the hobbies, struggles and travels of my life...
Monday, February 25, 2013
Oil Pump & Timing Belt Removal/Replacement on RColt - Part II
Finally finished my mates oil pump. What a mission but I made it. Half the motor had to come apart lol.
Previous photos are here: /oil-pump-timing-belt-removalreplacement.html
Use paper clips to stop the belt from slipping
Used this strap to hold the cams at the right timing mark.
Belts for the underdrive pulley. This is the RPW lightweight pulley.
I didn't feel right using gasket good on the oil pickup so i went back to make a paper gasket.
I coated it with loctite #3 and torqued it.
An awesome read and breakdown of where to use certain loctite formulas:
/LoctiteSolutionsforVehicleRepair
Loctite® Gasket Sealant #3
- Dark reddish brown liquid
- Up to 0.12mm
- 55°C to 204°C
Loctite® Gasket Sealant #3
• Seals close fitting parts, especially
close tolerance flanges
• Slow drying, flexible setting
• Fuel resistant
Applications:
Recommended for close fitting machined surfaces, sealing of hoses and dressing solid gaskets
Monday, February 18, 2013
Carbon Bonnet Photos by CarbonRevo - As Requested
As mentioned here http://ayu452.blogspot.com.au/2013/02/my-carbonrevo-z27ag-goodies.html I had fitted the Carbon hood. I done some photos for peeps to see.
Photos on a Black Colt /rcolt-z27ag-carbon-hood-by-carbonrevo.html
Also a couple randoms of my mates Levin fitted with a 4AGZE
Not much to say, but here is the bonnet
Perth Sunset
Oil Pump & Timing Belt Removal/Replacement on RColt - Part I
What an epic pain in the ass. Do not break your oil pump filter pickup.
As you might have seen a mate reversed and clipped his driveway. It ripped off the oilfilter but also broke the threads where it attached to the pump. Hence a replacement of the entire assembly.
/replacement-of-oil-cooler-assy-mn149280.html
Oil pump and oil pickup. Dipstick was a little stuck. Bit of elbow grease. It has an Oring at its base.
Part II is here:
/oil-pump-timing-belt-removal
Sump removed and old oil pump removed.
Some of the bits and pieces.
You use a gasket. So you don't suck air at that location.
You should use a gasket. The RTV runs to big a risk of a piece coming off and seizing a pump.
Timing belts, tensions, engine mount, sump, block mount, alternator, front pipe and a bunch of other small things have to come off @_@
I have ordered a timing belt install tool.
Issues so far? besides all the bits to come off, the oil pump only goes on one way. It is notched to match the crank. The oil pickup uses a paper gasket which I didn't have. I used gasket goop. I hope it hasn't blocked up the hole to much. I put very little.
Cleaning the old goop off the pan and engine block.
Monday, February 11, 2013
Removing Gearbox & Installation Tips for a Z27AG RColt 4G15
Tools
- assorted pullers (LSD), tie rod separators, axle nut (32mm 6 sided socket - Impact!), female torx bits and assorted socket sets, spanners, geared spanners, hammers, crow bar, breaker bar, rattle gun, security bit set and torque wrench, clutch alignment tool
- 2 jacks (one jack to move gearbox and one to move engine) and 4 stands (I found its way easier getting the gearbox back in when car is level, hence the four stands)
Pictures: /lsd-install-z27ag-part-1-getting-box.html
Basic Video: /2012/04/z27ag-ralliart-colt-clutch-install.html
Inside the gearbox Part I: /disassemble-fitment-of-z27ag-gearbox.html
Inside the gearbox Part II: /disassemble-z27ag-gearbox-4g15-getrag.html
Inside the gearbox Part III: /gearbox-parts-lists-rebuilding-my.html
James Clutch Pics I: /z27ag-clutch-and-rear-main-pi.html
James Clutch Pics II/z27ag-clutch-and-rear-main-pii.html
More Information on clutches:
- /lsd-install-z27ag-part-1-getting-box.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-1-intake-removal.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-2-tools.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-3-demolished-brakes.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-4-axles.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-5-clutch-out.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-6-clutch-fork-install.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-7-broken-gear-linkage.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-8-morning-shopping.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-9-in-you-go.html
- /clutch-bed-in-procedure.html
Various torque setting
- Top engine mount bolt and nuts = 43+/-4Nm
- Starter motor = 24+/-3Nm
- Bottom engine mount three bolts = 58+/-6Nm
- bell housing bolts = 48+/-6Nm
- bell housing bottom cover (bolt that go into the gearbox) = 23+/-4Nm
- bell housing bottom cover (bolt that go into the engine block) = 48+/-6Nm
- LSD ring gear bolts = 85+/-5Nm
- 18 gearbox torx bolts = 27+/-1Nm
- clutch fork torx bolt = 10 +/-1Nm
- Clutch cover to flywheel bolts = 18+/-1Nm
- Flywheel bolts = 132 ± 5
- Rear oil seal case = 11 ± 1
- Strut Assembly (top hat bolts x 3) = 44 ± 5Nm
- Strut/Knucle connection = 88 ± 10Nm
- Bolt (Lower arm and cross member connection) = 123 ± 12Nm
- Nut (Lower arm and crossmember connection) = 123 ± 12Nm
- Lower arm assembly ball joint = 60 ± 6Nm
- Swaybar linkage = 30 ± 5Nm
- Swaybar stabilizer bracket to cross member = 50 ± 10Nm
- Tie rod to knucle connection = 25 ± 5Nm
- Axle nut = 245 ± 29Nm
- driver side axle cover (holds axle to engine block) = 23 ± 3Nm
Description Snippit (LSD + Gearbox)
1) I started with something simple, pressing on the bearings on the LSD. I couldn't find a bearing press and someone willing to help so I attempted it the old fashion way. I found that some people prefer this way so you can control it better.
I used a 32mm socket on top of a 34-36mm washer (i think) to tap on the bearings.
Use a bigger socket it you have one 32mm was my biggest ;)
NOTE: bearing and outer race are matched! do not mix them up and mark them.
2) Need to remove the axles from the gearbox. To do so you need to remove your rims, drop the gearbox oil, remove the axle nut (32mm) remove the tie rod from the hub and brakes.
You will also need to remove your brakes and rotors. Hang the caliper from the springs so no weight is on the brake lines.
To remove the tie rod a handy tool is a tie rod separator see right.
There are multiple types this is one of them.
To remove the gearbox filler/drain plugs you need a hex bit 5/16 i believe was the size.
It is worth while buying a M18x1.5mm brass fitting for the filler hole with a right angle bit so you can fill it up from the top of the engine bay anytime (I have completed this side project).
Then you remove your suspension to hub bolts (2 of them)...I marked all bolts, well tried to.
Once the hub is hanging freely you might have to smash the axle end to release it from the hub bearing.
Once it is released you can remove your hub assy or just leave it hanging.
Dont do what i need and get impatient and use a tierod splitter bar, you just break shit (fail @_@ )
If you want to remove the hub assy spray the lower ball joint with CRC then use the ball joint/tie rod separator.
I removed the stock sway bar bolt also.
3) Driver side axle should come out easily there is no circlip holding it in apart from a 2 bolt bracket.
I have a after market front pipe that was able to stay on the hole time. The stock one might get in the way and may need to be removed. The passenger side axle might be a bitch because it has an internal snapring/circlip...so you need to wedge something between the gearbox and the cv joint/bearing thing.
Try not to damage the inner axle oil seal when removing the axle...Do this by pulling it straight out slowly without hitting the sides. Otherwise you have to replace it like I did. Which is fairly easy.
4) Other things you need to remove are battery, airbox, clutch master cylinder and starter motor. Various bolts on all of them, nothing to special. Also need to remove the clutch cover (that's what i call it, no idea the real name)
Those 4 red bolts and 2 others hold on the clutch cover thing (right).
Remove the black thing is the clutch master and the other black thing is the starter (above right).
5) Remove all the stuff in the way of the gearbox top side. I removed the battery tray and some of the intake pipes. There are 3 engine mount bolts you need to take off. Also another 5 bolts holding the gearbox to the engine.
Some are in stupid places a long extension and universal joints will help or a wobble bar. You still have to remove the gear linkages with a flat head screw driver will help to pop them off.
If it breaks -
/semi-solid-shifter-linkage-from-minkara.html
/gearbox-drop-part-7-broken-gear-linkage.html
/solid-shifter-linkage-and-custom.html
Try not to damage them.
best to remove the 5 gearbox screws before the engine mount bolts.
My mounts stripped and had to recoil them @_@ /recoil-engine-brace-mount-z27ag.html this has happened to my mate. So it can happen to you. The ally binds and rips the threads with the bolt
Don't worry it wont drop, it is sitting on the crankshaft spline. Now the gearbox should come free with some movement. Try to break the seal on the bell housing.
From now on things get tricky. Dropping the gearbox off the spline @_@
We used two jacks to wiggle the engine up and down to get it to fall out. Do get an extra set of hands!!!
So by lifting the engine up (use a piece of wood between the oil sump and jack for protection) and down you need to be able to clear the gearbox off the side intrusion bar/car frame?
Clutch cover and front pipe (right)
- assorted pullers (LSD), tie rod separators, axle nut (32mm 6 sided socket - Impact!), female torx bits and assorted socket sets, spanners, geared spanners, hammers, crow bar, breaker bar, rattle gun, security bit set and torque wrench, clutch alignment tool
- 2 jacks (one jack to move gearbox and one to move engine) and 4 stands (I found its way easier getting the gearbox back in when car is level, hence the four stands)
Pictures: /lsd-install-z27ag-part-1-getting-box.html
Basic Video: /2012/04/z27ag-ralliart-colt-clutch-install.html
Inside the gearbox Part I: /disassemble-fitment-of-z27ag-gearbox.html
Inside the gearbox Part II: /disassemble-z27ag-gearbox-4g15-getrag.html
Inside the gearbox Part III: /gearbox-parts-lists-rebuilding-my.html
James Clutch Pics I: /z27ag-clutch-and-rear-main-pi.html
James Clutch Pics II/z27ag-clutch-and-rear-main-pii.html
More Information on clutches:
- /lsd-install-z27ag-part-1-getting-box.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-1-intake-removal.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-2-tools.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-3-demolished-brakes.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-4-axles.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-5-clutch-out.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-6-clutch-fork-install.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-7-broken-gear-linkage.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-8-morning-shopping.html
- /gearbox-drop-part-9-in-you-go.html
- /clutch-bed-in-procedure.html
Various torque setting
- Top engine mount bolt and nuts = 43+/-4Nm
- Starter motor = 24+/-3Nm
- Bottom engine mount three bolts = 58+/-6Nm
- bell housing bolts = 48+/-6Nm
- bell housing bottom cover (bolt that go into the gearbox) = 23+/-4Nm
- bell housing bottom cover (bolt that go into the engine block) = 48+/-6Nm
- LSD ring gear bolts = 85+/-5Nm
- 18 gearbox torx bolts = 27+/-1Nm
- clutch fork torx bolt = 10 +/-1Nm
- Clutch cover to flywheel bolts = 18+/-1Nm
- Flywheel bolts = 132 ± 5
- Rear oil seal case = 11 ± 1
- Strut Assembly (top hat bolts x 3) = 44 ± 5Nm
- Strut/Knucle connection = 88 ± 10Nm
- Bolt (Lower arm and cross member connection) = 123 ± 12Nm
- Nut (Lower arm and crossmember connection) = 123 ± 12Nm
- Lower arm assembly ball joint = 60 ± 6Nm
- Swaybar linkage = 30 ± 5Nm
- Swaybar stabilizer bracket to cross member = 50 ± 10Nm
- Tie rod to knucle connection = 25 ± 5Nm
- Axle nut = 245 ± 29Nm
- driver side axle cover (holds axle to engine block) = 23 ± 3Nm
Description Snippit (LSD + Gearbox)
1) I started with something simple, pressing on the bearings on the LSD. I couldn't find a bearing press and someone willing to help so I attempted it the old fashion way. I found that some people prefer this way so you can control it better.
I used a 32mm socket on top of a 34-36mm washer (i think) to tap on the bearings.
Use a bigger socket it you have one 32mm was my biggest ;)
NOTE: bearing and outer race are matched! do not mix them up and mark them.
2) Need to remove the axles from the gearbox. To do so you need to remove your rims, drop the gearbox oil, remove the axle nut (32mm) remove the tie rod from the hub and brakes.
You will also need to remove your brakes and rotors. Hang the caliper from the springs so no weight is on the brake lines.
To remove the tie rod a handy tool is a tie rod separator see right.
There are multiple types this is one of them.
To remove the gearbox filler/drain plugs you need a hex bit 5/16 i believe was the size.
It is worth while buying a M18x1.5mm brass fitting for the filler hole with a right angle bit so you can fill it up from the top of the engine bay anytime (I have completed this side project).
Then you remove your suspension to hub bolts (2 of them)...I marked all bolts, well tried to.
Once the hub is hanging freely you might have to smash the axle end to release it from the hub bearing.
Once it is released you can remove your hub assy or just leave it hanging.
Dont do what i need and get impatient and use a tierod splitter bar, you just break shit (fail @_@ )
If you want to remove the hub assy spray the lower ball joint with CRC then use the ball joint/tie rod separator.
I removed the stock sway bar bolt also.
3) Driver side axle should come out easily there is no circlip holding it in apart from a 2 bolt bracket.
I have a after market front pipe that was able to stay on the hole time. The stock one might get in the way and may need to be removed. The passenger side axle might be a bitch because it has an internal snapring/circlip...so you need to wedge something between the gearbox and the cv joint/bearing thing.
Try not to damage the inner axle oil seal when removing the axle...Do this by pulling it straight out slowly without hitting the sides. Otherwise you have to replace it like I did. Which is fairly easy.
4) Other things you need to remove are battery, airbox, clutch master cylinder and starter motor. Various bolts on all of them, nothing to special. Also need to remove the clutch cover (that's what i call it, no idea the real name)
Those 4 red bolts and 2 others hold on the clutch cover thing (right).
Remove the black thing is the clutch master and the other black thing is the starter (above right).
5) Remove all the stuff in the way of the gearbox top side. I removed the battery tray and some of the intake pipes. There are 3 engine mount bolts you need to take off. Also another 5 bolts holding the gearbox to the engine.
Some are in stupid places a long extension and universal joints will help or a wobble bar. You still have to remove the gear linkages with a flat head screw driver will help to pop them off.
If it breaks -
/semi-solid-shifter-linkage-from-minkara.html
/gearbox-drop-part-7-broken-gear-linkage.html
/solid-shifter-linkage-and-custom.html
Try not to damage them.
best to remove the 5 gearbox screws before the engine mount bolts.
My mounts stripped and had to recoil them @_@ /recoil-engine-brace-mount-z27ag.html this has happened to my mate. So it can happen to you. The ally binds and rips the threads with the bolt
Don't worry it wont drop, it is sitting on the crankshaft spline. Now the gearbox should come free with some movement. Try to break the seal on the bell housing.
From now on things get tricky. Dropping the gearbox off the spline @_@
We used two jacks to wiggle the engine up and down to get it to fall out. Do get an extra set of hands!!!
So by lifting the engine up (use a piece of wood between the oil sump and jack for protection) and down you need to be able to clear the gearbox off the side intrusion bar/car frame?
Clutch cover and front pipe (right)
No Limits - 10/01/2013 - Long Track Video @ Contour
Uploaded a video of the long track attack.
http://contour.com/stories/no-limits-10012013-long-track
This time around i made a 59.26 (optimal time is a 58.97). So I have gotten slightly quicker. I feel its almost time for Rcomp. Might be hitting the limit of the street tires. I also want to do some brake tweak. E.g. the bigger rotors. But that means bigger rims etc.
This was the first time to try out the new alignment 3.4degrees on the front. I took of a whole degree. Much more stable in braking and everyday driving.
Official times:
Long - 10 laps - 1:11.209 (fastest lap was 5 of 10)
Short - 6 laps - 59.246 (fastest lap was 1 of 6)
/no-limits-10012013.html
http://contour.com/stories/no-limits-10012013-long-track
This time around i made a 59.26 (optimal time is a 58.97). So I have gotten slightly quicker. I feel its almost time for Rcomp. Might be hitting the limit of the street tires. I also want to do some brake tweak. E.g. the bigger rotors. But that means bigger rims etc.
This was the first time to try out the new alignment 3.4degrees on the front. I took of a whole degree. Much more stable in braking and everyday driving.
Official times:
Long - 10 laps - 1:11.209 (fastest lap was 5 of 10)
Short - 6 laps - 59.246 (fastest lap was 1 of 6)
/no-limits-10012013.html
Friday, February 8, 2013
Z27AG RColt - MR307282 with 294MM Discs
The Parts I Ordered Recently:
2 x MR389651 - Front brake pads - Shim Kit
2 x MB857840 - Caliper service kit for all front 2 pot caliper EVO
2 x MR307282 - Front Caliper Brackets
After some digging around I found a Colt guy that attempted what I am about to.
I have a lot more info here, scroll down: /project-mu-or-carbotech-276mm-or-294mm.html
Parts on the shopping list includes bigger discs and mounting bolts M12 P1.25 L25.
The disc will have to be cross drilled to a 4stud. As i may not be moving to 5 stud just yet. /random-rcolt-pics-5-stud-hub-comparison.html
I also had to buy a new oil pump assy for my friend
- /replacement-of-oil-cooler-assy-mn149280.html
------------------- E39A Galant VR-4 -------------------
http://minkara.carview.co.jp/en/userid/398319/car/363133/4237190/parts.aspx
E39A Galant VR-4, Regnum this caliper, the original story was diverted to CD9A/CE9A Lancer Evolution I ~ III. Information was floating around the net as I remembered, as was more than 10 years ago. Get information EvoI ~ III "caliper can be mounted" with the Z27AG Colt Ralliart Verson-R from that strange occasions, (^ ^ bid to Regukyari used without any investigation of the caliper set OFF; chance with "honest talk (laughs) stuff called " . ^ ^ (it mon that gamble reckless pretty I did not have to do if you think now the time # is material diverted is also a shop certain Tochigi; though depending on the rotor and the Pad to combine, once not live without wearing. effective. greatly increased in both of control "drilling four rotor" drawback only, who drilled easily be put dimensions on or ya ironworker. to or less shop you can ask this ^ ^ (I though I; I ☆ We are doing on their own but also in notebook maintenance fees, hole drilling, the price is M12P1 rotor & pad, O / H kit, four other price of only LR caliper. .. .25 There is a need to align the two bolts of the total cost of T25 was introduced about 45 000 yen Please contact us If you insist # The four holes (^ ^;
------------------- MR307282 -------------------
http://minkara.carview.co.jp/en/userid/398319/car/363133/2184344/note.aspx
Mr. summit of your friends, because it was taking too finely genuine parts in passing that the replacement caliper, Memorandum of the part number. (Including all parts below), brake caliper Assy Left: MR370776: Right MR370775 /
Support caliper MR307282 (common side)
is attached to the # knuckle is necessary to provide a high strength bolts of M12 P1.25 L25.
Pad clip MR389599
MU001458 banjo bolt - copper washers sold separately ※
Slide pin MB618228 - who put on the upper side of # caliper.
Previous slide pin rubber bushing MB618215 - However ※, it has been also included in the O / H kit.
Slide pin MB618227 - who put on the lower side of the # caliper.
Added 1/25 ◎ compatible product overhaul kit MB857840 found two genuine. Around 5000 yen, genuine is here are sold at about $ 3000. It also comes with the same grease genuine, or better to use the SG of Wako's is it a good idea here. Severe corrosion grease provided are also fixing slide the piston pin.
Wednesday, February 6, 2013
My CarbonRevo Z27AG Goodies
The second hood out of three has arrived. One for a friend's Black Colt as seen here /rcolt-z27ag-carbon-hood-by-carbonrevo.html and one for my red colt and another for a white colt. The white Colt is in the process of being resurrected :)
Always a pleasure dealing with CarbonRevo. You can read more in the previous entry.
Q: I asked the question about an adjustable the hood striker / latch. This would allow people to control the pitch of the bonnet. Mine hasn't lined up the best and I am planning to mod the latch. The U shaped hood striker bolt accompanied would aid adjustment.
A: Try not to do anything to the latch on the hood. Instead u can choose to adjust the lock on your car. U can make it lower. Its fast and safe. Coz if you touch the one on the hood, its gonna be alot dangerous. 1 reason why we are not using the adjustable lock is that there are case of other manufacturer hoods using this kind of lock and they gave way after some time. It has a bigger chance of flipping at high speeds.
- I do plan to remove the the whole lock latch assembly and add hood pins. But as a daily it isn't a good security item.
For the short term I modified the lock mechanism, oversized the holes to allow a 5mm height increase. I am still not happy and will be tweaking it further. Or just convert to hood pins lol
http://www.aerocatch.com/
Looking at water sprays to suit the bonnet:
shaft diameter = 11.3mm we wants <8mm
clips = 14.6mm we wants <12mm
clip thickness = 6.6mm we wants <5mm
head is 23mm by 15m
Always a pleasure dealing with CarbonRevo. You can read more in the previous entry.
Q: I asked the question about an adjustable the hood striker / latch. This would allow people to control the pitch of the bonnet. Mine hasn't lined up the best and I am planning to mod the latch. The U shaped hood striker bolt accompanied would aid adjustment.
A: Try not to do anything to the latch on the hood. Instead u can choose to adjust the lock on your car. U can make it lower. Its fast and safe. Coz if you touch the one on the hood, its gonna be alot dangerous. 1 reason why we are not using the adjustable lock is that there are case of other manufacturer hoods using this kind of lock and they gave way after some time. It has a bigger chance of flipping at high speeds.
- I do plan to remove the the whole lock latch assembly and add hood pins. But as a daily it isn't a good security item.
For the short term I modified the lock mechanism, oversized the holes to allow a 5mm height increase. I am still not happy and will be tweaking it further. Or just convert to hood pins lol
http://www.aerocatch.com/
Looking at water sprays to suit the bonnet:
shaft diameter = 11.3mm we wants <8mm
clips = 14.6mm we wants <12mm
clip thickness = 6.6mm we wants <5mm
head is 23mm by 15m
Friday, February 1, 2013
Forged 4G15 - Pick List Continued
Why Forged?
The 4G15 shat a rod, no idea why. /selecting-bearing-piston-sizes-for.html
Instead of just stick another rod in from a spare motor and new bearing and rings the owner decided to freshen it all up!
More photos: /bent-rod-z27ag-4g15-more-to-come.html
I will be going down the same road in about 6months.
---------------------------------------------------
/z27a-4g15-engine-re-assembly-torque.html
Total displacement mL 1,468
Bore × Stroke mm 75.5 × 82.0
Compression ratio 9.0
Compression chamber Pentroof
Camshaft arrangement DOHC
Number of valve Intake 2
Exhaust 2
Valve timing Intake opening BTDC 34° − ATDC 6°
Intake closing ABDC 30° − ABDC 70°
Exhaust opening BBDC 50°
Exhaust closing ATDC 10°
Fuel system Electronically controlled multipoint fuel injection
Rocker arm - Roller type
Auto-lash adjuster - Equipped
---------------------------------------------------
/rcolt-rebuild-pick-list-part-numbers.html
& more details below on rods etc
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
The SOHC 4G15 displaces 1.5 L (1,468 cc) with a bore and stroke of 75.5 mm x 82.0mm.
A version of the 4G15 was produced with gasoline multi port injection. It has approximately 92 hp (69 kW) on the 1993 Mirage model. There is also a DOHC 16 valve variant which is uncommon. A DOHC MIVEC turbo variant of the engine is also still in production to date (4G15T), serving in the Mitsubishi Colt series, offering 163 hp (122 kW) on the latest Colt Version-R (with exhaust enhancement). The most powerful version yet of this engine is found in the Brabus Smart Forfour, with a total output of 177 hp.
Applications:
Mitsubishi Colt
1991-current Mitsubishi Colt T120SS (Indonesia, 86 PS)
Mitsubishi Maven
1995-2002 Mitsubishi Mirage (US)
Mitsubishi Lancer
Mitsubishi Dingo
BYD F3 (China) 2007-2008 model years 4G15S, EFI, distributor-less ignition
Dodge Colt
Eagle Summit
Hyundai Excel
Proton Saga/Iswara
Proton Satria/Wira
Soueast V3 Lingyue
Smart Forfour
Zotye Nomad 2009
JAC, CHINA
Briance, china
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some Info via Juri
4G18 crank and stroke that motor to 1600cm
You would be the first to do it with the 4G18 on a 4G15T
4G18 is only 1587ccm compared to our stock 1467ccm (or 1487ccm with +0,5mm pistons - Max on our 4G15T would be +1mm pistons and a resulting 1506ccm)
1st oversize is ok. Gives you also +20cc -> 1467->1487ccm.
Maxspeedingrods are China but so are most of our parts i guess.
Our stock rods are the same compared to the 4G15 NA engine
Greek guys on a budget only used better rods with stock pistons which were changed to full floating function to boost their cars safely to 280hp.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rods - http://www.pauter.com/4340_rods.htm
4340 X-BEAM BILLET ROD / MIT-180-450-1310F 4340 rods for Mitsubishi Mirage 4G15 1.5L
Length = 5.157
Approx Pricing of 4340 C'moly steel
Price each = $215.00US
set of 4 = $860.00US
Pauter 4340 X-Beam Connecting Rods Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5L, set of 4
Pauter Billet 4340 X-Beam Connecting rods for the Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5L engine are precision CNC-machined from the finest 4340 forgings available. Each rod is heat-treated to Rockwell C36 and then full-coverage shotpeened. The rods are then end to end balanced in sets and then final sized on the big and small ends. Each rod comes standard with ARP 2000 bolts rated at 220,000 psi tensile strength and aluminum-bronze wrist pin bushing. Each set comes complete with (4) rods and (8) rod bolts.
Features
- Precision CNC-Machined from E4340 Chrome-moly forging
- Heat-treated to Rockwell C36
- Full coverage shotpeened
- End-to-end balanced in sets
- ARP 2000 bolts rated at 220,000 psi tensile strength
- Aluminum-bronze wrist pin bushings
Pauter offers unique single rib design E- 4340 chrome-moly forged rods. The clean, windage-reducing design and strength of these Pauter rods has proven to be extremely popular with racers, and their consistent high quality and excellent finish has resulted in many satisfied customers.
4340 Billet Rod Specifications:
E4340 vacuum melt chrome moly forging – CNC machined
Heat-treated to Rockwell C36; full coverage shotpeened; end-to-end balanced in sets.
Pauter 220k psi tensile strength MSP220 steel, J-formed, rolled thread racing rod bolts (standard.)
Aluminum-bronze wrist pin bushings (standard.)
EDM pressure-fed oiling to pin available for extra (see below)
Custom pin diameters and center-to-center rod lengths can be ordered at no additional cost. High-performance bearings, tool steel wrist pins and forged aluminum pistons can be ordered specifically coordinated to your rod order (please inquire.)
Keep in mind that we are geared for the production of custom sizes in all engine series.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Technical information about your Pauter Rods
Bolt Torque
- ALWAYS oil the threads and underside of bolt head thoroughly before installation!
WARNING!
- Never assemble rods without thread lubrication. Incorrect torque figures and/or seized threads will result.
These torque specifications are accurate for engine oil only, moly lubes will not give the same results. After drawing beam and cap together to seat both pieces evenly, torque should be reached in incremental steps of about 10-15 ft/lbs from one bolt to the other.
- NEVER torque one side completely while the other is loose.
ARP 2000 bolts
- 5/16"-24 thread bolts (3/8" socket) = 32 ft/lbs
- 3/8"-24 thread bolts (7/16"/11mm socket) = 50 ft/lbs
- 7/16"-20 thread bolts(7/16 or 1/2" socket) = 70 ft/lbs
- Stretch method: .0055"
Rod Cap Removal
To remove the rod cap from the rod body, we recommend loosening and backing out the rod bolts approximately 1/4" then carefully tap on the head of the bolt with a soft-faced hammer (aluminum, brass or plastic) until the rod and cap part at the split line and the alignment sleeves are free. You can then remove the bolts.
In Case of Rod Beam/Cylinder Bore Interference
Some makes of small bore-long stroke engines may require minor notching of the cylinder block to allow full rod rotation cycle without interference. This should be done prior to final engine cleaning and assembly. Allow 1/16" minimum clearance and watch location of oil ring at BDC.
DO NOT MODIFY ROD BEAM!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Other Manufactures - http://www.mirageforums.net/
*Pistons and Wrist Pins;
- CP Pistons: http://www.cppistons.com/products/sport_compact/
- JE: http://www.jepistons.com/
- Ross: http://www.rosspistons.com/
- Wiseco: http://www.wiseco.com/
- Arias: http://www.ariaspistons.com/
- Venolia: http://www.venolia.com/main.html
- Manley: http://www.manleyperformance.com/sc/
These piston manufacturers will make custom forged or hypereutectic pistons to order.
*Connecting rods;
- Crower: http://www.crower.com/index.shtml
- Eagle; http://www.eaglerod.com/
- Scat: http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/
- Manley: http://www.manleyperformance.com/sc/
- Pauter: http://www.pauter.com/4340_rods.htm
MIT-190-480-1334F[1.8]
These manufacturers will make custom H-beam or I-beam rods to order.
*Crankshaft;
- PowerZone: 4g15 stroker kit (1600cc}
- Scat and Eagle: Custom made to order.{Website locations listed above.}
*Strengthened Fasteners;
ARP: http://www.arp-bolts.com/
Main Stud Kit, ConRod Bolt Kit, Head Stud Kit
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pistons - http://www.mre-books.com/
Piston-to-Wall Clearance
The right clearance between the piston skirts and the cylinder walls is absolutely essential. If the
piston-to-wall clearance is too large, the pistons rock back and forth in the bore. This prevents the
rings from sealing the cylinder properly, and can crack the skirts as the piston slaps from side to
side. If the clearance is too small, the piston will literally stick in the bore, scuffing the skirts and
destroying the wall finish. There’s a thin line between too much and not enough, but providing the
correct running clearance pays dividends in both durability and horsepower.
[Wiseco]
What kind of piston-to-wall clearance can I run?
A.
The factors that affect this are cylinder wall thickness, whether the block is filled, the overall compression height of the piston, piston material and thickness, and whether a marine engine is to see fresh-water cooling. Most small blocks get .004 piston to wall clearance and most big blocks get .005 due to the use of our 2618 high-strength alloy. For heavy blower and nitrous applications, Wiseco recommends adding .001 to the standard clearance. Special note: Clearance numbers are obtained from measuring the largest diameter of the piston, typically at the bottom of the skirt. All measurements should be taken 90 degrees from the pin centerline.
What grit hone job? http://www.enginehones.com/technical.html
What GRIT should I order?
Hone grit is one of those topics that will vary vastly from OEM manufacturer, ring designer to professional engine builder and will depend on how bad the cylinder wear is and whether a deglaze will do the job . If you have a poor condition bore with rust or deep grooves you will need to use a 120 grit hone to remove the rust and remove the deep grooves. Then follow up with the appropriate grit depending on ring application. For a basic deglaze to refresh the engine just use the grit depending on ring type. EngineHones.com has built several engine mules (our guys race too!) to investigate the grit question with on-track results. The table below which was derived from our engines, ring manufactures and technical literature. Our best seller to commercial engine rebuilders and power-sports shops is the 240 grit hone. Our guidelines are as follows:
Iron Cylinder Ring Type:
OEM Iron rings: 180 or 240 grit
Chrome rings: 240 or 320 grit
Moly Rings: 320 or 400 grit
Plasma Rings: 320 or 400 grit
not sure ring type: 240 grit
Manufacturers Recommendation:
Hastings: 240 grit
Akerly & Childs (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Akerly & Childs (Moly): 400 grit
Perfect Circle (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Perfect Circle (Moly): 400 grit
Speed Pro Hellfire (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Total Seal (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Total Seal (Moly): 320-400 grit
Harley Davidson(stock): 320 grit
Wiseco (chrome top): 320 grit
Mahle (Moly/Chome top): 280 grit
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Main Studs - ARP 207-5401 Main Stud Kit
- 2.0L (4G63) DOHC (2007 & earlier)
ARP main studs are manufactured from 8740 chrome moly steel, heattreated in-house to 200,000 psi tensile strength, and precision J-form threads rolled after heat-treat to create a fastener that has threads 2000% stronger than others. All kits come complete with hardened parallel-ground washers and aerospace quality nuts. Reduce crankshaft flex and main cap fretting with these premium quality main studs. Don’t settle for anything less than the best!
http://arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_torque_us.shtml
INSTALLATION METHOD FOR MAIN STUD KITS /207-5401.pdf
200,000 PSI 10 mm Diameter
1. To ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings, clean ALL threads in the block. Chase the threads if necessary with ARP Thread Chaser.
2. Clean and inspect all hardware prior to installation. Look for obvious defects or shipping damages, plus proper fit, length and dimension.
3. Screw the studs into the block “HAND TIGHT ONLY”.
NOTE: LOCTITE MAY BE USED IF A PERMANENT MOUNTING OF THE STUDS IS PREFERRED. THE FASTENERS, HOWEVER, MUST BE TORQUED PRIOR TO THE LOCTITE SETTING UP.
4. Install the main caps and check for binding or misalignment.
5. Lubricate the stud threads, nuts and washers with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT. Then install the washers and the nuts onto the studs and tighten them hand tight. ARP recommends using the ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT that is provided with each kit as opposed to motor oil. This is due to higher friction on the studs as well as inconsistencies in the clamping force of the fasteners when motor oil or other low quality lubricants are used. PRELOAD (TORQUE) RECOMMENDATIONS
6. Following the manufacturers recommended torque sequence tighten the nuts in three equal steps to 60 ft lbs with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.
FOOTNOTE: When changing from factory fasteners to high strength fasteners, clamping force and tolerances will change, therefore it will be necessary to check the main bearing bores for proper size and out of round condition after installation of the studs and align hone the cylinder block if necessary. The main bores should always be align honed using the same fasteners and lubricant which will be installed during final engine assembly at the recommended preload.
Universal Torque Specs
http://arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_torque_us.shtml
Listed here are the general torque recommendations for most ARP fasteners. Recommended torque is equal 75% of the fastener’s yield strength. Simply read down to the correct fastener size, then across to find the torque value for your application. Always lubricate the fasteners prior to applying torque to ensure accurate readings.
NOTE: The torque values represented here are intended to be for general information only, not for specific installations. On specific installations, where supplied instructions deviate from the torque values listed here, always follow the specific instructions packaged with each kit. Find the instructions for your kit here.
U.S. STANDARD TORQUE VALUES
Recommended Torque to Achieve Optimum Preload (Clamping Force)
10mm
Torque ARP lube (ft-lbs) - Preload (lbs)
: 54 - 9,970
:170,000/180,000PSI (1,171 Nmm2)
: 62 - 11,305
:190,000/200,000PSI (1,309 Nmm2)
: 70 - 12,640
:220,000PSI (1,515 Nmm2)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Oil port mod is common on the 4G63 e.g. /4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html
"I have found out a restriction can occur when excessive milling of the head has been done.
Resulting in low/poor oil flow through the cylinder head that can cause lifter tic, cam tower gaulding, and in some cases on turbo engines that feed the turbo oil from a port on the head, to cause the turbo to fail."
INSTALLATION METHOD FOR HEAD STUD KITS
Part Number: 201-4302 Application: BMW 2.5L-3.2L (M50/S50US/S52US) Inline 6-cyl
1. To ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings, clean ALL threads in the block. Chase if necessary with ARP Thread Chaser, part number 912-0003 (M10 X 1.5).
2. Clean and inspect all hardware prior to installation. Look for obvious defects or shipping damages, plus proper fit, length and dimension.
3. If the cylinder head studs protrude into a water jacket, lubricate the block threads of the studs with ARP THREAD SEALER.
4. Screw studs into the block “HAND TIGHT ONLY”.
NOTE: LOCTITE MAY BE USED IF A PERMANENT MOUNTING OF THE STUDS IS PREFERRED. THE FASTENERS, HOWEVER, MUST BE TORQUED PRIOR TO THE LOCTITE SETTING UP.
5. Install the cylinder head(s) and check for binding or misalignment.
6. Lubricate the stud threads, nuts and washers with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT. Then install the washers and the nuts onto the studs and tighten them hand tight. ARP recommends using the ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT that is provided with each kit as opposed to motor oil. This is due to higher friction on the studs as well as inconsistencies in the clamping force of the fasteners when motor oil or other low quality lubricants are used.
PRELOAD (TORQUE) RECOMMENDATIONS
7. Following the manufacturers recommended torque sequence tighten the nuts in three equal steps to 85 ft lbs with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.
Max Length 4.515"
Mitsubishi 4G13/4G15/4G18 Elring - 004.260
MD355550 - AJUSA 81030700 Bolt cylinder head / set 10 pcs /
Cylinder Head Bolts Set Proton/Mitsubishi ELRING 004.260
AJUSA 80032200
BGA BK3394
CORTEC O016813B
ELRING 00426 / 004.260
FAI Au... B1825
MITSUBISHI MD355550
TRISCAN 984204
Application & Descripition
MITSUBISHI
Thread Size M9
Thread Pitch [mm] 1,25
Length [mm] 101
Stretch Bolts
Bolt Head-/Nut Design
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Conrod bearings - 4B1130 - OE P# MD143090 - AE Clevite CB1588AL(4)
Mitsubishi 4G15 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 3v 381
Mitsubishi 4G17 1343cc Inline4 SOHC 2v 380
Mitsubishi G13B 1298cc Inline4 SOHC 2v 387
Mitsubishi G15B 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 3v 386
Main Bearings - 5M1124 (Half Groove) - OE P# MD147999 - AE Clevite MS2075P **
Hyundai G4AJ 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 2v 257
Hyundai G4DJ 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 3v 257
Mitsubishi 4G15 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 3v 381
Mitsubishi 4G17 1343cc Inline4 SOHC 2v 380
Mitsubishi G13B 1298cc Inline4 SOHC 2v 387
Mitsubishi G15B 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 3v 386
Features:
Heat treated steel
Nitrided harden
Full flow oiling
Profiled counterweights
Machined for lightness
Micro-polished to exacting tolerances.
Straight shot and chamfer oil holes
Large fillet radius on all journals
Precious ground, micro polished, balanced & magnaflued
Cross-Drilled holes for best rod journal lubrication
Balanced crankshaft
Greater torque and horsepower
Similar to original 4G13/15 main and rod journal sizes
Rod journal 42mm
Main journal diameter 48mm
Stroke 87mm
Weight 11.7kg
Conversion to 1.6 liter
Note :
Use standard size 4G13/4G15 main & con rod bearing.
U may select to use standard 4G13/4G15 con rod or standard waja 4g18 1.6 con rod.
Piston 4G13/4G15 cannot be use. U may use waja 4G18 1.6 standard piston.
Original 4G13/4G15 flywheel can be fitted in nicely using all original bolts.
Original 4G13/4G15 crankshaft stroke 82mm.
Main bolt tightening crank pulley to crankshaft still using original 4G13/4G15.
The 4G15 shat a rod, no idea why. /selecting-bearing-piston-sizes-for.html
Instead of just stick another rod in from a spare motor and new bearing and rings the owner decided to freshen it all up!
More photos: /bent-rod-z27ag-4g15-more-to-come.html
I will be going down the same road in about 6months.
---------------------------------------------------
More on our motor - 4G15T
/z27a-4g15-engine-re-assembly-torque.html
Total displacement mL 1,468
Bore × Stroke mm 75.5 × 82.0
Compression ratio 9.0
Compression chamber Pentroof
Camshaft arrangement DOHC
Number of valve Intake 2
Exhaust 2
Valve timing Intake opening BTDC 34° − ATDC 6°
Intake closing ABDC 30° − ABDC 70°
Exhaust opening BBDC 50°
Exhaust closing ATDC 10°
Fuel system Electronically controlled multipoint fuel injection
Rocker arm - Roller type
Auto-lash adjuster - Equipped
---------------------------------------------------
Parts
/rcolt-rebuild-pick-list-part-numbers.html
& more details below on rods etc
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Generic 4G15 - http://en.wikipedia.org/
The SOHC 4G15 displaces 1.5 L (1,468 cc) with a bore and stroke of 75.5 mm x 82.0mm.
A version of the 4G15 was produced with gasoline multi port injection. It has approximately 92 hp (69 kW) on the 1993 Mirage model. There is also a DOHC 16 valve variant which is uncommon. A DOHC MIVEC turbo variant of the engine is also still in production to date (4G15T), serving in the Mitsubishi Colt series, offering 163 hp (122 kW) on the latest Colt Version-R (with exhaust enhancement). The most powerful version yet of this engine is found in the Brabus Smart Forfour, with a total output of 177 hp.
Applications:
Mitsubishi Colt
1991-current Mitsubishi Colt T120SS (Indonesia, 86 PS)
Mitsubishi Maven
1995-2002 Mitsubishi Mirage (US)
Mitsubishi Lancer
Mitsubishi Dingo
BYD F3 (China) 2007-2008 model years 4G15S, EFI, distributor-less ignition
Dodge Colt
Eagle Summit
Hyundai Excel
Proton Saga/Iswara
Proton Satria/Wira
Soueast V3 Lingyue
Smart Forfour
Zotye Nomad 2009
JAC, CHINA
Briance, china
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some Info via Juri
4G18 crank and stroke that motor to 1600cm
You would be the first to do it with the 4G18 on a 4G15T
4G18 is only 1587ccm compared to our stock 1467ccm (or 1487ccm with +0,5mm pistons - Max on our 4G15T would be +1mm pistons and a resulting 1506ccm)
1st oversize is ok. Gives you also +20cc -> 1467->1487ccm.
Maxspeedingrods are China but so are most of our parts i guess.
Our stock rods are the same compared to the 4G15 NA engine
Greek guys on a budget only used better rods with stock pistons which were changed to full floating function to boost their cars safely to 280hp.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rods - http://www.pauter.com/4340_rods.htm
4340 X-BEAM BILLET ROD / MIT-180-450-1310F 4340 rods for Mitsubishi Mirage 4G15 1.5L
Length = 5.157
Approx Pricing of 4340 C'moly steel
Price each = $215.00US
set of 4 = $860.00US
Pauter 4340 X-Beam Connecting Rods Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5L, set of 4
Pauter Billet 4340 X-Beam Connecting rods for the Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5L engine are precision CNC-machined from the finest 4340 forgings available. Each rod is heat-treated to Rockwell C36 and then full-coverage shotpeened. The rods are then end to end balanced in sets and then final sized on the big and small ends. Each rod comes standard with ARP 2000 bolts rated at 220,000 psi tensile strength and aluminum-bronze wrist pin bushing. Each set comes complete with (4) rods and (8) rod bolts.
Features
- Precision CNC-Machined from E4340 Chrome-moly forging
- Heat-treated to Rockwell C36
- Full coverage shotpeened
- End-to-end balanced in sets
- ARP 2000 bolts rated at 220,000 psi tensile strength
- Aluminum-bronze wrist pin bushings
Pauter offers unique single rib design E- 4340 chrome-moly forged rods. The clean, windage-reducing design and strength of these Pauter rods has proven to be extremely popular with racers, and their consistent high quality and excellent finish has resulted in many satisfied customers.
4340 Billet Rod Specifications:
E4340 vacuum melt chrome moly forging – CNC machined
Heat-treated to Rockwell C36; full coverage shotpeened; end-to-end balanced in sets.
Pauter 220k psi tensile strength MSP220 steel, J-formed, rolled thread racing rod bolts (standard.)
Aluminum-bronze wrist pin bushings (standard.)
EDM pressure-fed oiling to pin available for extra (see below)
Custom pin diameters and center-to-center rod lengths can be ordered at no additional cost. High-performance bearings, tool steel wrist pins and forged aluminum pistons can be ordered specifically coordinated to your rod order (please inquire.)
Keep in mind that we are geared for the production of custom sizes in all engine series.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Technical information about your Pauter Rods
Bolt Torque
- ALWAYS oil the threads and underside of bolt head thoroughly before installation!
WARNING!
- Never assemble rods without thread lubrication. Incorrect torque figures and/or seized threads will result.
These torque specifications are accurate for engine oil only, moly lubes will not give the same results. After drawing beam and cap together to seat both pieces evenly, torque should be reached in incremental steps of about 10-15 ft/lbs from one bolt to the other.
- NEVER torque one side completely while the other is loose.
ARP 2000 bolts
- 5/16"-24 thread bolts (3/8" socket) = 32 ft/lbs
- 3/8"-24 thread bolts (7/16"/11mm socket) = 50 ft/lbs
- 7/16"-20 thread bolts(7/16 or 1/2" socket) = 70 ft/lbs
- Stretch method: .0055"
Rod Cap Removal
To remove the rod cap from the rod body, we recommend loosening and backing out the rod bolts approximately 1/4" then carefully tap on the head of the bolt with a soft-faced hammer (aluminum, brass or plastic) until the rod and cap part at the split line and the alignment sleeves are free. You can then remove the bolts.
In Case of Rod Beam/Cylinder Bore Interference
Some makes of small bore-long stroke engines may require minor notching of the cylinder block to allow full rod rotation cycle without interference. This should be done prior to final engine cleaning and assembly. Allow 1/16" minimum clearance and watch location of oil ring at BDC.
DO NOT MODIFY ROD BEAM!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Other Manufactures - http://www.mirageforums.net/
*Pistons and Wrist Pins;
- CP Pistons: http://www.cppistons.com/products/sport_compact/
- JE: http://www.jepistons.com/
- Ross: http://www.rosspistons.com/
- Wiseco: http://www.wiseco.com/
- Arias: http://www.ariaspistons.com/
- Venolia: http://www.venolia.com/main.html
- Manley: http://www.manleyperformance.com/sc/
These piston manufacturers will make custom forged or hypereutectic pistons to order.
*Connecting rods;
- Crower: http://www.crower.com/index.shtml
- Eagle; http://www.eaglerod.com/
- Scat: http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/
- Manley: http://www.manleyperformance.com/sc/
- Pauter: http://www.pauter.com/4340_rods.htm
MIT-190-480-1334F[1.8]
These manufacturers will make custom H-beam or I-beam rods to order.
*Crankshaft;
- PowerZone: 4g15 stroker kit (1600cc}
- Scat and Eagle: Custom made to order.{Website locations listed above.}
*Strengthened Fasteners;
ARP: http://www.arp-bolts.com/
Main Stud Kit, ConRod Bolt Kit, Head Stud Kit
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pistons - http://www.mre-books.com/
Piston-to-Wall Clearance
The right clearance between the piston skirts and the cylinder walls is absolutely essential. If the
piston-to-wall clearance is too large, the pistons rock back and forth in the bore. This prevents the
rings from sealing the cylinder properly, and can crack the skirts as the piston slaps from side to
side. If the clearance is too small, the piston will literally stick in the bore, scuffing the skirts and
destroying the wall finish. There’s a thin line between too much and not enough, but providing the
correct running clearance pays dividends in both durability and horsepower.
[Wiseco]
What kind of piston-to-wall clearance can I run?
A.
The factors that affect this are cylinder wall thickness, whether the block is filled, the overall compression height of the piston, piston material and thickness, and whether a marine engine is to see fresh-water cooling. Most small blocks get .004 piston to wall clearance and most big blocks get .005 due to the use of our 2618 high-strength alloy. For heavy blower and nitrous applications, Wiseco recommends adding .001 to the standard clearance. Special note: Clearance numbers are obtained from measuring the largest diameter of the piston, typically at the bottom of the skirt. All measurements should be taken 90 degrees from the pin centerline.
Machining Recommendations via TDM Enterprises
Final thing, make sure who ever is maching the engine, does not go wild on piston to bore clearance. I can't recall if it was Blake or Niels, but one of them ran a stupid piston to bore clearance, because his machinist said it was turbocharged. Wiseco are well aware that these pistons are for a turbocharged engine, and give you a recommendation based on this. I think the one in question had 4.5thou or maybe 5 thou. Which is just stupid. I only ever run that size on 4G63/RB26 on engines that would have limited run in time, and are going to see very big rpm and boost. Generally, even for 600hp@wheels, 3thou is sufficient.
Suggest Clearance on Piston Kit Spec sheet is 0.0035 (0.08889999999999999mm)
Spec sheet 1: Bore 2.9920" = 75.9968mm (.5mm oversized)
Spec sheet 2: Bore 3.0120" = 76.5048mm (1mm oversized)
NOTE: Bore Size = 3.0120 & it is measured at the lowest point of the piston skit, or 1.300" from the bottom of the oil ring. Opposing side of the pin.
Gapping the rings - /Manuals/RingEndGap.pdf
Gapping the rings - /Manuals/RingEndGap.pdf
What grit hone job? http://www.enginehones.com/technical.html
What GRIT should I order?
Hone grit is one of those topics that will vary vastly from OEM manufacturer, ring designer to professional engine builder and will depend on how bad the cylinder wear is and whether a deglaze will do the job . If you have a poor condition bore with rust or deep grooves you will need to use a 120 grit hone to remove the rust and remove the deep grooves. Then follow up with the appropriate grit depending on ring application. For a basic deglaze to refresh the engine just use the grit depending on ring type. EngineHones.com has built several engine mules (our guys race too!) to investigate the grit question with on-track results. The table below which was derived from our engines, ring manufactures and technical literature. Our best seller to commercial engine rebuilders and power-sports shops is the 240 grit hone. Our guidelines are as follows:
Iron Cylinder Ring Type:
OEM Iron rings: 180 or 240 grit
Chrome rings: 240 or 320 grit
Moly Rings: 320 or 400 grit
Plasma Rings: 320 or 400 grit
not sure ring type: 240 grit
Manufacturers Recommendation:
Hastings: 240 grit
Akerly & Childs (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Akerly & Childs (Moly): 400 grit
Perfect Circle (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Perfect Circle (Moly): 400 grit
Speed Pro Hellfire (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Total Seal (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Total Seal (Moly): 320-400 grit
Harley Davidson(stock): 320 grit
Wiseco (chrome top): 320 grit
Mahle (Moly/Chome top): 280 grit
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Main Studs - ARP 207-5401 Main Stud Kit
- 2.0L (4G63) DOHC (2007 & earlier)
ARP main studs are manufactured from 8740 chrome moly steel, heattreated in-house to 200,000 psi tensile strength, and precision J-form threads rolled after heat-treat to create a fastener that has threads 2000% stronger than others. All kits come complete with hardened parallel-ground washers and aerospace quality nuts. Reduce crankshaft flex and main cap fretting with these premium quality main studs. Don’t settle for anything less than the best!
http://arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_torque_us.shtml
INSTALLATION METHOD FOR MAIN STUD KITS /207-5401.pdf
200,000 PSI 10 mm Diameter
1. To ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings, clean ALL threads in the block. Chase the threads if necessary with ARP Thread Chaser.
2. Clean and inspect all hardware prior to installation. Look for obvious defects or shipping damages, plus proper fit, length and dimension.
3. Screw the studs into the block “HAND TIGHT ONLY”.
NOTE: LOCTITE MAY BE USED IF A PERMANENT MOUNTING OF THE STUDS IS PREFERRED. THE FASTENERS, HOWEVER, MUST BE TORQUED PRIOR TO THE LOCTITE SETTING UP.
4. Install the main caps and check for binding or misalignment.
5. Lubricate the stud threads, nuts and washers with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT. Then install the washers and the nuts onto the studs and tighten them hand tight. ARP recommends using the ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT that is provided with each kit as opposed to motor oil. This is due to higher friction on the studs as well as inconsistencies in the clamping force of the fasteners when motor oil or other low quality lubricants are used. PRELOAD (TORQUE) RECOMMENDATIONS
6. Following the manufacturers recommended torque sequence tighten the nuts in three equal steps to 60 ft lbs with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.
FOOTNOTE: When changing from factory fasteners to high strength fasteners, clamping force and tolerances will change, therefore it will be necessary to check the main bearing bores for proper size and out of round condition after installation of the studs and align hone the cylinder block if necessary. The main bores should always be align honed using the same fasteners and lubricant which will be installed during final engine assembly at the recommended preload.
Universal Torque Specs
http://arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_torque_us.shtml
Listed here are the general torque recommendations for most ARP fasteners. Recommended torque is equal 75% of the fastener’s yield strength. Simply read down to the correct fastener size, then across to find the torque value for your application. Always lubricate the fasteners prior to applying torque to ensure accurate readings.
NOTE: The torque values represented here are intended to be for general information only, not for specific installations. On specific installations, where supplied instructions deviate from the torque values listed here, always follow the specific instructions packaged with each kit. Find the instructions for your kit here.
U.S. STANDARD TORQUE VALUES
Recommended Torque to Achieve Optimum Preload (Clamping Force)
10mm
Torque ARP lube (ft-lbs) - Preload (lbs)
: 54 - 9,970
:170,000/180,000PSI (1,171 Nmm2)
: 62 - 11,305
:190,000/200,000PSI (1,309 Nmm2)
: 70 - 12,640
:220,000PSI (1,515 Nmm2)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Head Studs - ARP Custom Spec - Oversized
Info via TDM Enterprises
- Block drilled and tapped (I would recommend doing this by machine. Worst case scenario, mount and level the block on a drill press. Drill and tap it with the tap in the drill, turn it by hand. That way it will keep it perfectly straight to the block.)
- Head drilled to suit larger stud.
- Oil passage on the head machined to feed head. The stock oil feed is around one of the head studs, you need to open the passage to suit the larger stud. Very simple, can be done easily with a dremel.
Oil port mod is common on the 4G63 e.g. /4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html
"I have found out a restriction can occur when excessive milling of the head has been done.
Resulting in low/poor oil flow through the cylinder head that can cause lifter tic, cam tower gaulding, and in some cases on turbo engines that feed the turbo oil from a port on the head, to cause the turbo to fail."
INSTALLATION METHOD FOR HEAD STUD KITS
Part Number: 201-4302 Application: BMW 2.5L-3.2L (M50/S50US/S52US) Inline 6-cyl
1. To ensure proper thread engagement and accurate torque readings, clean ALL threads in the block. Chase if necessary with ARP Thread Chaser, part number 912-0003 (M10 X 1.5).
2. Clean and inspect all hardware prior to installation. Look for obvious defects or shipping damages, plus proper fit, length and dimension.
3. If the cylinder head studs protrude into a water jacket, lubricate the block threads of the studs with ARP THREAD SEALER.
4. Screw studs into the block “HAND TIGHT ONLY”.
NOTE: LOCTITE MAY BE USED IF A PERMANENT MOUNTING OF THE STUDS IS PREFERRED. THE FASTENERS, HOWEVER, MUST BE TORQUED PRIOR TO THE LOCTITE SETTING UP.
5. Install the cylinder head(s) and check for binding or misalignment.
6. Lubricate the stud threads, nuts and washers with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT. Then install the washers and the nuts onto the studs and tighten them hand tight. ARP recommends using the ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT that is provided with each kit as opposed to motor oil. This is due to higher friction on the studs as well as inconsistencies in the clamping force of the fasteners when motor oil or other low quality lubricants are used.
PRELOAD (TORQUE) RECOMMENDATIONS
7. Following the manufacturers recommended torque sequence tighten the nuts in three equal steps to 85 ft lbs with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.
Max Length 4.515"
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Head Studs - OEM
MD355550 - AJUSA 81030700 Bolt cylinder head / set 10 pcs /
Cylinder Head Bolts Set Proton/Mitsubishi ELRING 004.260
AJUSA 80032200
BGA BK3394
CORTEC O016813B
ELRING 00426 / 004.260
FAI Au... B1825
MITSUBISHI MD355550
TRISCAN 984204
Application & Descripition
MITSUBISHI
Thread Size M9
Thread Pitch [mm] 1,25
Length [mm] 101
Stretch Bolts
Bolt Head-/Nut Design
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Bearings - /rcolt-rebuild-pick-list-part-numbers.html
Conrod bearings - 4B1130 - OE P# MD143090 - AE Clevite CB1588AL(4)
Mitsubishi 4G15 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 3v 381
Mitsubishi 4G17 1343cc Inline4 SOHC 2v 380
Mitsubishi G13B 1298cc Inline4 SOHC 2v 387
Mitsubishi G15B 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 3v 386
Main Bearings - 5M1124 (Half Groove) - OE P# MD147999 - AE Clevite MS2075P **
Hyundai G4AJ 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 2v 257
Hyundai G4DJ 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 3v 257
Mitsubishi 4G15 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 3v 381
Mitsubishi 4G17 1343cc Inline4 SOHC 2v 380
Mitsubishi G13B 1298cc Inline4 SOHC 2v 387
Mitsubishi G15B 1468cc Inline4 SOHC 3v 386
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Stroked - /jasma-racing-crankshaft-stroker.html
Transplant this JASMA racing stroker cranks into your powerplant and get ready to pump out the power.Features:
Heat treated steel
Nitrided harden
Full flow oiling
Profiled counterweights
Machined for lightness
Micro-polished to exacting tolerances.
Straight shot and chamfer oil holes
Large fillet radius on all journals
Precious ground, micro polished, balanced & magnaflued
Cross-Drilled holes for best rod journal lubrication
Balanced crankshaft
Greater torque and horsepower
Similar to original 4G13/15 main and rod journal sizes
Rod journal 42mm
Main journal diameter 48mm
Stroke 87mm
Weight 11.7kg
Conversion to 1.6 liter
Note :
Use standard size 4G13/4G15 main & con rod bearing.
U may select to use standard 4G13/4G15 con rod or standard waja 4g18 1.6 con rod.
Piston 4G13/4G15 cannot be use. U may use waja 4G18 1.6 standard piston.
Original 4G13/4G15 flywheel can be fitted in nicely using all original bolts.
Original 4G13/4G15 crankshaft stroke 82mm.
Main bolt tightening crank pulley to crankshaft still using original 4G13/4G15.
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