How to Use a Stretch Gauge - Information - Reading Numbers 1 thou = 0.001" = 0.0254 mm

Reading Numbers
How many mm in 1 inch? The answer is 25.4.


mm =       in
          ________
           0.039370

1 thou (THOUSANDTH OF AN INCH) is exactly equal to:  0.001" = 0.0254 mm
e.g. one hundredth of an inch is "10 thou"

 Rounded Conversion Table - Common #
.010" (10 thou) = 0.25mm
.015" (15 thou) = 0.40mm
.020" (20 thou) = 0.50mm
.030" (30 thou) = 0.75mm
.040" (40 thou) = 1.00mm
.060" (60 thou) = 1.50mm
.080" (80 thou) = 2.00mm
.100" (100 thou) = 2.5mm
.125" (125 thou) = 3.2mm
.156" (156 thou) = 4.00mm
.188" (188 thou) = 4.80mm
.250" (250 thou) = 6.30mm


 Conversion Table

INCHES	mm		INCHES	mm		INCHES	mm
0.0005	0.0127		0.0060	0.1524		0.0160	0.4064
0.0010	0.0254		0.0070	0.1778		0.0180	0.4572
0.0015	0.0381		0.0080	0.2032		0.0200	0.5080
0.0020	0.0508		0.0090	0.2286		0.0220	0.5588
0.0025	0.0635		0.0100	0.2540		0.0240	0.6096
0.0030	0.0762		0.0110	0.2794		0.0250	0.6350
0.0035	0.0889		0.0120	0.3048		0.0260	0.6604
0.0040	0.1016		0.0130	0.3302		0.0280	0.7112
0.0045	0.1143		0.0140	0.3556		0.0300	0.7620
0.0050	0.1270		0.0150	0.3810		0.0320	0.8128

INCHES	mm		INCHES	mm
0.0350	0.8890		0.10000	2.54000
0.0400	1.0160		0.12500	3.17500
0.0450	1.1430		0.25000	6.35000
0.0500	1.2700		0.50000	12.70000
0.0600	1.5240		0.75000	19.05000
0.0625	1.5875		1.00000	25.40000
0.0700	1.7780		1.25000	31.75000
0.0750	1.9050		1.50000	38.10000
0.0800	2.0320		1.75000	44.45000
0.0900	2.2860		2.00000	50.80000

Stretch Gauge http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/

ARP Instructions http://arp-bolts.com/
When using a stretch gauge it's best to measure the fastener prior to starting and monitor overall length during installation. When the bolt has stretched a specified amount, the correct preload or clamping force has been applied. We recommend that you maintain a chart of all rod bolts and make a note of the fastener length prior to installation and after any disassembly. If there is a permanent increase of .0005˝ or more in length, there is a deformation and the bolt should be replaced. You can download a sample rod bolt stretch monitoring chart by clicking here.

U.S. STANDARD TORQUE VALUES
Recommended Torque to Achieve Optimum Preload (Clamping Force)
Fastener Tensile Strength	170,000/180,000		190,000/200,000		220,000 PSI
	PSI		PSI		(1,515 Nmm2)
	(1,171 Nmm2)		(1,309 Nmm2)
Fastener Diameter	Torque	Preload(lbs)	Torque	Preload(lbs)	Torque	Preload(lbs)
	ARP lube		ARP lube		ARP lube
	(ft-lbs)		(ft-lbs)		(ft-lbs)
1/4″	12	3,492	14	3,967	16	4,442
5/16″	24	5,805	28	6,588	32	7,371
3/8″	45	8,622	50	9,782	55	10,942
7/16″	70	11,880	80	13,470	90	15,060
1/2″	110	16,391	125	18,515	140	20,639
9/16″	160	21,220	180	23,944	200	26,668
5/8″	210	26,372	240	29,756	270	33,140
6mm	11	3,359	13	3,814	15	4,269
8mm	24	5,801	28	6,581	32	7,361
10mm	54	9,970	62	11,305	70	12,640
11mm	72	12,184	82	13,961	92	15,738
12mm	98	14,472	112	16,949	125	19,425
14mm	N/A	N/A	184	22,771	205	25,730
16mm	N/A	N/A	244	29,664	272	33,519

DIY Installer - http://www.e30m3project.com/

Understanding Stretch - http://performanceenginetech.com/
A bolt functions similar to a spring, in that it needs to be stretched beyond it’s static length in order to apply a clamping force. In the case of a connecting rod bolt, the clamping force must exceed the tensile load imparted by the attached components during high rpm operation. This is accomplished through a combination of bolt material selection and stretch dimension.

A common method for determining ideal stretch, is by incrementally increasing the amount of stretch until the bolt becomes permanently elongated. This dimension is termed yield, and a typical target stretch range is then determined to be 75-80 % of yield, with the min/max provided to the end user at +/- 5 % of  this target. As an example:

Yield = .007″ stretch
Target stretch is 75-80 % of yield = .0052″ – .0056″
+/- 5 % of target = Min/Max of .0049″ – .0059″ (recommended stretch range)
Yield varies, and is affected by a variety of factors, such as material, bolt length, under-head register length, and shank diameter.

Torque vs. Stretch - http://performanceenginetech.com/
Now that we understand that the stretch value is what needs to be achieved, it’s necessary to verify what amount of torque on the wrench being used is going to stretch the bolt within spec. All rod manufacturers provide an information sheet that will list the recommended torque spec and bolt stretch range. Here’s the process I use to match my torque wrench reading the proper stretch value:

- Install the cap on the rod with the manufacturers recommended lube on the bolts.
- Carefully draw the cap into the rod using a nut-driver alternating from side to side in order to keep everything square until the cap & bolts are properly seated.
- Loosen one bolt just enough to be sure there is no load on it.
- Install the bolt stretch gauge on the loose bolt.
- Set the dial to “0″ – remove and re-install gauge to verify it still reads “0″
- Remove the gauge.
- Finger tighten the loose, just measured bolt.
- Torque the opposing bolt to 25 ft. lbs. – this assures it has a small amount of preload on it.
- Torque the measured bolt to the manufacturer’s recommended value.
- Install the stretch gauge, and see what the bolt stretched to.
- If the bolt isn’t within specs, loosen and adjust torque up or down until you reach the desired stretch.
- If the bolt is stretched within the specified range, loosen the opposing bolt and repeat the measure/torque/verify procedure.
- Repeat these steps to 4 bolts to assure that the same torque reading provides the same amount of stretch.

At this point you should be able to use the torque wrench reading determined in the outlined process to torque the rest of the bolts, or continue to stretch each bolt individually. I should also be clear that you must zero the dial on the stretch gauge for each bolt. The center dimples used for the gauge are not a critical dimension, and will vary from bolt to bolt.

Pauter Installation Information - /forged-4g15-pick-list-continued.html
Technical information about your Pauter Rods

Bolt Torque
 - ALWAYS oil the threads and underside of bolt head thoroughly before installation!

WARNING!
 - Never assemble rods without thread lubrication.  Incorrect torque figures and/or seized threads will result.

These torque specifications are accurate for engine oil only, moly lubes will not give the same results. After drawing beam and cap together to seat both pieces evenly, torque should be reached in incremental steps of about 10-15 ft/lbs from one bolt to the other.

 - NEVER torque one side completely while the other is loose.

ARP 2000 bolts
 - 5/16"-24 thread bolts (3/8" socket) = 32 ft/lbs
 - 3/8"-24 thread bolts (7/16"/11mm socket) = 50 ft/lbs
 - 7/16"-20 thread bolts(7/16 or 1/2" socket) = 70 ft/lbs
 - Stretch method: .0055"

Rod Cap Removal
To remove the rod cap from the rod body, we recommend loosening and backing out the rod bolts approximately 1/4" then carefully tap on the head of the bolt with a soft-faced hammer (aluminum, brass or plastic) until the rod and cap part at the split line and the alignment sleeves are free.  You can then remove the bolts.

In Case of Rod Beam/Cylinder Bore Interference
Some makes of small bore-long stroke engines may require minor notching of the cylinder block to allow full rod rotation cycle without interference.  This should be done prior to final engine cleaning and assembly.  Allow 1/16" minimum clearance and watch location of oil ring at BDC.

DO NOT MODIFY ROD BEAM!

You can see it used here http://www.evans-tuning.com/

4G15 MIVEC RColt Headjobs - Porting and Polish - The Story So Far

Adam bent his rod a long time ago (see here). It's been a slow road to perfection but everything is coming together smoothly and nicely.






A lot of time and effort has gone into the head, what our goal? no idea yet.
We spent a lot of time finding shops and sourcing parts (parts & more part numbers here). We also worked out that the biggest over sized piston was 1mm. This is the biggest the stock head gasket can take (sizes). Its been quiet a learning experience.










We started at Head Torque in Osborne Park for a head porting, bore and hone, deck the block, machine the head. They cleaned the head and block and installed new valve steam seals that we sourced. They also balanced it all.








You can see the gouge in this photo >>>
Rule of thumb was if you can feel it with your nail, its too deep.

We aren't completely sure what they did, why? Because he couldn't tell us. He had forgot @_@
We then found a huge gouge withing one of the crank journals.










So off it went to Harris Engines, they offered knife edging, but for Adam's daily its probably too much. I however plan to do it. Got the crank reground to .25mm, next size up in bearings.
Originally it was still within stock spec, hence I am not too sure what Head Torque did.

Since then we have installed the main studs, unfortunately we snapped one of the main bolts. For some reason the paper that had the torque vales of the head studs ended up in the box with the main studs. @_@









The crank has now been machined, i plan to start the whole measurement process again and check oil clearances.







Luckily nothing was damaged. Main Studs Install
I then moved into checking oil clearances and bearing installs for the mains. Main cap install
Since the crank was off getting some work done I went a head and gapped the rings to each bore. Took it nice and slow, ring gapping.



The head was then taken to Luigi's Head shop. He ported it out. I have yet to check it all out, but he did his famous head porting with burr bits. It creates a very rough finish that some say helps flow through increase turbulence.
We plan to now run this head against a OEM head down in Northam. Its a 90min drive from Perth, but after some research it seems he will do what we are looking for.

Torsion Beam Camber Fix for a RColt FWD

I made another two sets of shims.

I was hoping to do a 2.5 deg one haha. But the client didn't need anything too crazy.

Instructions from the previous ones >

Overview
Background Info 














Design Part I, II, III
Fitment

I will post more of their alignment later.

Z27AG Shifter Linkage Repair Bracket

So back in 2011 when i installed my new clutch i broke the shift linkage bush. No surprise here as they are a crappy design and can tear when removing them.
Just the other week mine started to pop off. Looks like the balljoint cup wore out? or became loose over time.







I did spray it with WD40 a while back, wondering it that was the cause of the bush getting a bit too slippery and popping off.





So i designed a little clamp that can go over the ball stud but slide around on itself to a narrower part of the clamp. This allows it to hold onto the ball stud.

/solid-shifter-linkage-and-custom.html
/semi-solid-shifter-linkage-from-minkara.html





/shift-linkage-bushes.html


If this doesn't work i am considering a heim joint / rose joint.
Angle joint - consisting of ball stud and ball journal
Female Rod end with spherical plain bearing




Round end ball pressure screw - replace the current ballstud on the gear shifter

rod ends are available with slotted shank and compressible threaded section or with a "welding shank" i.e. a shank suitable for welding to another component.



http://www.directindustry.com/

Rod End Bearings, also known as a heim joint (N. America) or rose joint (U.K. and elsewhere), are a mechanical articulating joint. od End Bearings are used on the ends of cylinders, linkages, rods, and shafts to take up misalignment between connected parts. They consist of a spherically-shaped inner ring and a cylindrical bore for mounting on a shaft. Rod End bearings attach to rods and shafts via a male stud with external threads or a female housing with internal threads. Right-handed threads tighten in a clockwise direction and are the most commonly used type of thread. Left-handed threads tighten in a counterclockwise direction and must match the mating part.

Rod end bearings differ in terms of dimensional specifications and special features. Dimensional specifications include design units, bore diameter, major diameter, bearing thickness, housing diameter, overall length, and thread length. English design units include inches (in) and fractions of an inch. Metric design units include millimeters (mm) and centimeters (cm). Bore diameter is the inner diameter (ID) of the bearing bore. Major diameter is the nominal diameter to the top of the threads. Bearing thickness is the length through the bore. Housing diameter is the outside diameter (OD) of the bearing housing. Overall length is the distance from the top of the housing to the end of the shank. In terms of special features, some rod end bearings are self-lubricating or include a lubrication port. Others are corrosion-resistant or equipped with PTFE seals.

RColt Z27AG Seat Rails - Assorted Information

/converting-passenger-rails-to-driveside.html
/hks-kansai-laile-coltspeed-odd-parts-of.html

Another user Macca recommended modifying the OEM recaro rails

Ting Tuck Wai  Recommended -
BRIDE Super Seat Rail FO-Type for ZETA3 M121FO JPY 18,900 AUD 214.69. This is for driver side.



BRIDE [Seat Rail Matching] Z2#A '02/11-

RO - for Reclining Seat
Right M121RO
Left M122RO







MO - for Reclining Seat
Right M121MO
Left M122MO

F series - Full Bucket Seat
Right M121FO
Left M122FO





I use:
Part Number:　 MI037R
Manufacturer:　 MITSUBISHI
Car model:　 Colt, Colt R
Model:　 Z25, 27 Lo
Mounting position:　 right side (driver's seat)





Kansai Set Rails
/mitsubishi/colt_ralliart/colt_ralliart.html

The low position seat rail HKS Kansai Service KIM043 Colt Z27AG2 driver ~Y24,990
Colt Z27AG2 driver side (for genuine Recaro)

The low position seat rail HKS Kansai Service KIM041 Colt Z27AG driver ~Y23,940
Colt Z27AG driver side




The low position seat rail HKS Kansai Service KIM044 Colt Z27AG2 navigation ~Y24,990
Colt side navigation Z27AG2

The low position seat rail HKS Kansai Service KIM042 Colt Z27AG navigation ~Y23,940
Colt side navigation Z27AG