Building my own engine. I am going to attempt to build my own engine.
Going to need to do alot of reading, sourcing parts and gettings more cool tools.
Build Parts I will require:
- new rods and studs
- new pistons + rings
- new larger cams
- valves and springs
- new mains studs + head studs
- timing belt
- water pump
- seal kit - head gasket, main seals
- new bearings (big end, crank saddles)
Will need to consider machine work by Perth companies:
- crank machine and balance
- decking the block to make sure they are perfectly flat
- block hone
- hot tanked?
- piston/bore coatings? http://www.cicceramic.com.au/
- head porting
Tools:
- snap/telescopic gauge - measure IDs
- dial bore gauge
- valve spring compressor
- stretch gauge
- ring compressor
- ring expander pliers
- dial indicator (measure crank end play)
Precise Measurements:
- piston to wall clearance therefore: measurements of cylinder bores and piston heads
- measure the crank main bores - snap gauge or dial bore gauge
- crank main journals + main bearings
- crank cradle bolted down with plasti gauge - compare results to crank main journal measurements (measured with snap gauge etc)
- rod caps on and torquing to spec, measure the bore diameter
- rod to crank clearances: Rod race diameter minus bearing thickness X 2 + rod journal diameter
- plasti gauged the rod bearings. Install the clean bearings in the rod and rod cap. Bolt them to the crank with a piece of plasti gauge and torque to spec
- ring gap
Other Details:
- 3 step torquing process following the factory pattern - when doing head bolts/main caps/cam caps/cam covers etc
- cleaned the bearing mating surfaces on the rod and rod cap
- ARP moly lub on the rod bolts
- use motor oil to coat cyclinder bores and the piston
- use some scrap fuel holes to put on the rod bolts to stop them scratching cylinder bores and rod journels
- clean all surfaces throughly where bearing and thrust bearing sit
- when installing any bolts coat them with engine oil, helps them stretch to spec when torquing
- assembly lube on crank jounals and bearing faces.
- install one of the retainer clips in the piston. A little assembly lube on the wrist pins and the rods to allow the pin to slide through the piston and rod easier. After the
wrist pin was in the piston rod combo install the second retainer clip
- full floating wrist pin in the aftermarket rod and piston head VS pressed in wrist pins
- The rod bolts I torque with a stretch gauge
- some info from an engine builder I got:
##make sure its someone that can read Wiseco's instructions, and measure the pistons correctly. It is done wrong more often than not. Also, do not let them go stupid on the piston to bore clearance, most old school V8 engine builders are off with the fairies when it comes to piston to bore clearance. Wiseco recommend 3-3.5 thou which is more than adequate for any 4G15 build 150-600hp.
##Yeah, there's nothing difficult about gapping the rings, its just time consuming.
Ring orientation is specified within the instructions from Wiseco with the ring kits provided.
The only other thing is checking all clearances accurately.
##Depends on the brand of camshaft, but generally, you need to run a new cam in for 15mins or so, at approx 2000rpm.
- when measuring piston head: You want to record the largest OD on the thrust axis, not the pin axis
- To set the ring end gaps you need to square the rings in the bore to ensure that you are measuring the end gaps accurately. In most cases you can use the piston itself and line the deck up with the 3rd ring land to ensure its square in the bore. Then use a feeler gauge to measure end gap.
- fine metal file in a vice will suffice. Make sure movements are pushing the ring towards the file, not pulling away. Once end gap is set remember to use a fine whetstone to deburr the edges of the rings or they WILL damage the bores and ring lands. I also go a little bit further and use an Arkansas stone to polish the ends.
-prime the engine with oil before starting
Links:
- http://www.angel-works.co.uk/articles/f4rbuild.php
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