Monday, June 3, 2013

4G15 Crank Installation - ARP Main Studs and ACL Bearings 5M1124 (Half Groove)




If you saw early i hit a snag getting the crank in
/4g15-bottom-end-main-stud-install-arp.html
I managed to get the crank in today (day two of the build). I stripped all the studs out, thread chased the block again and cleaned all surfaces.
I installed the studs, torqued down the main caps and measured all the main journals.





Part of the process i go through is zero all instruments before i begin. A vice comes in handy when holding the micrometer and using it to set a dial bore gauge.










Measuring main journals.






















I was using telescopic gauges but i found they weren't reliable and giving a fair amount of difference in results. I believe it could be due to the face that i was using it outside of its comfort range.
They are max 54mm and i am trying to measure 52mm.








I setup the dial bore gauge with a 50mm tip and a 3mm spacer.









Install grooved bearings to the cylinder block.
NOTE: Center bearings (with thrust flanges) are
grooveless.
Install grooveless bearings to the bearing caps.









After fitting the bearing caps, measure the end
play in the crankshaft. If the measurement
exceeds the specified limit, replace the crankshaft
bearings.
Standard value: 0.05 − 0.18 mm
Limit: 0.25 mm






On the bottom surface of each bearing cap is the

capĂ­s number and an arrow. Starting at the timing
belt side, fit the bearing caps in numerical order.
Ensure that the arrows point toward the timing
belt side.





This plastic gauge method is recommended as the simplest way of measuring the crankshaft oil clear-ance. Measure the crankshaft oil clearance using a plastic gauge as follows:

1. Wipe off oil from the crankshaft journal surface and the crankshaft bearing inner surface.
2. Install the crankshaft.





3. Cut a piece of plastic gauge whose length is
equivalent to the width of the bearing and place it on the crankshaft journal in parallel with its axis.
4. Install the crankshaft bearing cap carefully and tighten the bolts to the specified torque according






5. Remove the bolts, then remove the crankshaft bearing cap carefully.
6. Measure the largest width of the crushed plastic gauge using the ruler printed on the bag of the plastic gauge.
Standard value: 0.02 − 0.04 mm
Limit: 0.1 mm







NOTE: The crankshaft pins and journals are fillet-rolled and must not be machined to undersize dimensions.









I measured all the crank journals. Both x and y axis and also left and right of the oil feed.
Removed the main caps and installed the bearings with plasti gauge.
I had calculated the oil clearances already. I will post them up late. But i was looking for a .02-.04mm oil clearance.




















I wanted to accomplish something hence i went ahead and installed the crank. It might have to come out again, i am not sure. I hope not.






CRANKSHAFT AND CYLINDER BLOCK (LIMIT)
Crankshaft end play mm 0.05 − 0.18 (0.25)
Oil clearance at crankshaft journals mm 0.02 − 0.04 (0.1)
Cylinder block gasket surface warp mm 0.05 (0.1)
Cylinder block gasket surface grinding limit
(including cylinder head grinding amount) mm  − (0.2)
Cylinder bore diameter mm 75.50 − 75.53 (−)
Taper of cylinder mm 0.01 or less (−)
Cylinder-to-piston clearance mm 0.02 − 0.04 (−)
























OEM Bearings - unusual wear i think

























ATM i am thinking of crocus cloth vs emery cloth to just remove any high spots.

Block Markings were 11111 (hence no1 to no5 all came in the same)
Journal diameter mm 47.988 − 47.994
Bearing identification mark 3
Crank Markings 22222
                        ABBB1

Working out sizes /selecting-bearing-piston-sizes-for.html
See more about the bent rod here /bent-rod-z27ag-4g15-more-to-come.html
Bearing picklist /rcolt-rebuild-pick-list-part-numbers.html
Assembly specs /z27a-4g15-engine-re-assembly-torque.html

--- A ding i saw in the crank. Makes me wonder if it was polished @_@

WISECO PISTONS SPECS
Suggest Clearance on Piston Kit Spec sheet is 0.0035 (0.08889999999999999mm)
Spec sheet 1: Bore 2.9920" = 75.9968mm (.5mm oversized)
Spec sheet 2: Bore 3.0120" = 76.5048mm (1mm oversized)











CYLINDER BLOCK
1. Visually check the cylinder block for scratches, rust, and any other corrosion. Also check it for cracks using a flaw detecting penetrant. If any defect is evident, replace the cylinder block.





2. Use a straightedge and thickness gauge to check the cylinder block top surface for warp. If the warp exceeds the specified limit, correct by grinding.
Make sure that the surface is free from remaining gasket material and other foreign matter.
Standard value: 0.05 mm
Limit: 0.1 mm
Grinding limit: 0.2 mm
3. Check cylinder walls for scratches and seizure. If defects are evident, rebore to oversize or replace the cylinder block.
4. Use a cylinder gauge to measure the cylinder bore diameter and taper. If the cylinder is worn badly, rebore it to an oversize and replace the piston and piston rings with ones matched with the new bore size. The points at which the measurements should be made are indicated in the illustration.
Standard value: 75.50 − 75.53 mm
Taper: 0.01 mm or less

BORING CYLINDERS
1. Select an oversize of the pistons to be used based on the largest of the cylinder bores.
2. Oversize pistons are available in two oversizes 0.50 mm and 1.00 mm. Bore each cylinder to a size that provides the standard clearance when combined with the selected piston. The reference position for piston diameter measurement is as shown in the illustration.
3. Based on the piston diameter measurement, calculate the boring finish dimension.
• Boring finish dimension = [Piston diameter] + [0.02 − 0.04 mm (clearance between piston an cylinder)] − [0.02 mm (honing margin)]
CAUTION
To prevent deformation of cylinder block that would result from the heat generated by boring bore the cylinders in the following sequence:
No. 2 → No. 4 → No. 1 → No. 3.
4. Bore all the cylinders to the calculated boring finish dimension.
5. Hone the bored cylinders to the final finish dimension (piston diameter + clearance between piston and cylinder).
6. Check the clearance between the piston and cylinder.
Standard value: 0.02 − 0.04 mm


Tuesday, May 28, 2013

4G15 Bottom End - Main Stud Install - ARP Mains 207-5401 & Head 201-4302



Some previous photos of a bottom end>>

So we already hit a snag when i picked up the wrong sheet and was torquing the bolts down to 80ftlb (~111Nm) instead of the 60ftlb (84Nm).  Looks like the boxes got switched. Fun times :(






11mm bolts run a 82ftlb rating (200,000PSI).



The box has a bunch of spare bolts, i think because in the Evo the main caps/cradles use bolts.

So I started by washing the block down with detergent and give it a good clean.
Air compressor drying and sprayed it with CRC (I didn't have my WD40 on me).






I ran a thread chaser down all the main cap threads M10x1.25. I found that when spinning them in hand tight they all didn't bottom out the same.

I cleaned all bearing caps, I used some kerosene. Good and removing oil deposits. I seen builders use Brake Kleen.

I believe the front cap (cap 1) uses bolts and not studs. Studs are a lot stronger, i believe it could be due clearance?








Thread cleaning and installing studs











Cleaning and measuring








Ouch

I should have realised earlier, M10 run about 60ftlbs. But I guess when i saw the paper with 85, I just thought wow ok. Here we go :(

Due to this over torque, I may have over stretched them. I will conduct close measurements. ARPs are not meant to stay stretched unless you exceed their elastic limit and they won't stretch


Some of the tools i bought earlier - /tools-percision-instruments.html

ARP Sites -
Main - /instructions/207-5401.pdf
Head - /miata-arp-head-studs/
Head Bolts - /instructions/201-4302.pdf
(This is oversized M10, OEM head studs are 9mm)



My next set of plans is to clean the crank, measure the journals, redo the main caps, work out oil clearances for the bearings and install the crank. I will also attempt to measure crank walk. I didn't buy a magnetic stand, so i was planning to use feeler gauges.

After crank is installed i will re-measure the bores, pistons and start working on ring gaps and big end oil clearances.



Installation Extracts: /SBC_Main_Studs_Installation.pdf

STUDS vs. BOLTS
ARP® recommends the use of main studs over bolts whenever possible for several key
reasons. First is the ability to obtain more accurate torque readings because studs don’t
“twist” into the block. All clamping forces are on one axis. By the same token, there is
less force exerted on the block threads, which contributes to improved block life
(very critical on aluminum blocks). Finally, there are factors of easier engine assembly
and proper alignment of caps every time.

Install
There are a number of important considerations when installing ARP® main studs. First and
foremost is making sure the block and studs are as clean as possible. Foreign matter and debris can easily affect the quality of thread engagement and cause erroneous torque readings. Do not re-cut threads in the block—use the special “chaser” taps as listed on page 80 of this catalog. This will preserve the integrity of the threads and provide better engagement. You should also make sure your torque wrench has been calibrated. Even new wrenches have been known to be off by as much as 10 foot pounds!
Use consistent tightening techniques.

1. Clean and chase appropriate threads in block to ensure proper thread engagement and
accurate torque readings.

2. All hardware (and caps) should be cleaned and inspected prior to installation, looking for any shipping damage or defects.

3. Screw studs into block, finger tight ONLY. For permanent installation, apply Loc-tite (or similar adhesive) sparingly to threads. Be sure and install the caps promptly before the cement sets to prevent misalignment of studs in block.

4. Install main caps, checking for binding and misalignment. Lubricate threads, nuts and washers with oil or ARP® moly assembly lubricant before installation. Note that torque specs will vary by lubricant. Moly lube is most consistent. Have block align honed.

5. Using the instructions provided with the studs, tighten the nuts to proper torque values three times. NOTE: If using Loc-Tite or similar cement, proper preload must be achieved prior to it setting up



Monday, May 27, 2013

Audi A3 KW 100 1007 Suspension with K-MAC Top Hats Install





I previously installed KW on a friends Audi A3. What a bitch it was. I miss JDM suspension :(
/audi-a3-kw-front-suspension-install.html
/audi-a3-kw-rear-suspension-install.html









He decided to fit new front strut tower top hats so that he could align the suspension properly. It was also making a strange noise that we thought was the old rubber top hat breaking down.
It didn't look too bad though. We then figured it maybe the brake dust shield touching at different lock angles.




















I have never installed anything so strange before. The diagrams were hard to understand as well. I will add some more info later.

Toyota FJ Cruiser TRD Big Brake Kit PTR09-35070 - Pad Replace D609 - DB439 - Part II





Reinstalled the TRD brakes onto another FJ. He has different hub assembly which i had to hit with the angle grinder for the brakes to clear. Nothing too major.

Nothing major. Install, bleed, cut the heat shield off the hub see here for more info


















Which way do rotors turn? http://www.youtube.com/
Its all about the inner vanes and not the slots/cross drilled patterns





Part 1: /toyota-fj-cruiser-trd-big-brake-kit.html




Thursday, May 23, 2013

Toyota FJ Cruiser TRD Big Brake Kit PTR09-35070 - Pad Replace D609 - DB439


My Previous Install

TOYOTA FJ CRUISER 2007 - FRONT BRAKE UPGRADE - FJ CRuiseR ’07 - ’10 pTr09-35070
Info - /10-11_TRD_Catalog.pdf
Install - /PTR09-35070inst.pdf

--------------------






























30mm limit on the rotors














TRD Big Brake Kit - Stoptech replacement pads -  Used with the TRD BBK caliper - Brake Pad D609
TRD PERFORMANCE BRAKE FRONT RIGHT ROTOR 07-13 FJ CRUISER - PTR0935082
TRD Performance Brake Front Left Rotor 07-13 FJ Cruiser - PTR0935083

--------------------

Caliper - ST-40 - Pad Options - Stoptech, EBC, Hawk

/brake-pads/brake-pad-d609

/big-brake-kits/replacement-parts/bbk-pads-and-components/st40-components

--------------------

User - BCFDT-10
/maintenance-tech/157835-trd-big-brake-kit-question-2.html

"Installed the Stoptech street performance pads. The Axxis ones are no longer available. I paid close attention to the cleaning of the caliper and slides. I had the rotors machined as little as possible. The manufacturers recommended bed-in proceedure consists of 10 "stops" from 60 mph-5 mph with increasing brake pressure to almost lock-up, without stopping completely. Took 3 cycles of this for proper material transfer and to blue the rotors. The cold bite is about the same as the Axxis pads...strong, maybe even a little better. Modulation is great. There was no fade whatsoever during the 3 bed-ins. The Axxis pads would show some minor fade after a bed-in cycle. There is no noise or squealing, and they are supposed to be considerably less dusty than the Axxis pads, those were very dusty. I will update in a few weeks on that. Overall very pleased, and I feel they are the same or better in every aspect so far."


--------------------

Toyota Part:
TRD FJ BIG BRAKE KIT
Part NO.: PTR09-35070
Replaced By: PTR09-35100

--------------------

Part No.: HB141-Compound-Thickness

Hawk Brake Pad, Porsche 928 (D609)

FMSI D372, D447, D609.
Fits:
1994-98 Audi RS2
1994-96 Ferrari 456 GT Coupe Rear

and many Porsche models, including:
1996-98 911 Carrera 4 rear
1991 911 Turbo
1986 928 S
1987-91 928 S4
1990-91 928 GT
1989-91 944 Turbo
1992-95 968 Sport
Also fits the Stoptech ST40 caliper.

--------------------

Bendix Website - DB439

Aftermarket Upgrade Kit / Caliper Stoptech ST-40 1999 - NOW

Set Consists of - 4 Pads 132 x 70 x 18 mm

I have Purchased DB439HPX - QFM HPX

-------------------- Extract From Install PDF --------------------

Kit Contents
Item # Quantity Reqd. Description
1 1 Brake Rotor, LH Front
2 1 Brake Rotor, RH Front
3 1 Brake Caliper Assembly, LH
    Front with 2 M12X30mm Allen
    Head Socket Bolts
4 1 Brake Caliper Assembly, RH
    Front with 2 M12X30mm Allen
    Head Socket Bolts

Hardware Bag Contents
Item # Quantity Reqd. Description
1 2 Stainless Steel Brake Hose
2 2 Banjo Bolt
3 2 Rubber End Cap
4 4 Copper Washer
5 1 Dust Shield Template
6 1 Installation Instructions
7 1 Mirror Hanging Tag
8 1 Owner’s Document

Recommended Tools
--- Personal & Vehicle
Safety Glasses Safety Glasses /face shield
Vehicle Protection Seat & Floor Covers
Fender Covers
Work Gloves
Special Tools Notes
Chassis Lift or (Hydraulic Jack & Jack
Stands)
Fluid Drip Trays One per side
Air Powered Vacuum With chip collection bag

--- Installation Tools Notes
21mm Deep Socket ½” Drive
Air Impact Gun ½” Drive
10mm Flare Nut Wrench
Needle Nose Pliers
17mm Deep Socket ½” Drive
Air Powered Nibbler
Torque Wrenches 3/8” & ½” Drive
9/16” Socket 3/8” Drive
Soft Mallet
11mm Combination Wrench
10mm Allen Socket 3/8” Drive
Breaker Bar ½” Drive

--- Special Chemicals Notes
Toyota Brake Fluid #00475-1BF03 or Fluid:
SAE J1703 or FMVSS No.
116 DOT3
Toyota Brake Cleaner #00289-2BC00-CA