice as strong.  So we went over kill and picked that over the 6061 you see commonly in car parts.





My 294mm Evo IV RS setup vs the future 4pot monoblocks 320mm
/new-track-pads-elig-rs709-evo-1-3.html

Currently it mounts with M14 95mm bolts into a helicoil M14x1.75 (should have gone fine thread, next version). M12 35mm attach it to the hub 12.9g

Revised Urethane OEM Engine Roll Stopper Conversion - RColt

Been through a couple engine roll stoppers. Always playing with ideas. Had a fellow RColter make a unit with push in urethane bushes.
Had to recoil the ally mounts due to galling /08/recoil-engine-brace-mount-z27ag.html





I split the gearbox bell housing at the drags /gameover-virgin-drags-14991s.html
I'd say it was a combo of wheel hop / axle hop / bunny hop plus the solid mount http://www.mc2racing.com/






I shouldn't have run my track setup at the drags. Had about 3.5degrees of camber on the front and some Toyo R1R, they didn't want to spin.
Anyways. I used steel washers on the original engine brace.  This time I have made urethane washers to absorb some of the movements + drilled out the solid urethane mount.






So the bush i got punched out with an ID of 23mm & 45mm OD.
The ID shrunk when it got punched out to 19mm, so I had to machine it out







I also had to make it thinner because the sheet of urethane was only 6mm, I needed it to about 4.5mm









Drilled out the mount to make it less harsh.

Z27AG -> TD04 - New Lines & Ceramic Coating

Accidentally found my radiator shroud to be completely melted. No idea why?

Maybe from the dyno? racing? running lean?

But it got so hot the metal crystallized, is what the ceramic coater told me.

 So I decided to redo the water lines, check oil lines, clean up the housing, new gaskets.

Turbo mani has been in use for a few years now, it's been pretty much issue free

See here: 

/3port-boost-solenoid-adaptronic-with.html

/turbosmart-comp-gate-40-new-116npt.html

/progess-4g15-oil-return-complete-3port.html

So what do I need?

Oil Line Fittings:

Turbo oil threads = M10x1.5mm

Therefore M10x1.5 to -4AN plus 100cm / 4AN braided steel hose (Teflon)

 OR

M10*1.5mm Banjo bolt kit (4AN Flare) plus 100cm / 4AN braided steel hose (Teflon)

FYI thread on the head for the turbo oil feed = M10x1.25

Water Line Fittings:

Turbo water threads =2 x M12 x 1.25mm

What I am thinking is:

2 x 20cm / 4AN / 3/8" braided line plus 3/8" tapered barb

Stock thermostat housing is 10mm/3/8"

OR

M12x1.25 Banjo bolts with tapered barb fittings.

3/8" 9.5MM OD AN-6

Took it out in one hit, what a pain to do so.

Cleaning the studs

After an hour on the wire wheel, mani started looking good

Stock manifold studs: 

M8x1.25

M10x1.25

@ 40mm

Ceramic coating @ CIC better be worth it.
So expensive for something that won't improve track times.

Mapping out the fittings I need








Studs on a 4G15 Colt Ralliart =
7 x M8x1.25 @ 40mm
2 x M10x1.25 @ 40mm
10mm - 10mm - 20mm










After much hand cleaning