4G15 MIVEC Rocker Ratio - Stage 1 Cams VS OEM

ROCKER ARMS AND CAMSHAFTS
Cam height mm
             Standard  Limit
Intake valves    35.08   34.58
Exhaust valves  34.26   33.76





Cylinder head overall height 131.9 − 132.1 (Standard value)

/diesel-cleaning-bleeding-tappetslash.html
/4g15-4g63-mitsubishi-lash-adjuster.html



























Best way I could measure lift












Removing MIVEC so that I can install new cam seal

Little bit of assembly lube.












Pumping the lifters with diesel







































OEM Exhaust Cam see ~6.687mm of valve lift, which correlates to approx. 62.8CFM from the measured intake lift of 6.985mm

STG1 Exhaust Cam see ~8.1385mm of valve lift, which correlates to approx.71.2CFM from the measured intake lift of 8.255mm
Which works out to be 11.80% of increase from a ported head and stg1 cams



OEM Intake Cam see ~8.284mm of valve lift, which correlates to approx.95.3CFM from the measured intake lift of 8.255mm

STG1 Intake Cam see ~9.2555mm of valve lift, which correlates to approx.102.35CFM from the measured intake lift of 9.525mm
Which works out to be 6.89% of increase from a ported head and stg1 cams

B18C ICM Failing? - Bad Ignition - D Series ICM into the B Series (OBD 1)

/DIY-Ignition-Control-Module-(ICM)-Replacement.-Lots-of-Pics

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Brand: Tridon
Part: Ignition Control Module
Part No: TIM032
Application: B18B2
Origin: Australia
Warranty: Lifetime (The OEM part is made by NEC and OKI which only lasted 15 years =P)





I used some spare D series ICM and Coil into my B series.
Note that the heatsink of the ICM is different, It bolts to the dizzy different. I forced the ICM onto the B series heatsink

And the reason for smashing the old ICM was that I didn't know it was bolted on the underside (totally diff from the D series)





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/17-audio-security-electrical/163657-anatomy-b-series-distributor.html

Now on to the more important part of the distributor: the ignition.

The most important part of the system is the coil. It is an induction coil- being that it creates a high voltage from a lower voltage. Here's some further reading. So what happens is the primary coil windings have 12V applied to them. Wound inside of the primary winding is the secondary coil. There is a much larger number of windings- so as to produce the higher voltage. When the 12V is removed from the primary coil, the magnetic field that was formed suddenly collapses, which sends a very high voltage pulse through the secondary coil...and thus we have a spark.

Let's take apart the distributor and take a look. First take the cap off (3 screws) then the rotor (1 screw- it can be a pain!) Next pull out the dust cover. There are 2 wires on the coil (I'll get to that in a minute)- just unscrew them. Be careful not to strip them! They are likely a bit worn from age. Next, remove the 2 larger screws on the top of the coil shown here:

Next is the ICM or ignition control module (also called the Ignitor). Think of it like a VERY expensive relay. What it does is control the amount of time that the coil is charged with +12V (this is known as ignition dwell) as well as remove that voltage thus creating the spark. The ICM is also responsible for creating the tachometer signal. This is why it is a very good sign when the tachometer is acting up, it is time to replace the ICM.

The ICM has 4 wires connected to it. They are: +12V, coil control wire, tachometer output, and input from the ECU. The ICM is grounded externally through the body.

Now that our cars are getting older, I am seeing more and more ICMs that are going dead. Some symptoms are:
-Random tachometer jumping
-A completely unresponsive tachometer
-The engine suddenly shutting off while driving- you will be rolling and still in gear...but the tach may or not be responding, and you will have little or no power.

The OEM Honda ignition system is sensitive. While I have seen several ignition modifiers (MSD, Crane, etc) and external coils used with success, I have seen WAY more that cause problems. I have personally seen an external MSD coil kill 2 ICMs on my old car. It has been proven over and over that the OEM ignition system will hold up to VERY large amounts of power. I am in no way saying that these aftermarket products are bad in any way, I am simply saying that the Honda ICM was made to work with the Honda coil, and they work very well in harmony. Don't go buy a hot new igntion box or coil...just replace the parts of your OEM system.

*see above the heat sink differences. B vs D series.
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Coil and ICM Input Test - /Coil-and-ICM-Input-Test

DIY Coil and ICM Input Test
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk.

I have notice a few threads with people with no start/cutting out problems, so i thought i would make a DIY article to try help out. NOTE these specs are an average as most models have different specs so if you readings are close they are probably correct.

Undo the 3 bolts and remove the distributor cap. Remove the rotor button, it may have a screw in it if so remove it if not use a screwdriver to gently pry it off. Then remove the leak cover.

IGNITION CONTROL MODULE INPUT TEST

1. Remove the wires from the ICM

2. Turn the ignition switch to ON. Check that there is battery voltage at the wire that came off terminal C and body ground

3. With the ignition still on check there is battery at the wire that came off terminal B and body ground. If there is no voltage test your coil.

4. Check for continuity between the wire that came off terminal D and the ECU

5. Check for continuity between the wire that came off terminal A and the Tacho

6. If all test are normal replace the ICM

TESTING A COIL

1. Grab your multimeter and put it on the Ohms setting. Measure the Primary Windings resistance between the A and the B terminals, it should be about 0.7 Ohms.

2. Now change your settings to Kohms and measure the Secondary Windings resistance between the A and secondary winding terminal C, it should be about 17 Kohms.

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Gear I found as possible replacements for the OEM igniter and ICM.

MSD Megarace coil
MSD 6A digital ignition (A mallory Hyfire 6 Digital ignition can do as well for those that don't like MSD)
MSD external cap
NGK 8.5 wires

MSD 8207 Coil instead of the Crane coil.

The summitt and mallory boxes even have an ignition rpm limit adjustment to work as a safety measure.

summit box and crane coil - summit box and crane coil. And they can be used with the icm bypass

MSD 8207 Coil instead of the Crane coil. The summitt and mallory boxes even have an ignition rpm limit adjustment to work as a safety measure.

The icm is a failing point due to being mounted inside the distributor and heat and load. You can run the msd off the positive coil trigger from the icm but they eventually fail. The bypass circuit allows signal from ecu to the msd or box of your choice without the ignitor and gets rid of that failing part with just a circuit

Mallory Hyfire and MSD 6A digital boxes

Summit Racing Digital Capacitive Discharge Ignition Box
MSD Distributor Rotor
MSD Pro Distributor Cap
Mallory External Coil

Summit racing street ignition box, Mallory racing coil, ignitor bypass (turbo-LS) & MSD distributor cap

M&W Pro 10, Crane Cams LX92 Coil, and MSD Cap external Coil Cap

Error Codes On My B18C

http://m.honda-tech.com/

http://www.troublecodes.net/honda/

--------------- My Error Codes -----------------------

7 - Throttle Position (TP Sensor){2}

21 - VTEC Solenoid Valve - http://honda-tech.com/

41 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater

 TPS was unplugged LOL. But I still have the VTEC Issue.

--------------------------------

OBD 1 CEL codes 

0 - Engine Control Modual (ECM)
1 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) or Oxygen Sensor (O2S)
2 - HO2S Or O2S{2} / VSS{1}
3 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP Sensor)
4 - Crankshaft Position (CKP Sensor) {2} / Vacuum Switch{1}
5 - MAP Sensor
6 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT Sensor)
7 - Throttle Position (TP Sensor){2} / M/T Clutch Switch Signal{1} /  A/T Shift Position Signal{1}
8 - Top Dead Center Position (TDC Sensor) {2} / Ignition Coil Signal{1}
9 - No. 1 Cylinder Position (CYP Sensor)
10 - Intake Air Temperature (IAT Sensor)
12 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System
13 - Barometric Pressure (BARO Sensor)
14 - Idle Air Control (IAC Valve){2} / EACV{1}
15 - Ignition Output Signal
16 - Fuel Injector
17 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
19 - Lock-Up Control Solenoid Valve A/B (A/T)
20 - Electrical Load Detector (ELD)
21 - VTEC Solenoid Valve
22 - VTEC Pressure Switch
23 - KS
30 - A/T FI Signal A
31 - A/T FI Signal B
41 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater
43 - Fuel Supply System
48 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) [D15Z1(except California model)]

{1}PGM-CARB
{2}PGM-FI four cylinder engines.
{3}D5Z1 engine except California.

91 was the last year of obd-0 (blinking light right on the ecu)
92-95 was obd-1
96-98 obd-2a
99+ obd-2b

Originally Posted by XGRaViSmOrSX  

CEL = Check Engine Light

92-00 CIVIC / 92-01 INTEGRA CEL CODE CHECKING :
OBD1 & OBD2 Honda/Acura vehicles both use the same CEL checking procedure.

With a flashlight, you'll have to get yourself situated under the passenger side of your dash board and look to the right of the glove box.

You should see a green colored rubber block stuffed up under there [Pic.1].

Pull this block down. You should see two plugs residing inside of the block. Pull out the smaller of the two plugs (either a light grey or blue colored 2 wire plug) - this is the diagnostic plug [Pic.2].

Now, you can either make your own plug to "jump" the diagnostic connector[Pic.3-4] or you can use a paper clip to arc the diagnostic connector.

I've always found that it's easier to have the vehicle running while the CEL is ON before I "jump" the diagnostic plug. Once the diagnostic plug is "jumped", take a look at your gauge cluster and your CEL light should begin to blink

Once you get the CEL light to blink, here's the how the light is read:

*
1 long blink w/short pause = an incriment of 10
*
short blinks = incriments of 1
*
long pause = a break between codes

Example: say your CEL light is showing 1 long blink, short pause, 1 long blink quickly followed by 2 fast blinks, this is code 22 being flashed. Another example could be 10 fast blinks, semi-long pause, followed by 1 short blink - this would be two codes being flashed, code 10 & code 1.

It may take a few minutes to figure out what CEL codes are being thrown by your ecu.

After You Figure out the code being thrown by the ecu. You can refer to the honda service manual or haynes manual for your model car.

Z27AG 4G15 Oil Port Modification & Head Height Check

The thickness of the metal that can be removed by grinding from both the cylinder head and the mating cylinder block is limited to 0.2 mm in total.
Gasket surface warp
Standard value: 0.03 mm or less
Limit: 0.2 mm
Grinding limit: 0.2 mm
Cylinder head height (standard value for new part): 131.9 − 132.1 mm
















































The oil goes around the head stud, hence you need a certain clearance to maintain pressure/oil volume to the head.
OEM Clearance = 1.8mm
Oversized stud clearance  = 1.82mm
Diameters:
Head Stud ARP = 9.26mm
OEM Head Stud = 8.14mm




Bored / enlarged oil port hole = 11.08mm
OEM oil port hole = 9.94mm
The Oil Clearance With Boring = 1.82mm
NOTE:
The shaft the oil stud is in has a widened base (block side). Our built head is 11.92mm and the OEM is 11.92. Hence Oil clearance at this point goes from 3.78mm to 2.66m

Mapping the intake ports












Deepening the oil port due to the head being decked
/4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html
/oil-port-mod-2-4g63t.html













<- Oil Port Modified Head - You can see there is less lip because of the oversize bore due to the M10 head stud
Stock head stud oil port ->













Head Height
Standard value: 0.03 mm or less
Limit: 0.2 mm
Grinding limit: 0.2 mm
Cylinder head height (standard value for new part): 131.9 − 132.1 mm

OEM Head = 132.06mm
Machined Head = 131.98mm

More Info
Check the cylinder head gasket surface for warp using a straightedge and thickness gauge. If the surface is warped beyond the limit, grind the
surface for rectification.

When reusing a cylinder head bolt, check that its nominal length (shank length) is not greater than the limit. If the limit is exceeded, replace the bolt.
Limit: 103.2 mm

Install each valve spring with the painted end toward the rocker arm.

Tighten the bolts to 49 ± 2 N⋅m in the indicated sequence.
4. Loosen all the bolts completely.
5. Tighten the bolts again to a torque of 20 ± 2 N⋅m in the indicated sequence.
If the tightening angle is smaller than 90°, proper fastening performance could not be assured. Be sure to respect that angle.
• If the bolt is tightened to an angle greater than the specified angle, loosen the bolt com-pletely and then retighten it beginning with the first step.
6. Make paint marks on each bolt’s head and on the cylinder head.
7. Turn the bolts 90° in the tightening direction and in the indicated sequence.
8. Give another 90° turn in the tightening direction to each bolt, making sure that the paint mark on the bolt head and that on the cylinder head are on the same line.

Port Mapping

Area of an Ellipse - Area of an ellipse can be calculated when we know the length of the semi-major axis (r1) and length of the semi-minor axis (r2).
Area of an Ellipse = pi x r1 x r2

Intake Widths  - OEM Port
                (1) 36.82
                (2) 36.68
                (3) 37.66
                (4) 18.94
                (5) 18.86
Intake Widths - Hand Porting
                (1) 38.46
                (2) 37.4
                (3) 38.7
                (4) 20.08
                (5) 19.86
Exhaust Widths - OEM Port
                (1) 37.6
                (2) 38.46
                (3) 41.9
                (4) 21.32
                (5) 20.92
Exhaust Widths - Hand Porting
                (1) 40.8
                (2) 39.14
                (3) 42.76
                (4) 21
                (5) 21.82
Exhaust Heights - OEM
                (1) 20.86
                (2) 19.46
                (3) 17.86
Exhaust Heights - Ported
                (1) 23.66
                (2) 20.7
                (3) 18.04

4G15 / 4G63 / Mitsubishi - Lash Adjuster Check & Air Bleeding

Previous Clean Job - Diesel Cleaning & Bleeding Tappets/Lash Adjusters/Hydraulic lifters - MD171130 MD376687 - 4G15, 4G63 etc
 /diesel-cleaning-bleeding-tappetslash.html





LASH ADJUSTER CHECK

If an abnormal noise (knocking) that seems to be coming from the lash adjuster is heard after starting the engine and dose not stop, carry out the following
check.
NOTE: .
• If the vehicle is parked on a slope fir a long period of time, the amount of oil inside the lash adjuster will decrease, and air may get into the high pres-sure chamber when starting the engine.
• After parking the vehicle for long periods, the oil drains out of the oil passage, and it takes time for the oil to be supplied to the lash adjuster, so air can get into the high-pressure chamber.
• If either of the above situations occur, the abnor-mal noise can be eliminated by bleeding the air from inside the lash adjusters.
• The abnormal noise which is caused by a prob-lem with the lash adjusters is generated after the engine is started, and will vary according to the engine speed. However, this noise is not related to the actual engine load.
Because of this, if the noise dose not occur immedi-ately after the engine is started, if it dose not change in accordance with the engine speed, or if it changes in accordance with the engine load, the source of the noise is not the lash adjusters.
• If there is a problem with the lash adjusters, the noise will almost never disappear, even if the engine has been run at idle to let it warm up. The only case where the noise might disappear is if the oil in the engine has not been looked after properly and oil sludge has caused the lash adjusters to stick.

1. Start the engine.
2. Check that the noise occurs immediately after the engine is started, and that the noise changes in accordance with changes in the engine speed.
If the noise dose not occur immediately after the engine is started, or if it dose not change in accordance with the engine speed, the problem is not being caused by the lash adjusters, so check for some other cause of the problem. Moreover, if the noise dose not change in accordance with the engine speed, the cause of the problem is probably not with the engine (In these cases, the lash adjusters are normal).
3. While the engine is idling, check that the noise level does not change when the engine load is varied (for example, by shifting from N to D).If the noise level changes, the cause of the noise is probably parts striking because of worn crankshaft bearings or connecting rod bearings (In such cases, the lash adjusters are normal).
4. After the engine has warmed up, run it at idle and check if any noise can be heard. If the noise has become smaller or disappeared, oil sludge could make the lash adjusters stick. Clean the lash adjusters (Refer to GROUP 11D − Rocker Arms and Camshaft − Rocker Arms and Camshaft Inspection P.11D-30). If not improved, go to step 5.
5. Bleed air from the lash adjusters (Refer to P.11C-16).
6. If the noise has not disappeared even after the air bleeding, clean the lash adjusters (Refer to GROUP 11D − Rocker Arms and Camshaft − Rocker Arms and Camshaft Inspection P.11D-30).

Air Bleeding
1. Check the engine oil and replenish or replace the oil if necessary.
NOTE: .
• If there is an only small amount of oil, air will be drawn in through the oil screen and will get into the oil passage.
• If the amount of oil is greater than normal, then the oil will being mixed by the crankshaft and a large amount of air may get mixed into the oil.
• If the oil is degenerated, air and oil will not separate easily in oil, and the amount of air mixed into the oil will increase.
If the air which has been mixed in with the oil due to any of the above reasons gets into the high pressure chamber of the lash adjuster, the air inside the high pressure chamber will be compressed when the valve is open and the lash adjuster will over-compress, resulting in abnormal noise when the valve close. This is the same effect as if the valve clearance is adjusted to be too large by mistake. If the air inside the lash adjusters is then released, the operation of the lash adjusters will return to normal.




2. Run the engine at idle for 1 − 3 minutes to let it warm up.
3. With no load on the engine, repeat the drive pattern shown in the illustration above and check if the abnormal noise disappears (The noise should normally disappear after 10 − 30 repetitions, but if there is no change in the noise level after 30 repetitions or more, the problem is probably not due to air inside the lash adjusters).






















4. After the noise has disappeared, repeat the drive pattern shown in the illustration above a further 5times.
5. Run the engine at idle for 1 − 3 minutes and check that the noise has disappeared.